StevenGuthmiller

That's what I was thinking. Steve

Nothing wrong with doing something like a gasser with a rare kit in my opinion, just as long as you don't hack the body up. Once you chop them up they're forever lost. You can't go back from that without a whole butt load of work, if at all. Steve

Thanks Keith. It's always a little regrettable knowing that the interior that you spent so much time on will be hidden inside of a hardtop body, but I so enjoy the ride! After all, I guess the point of modeling is the adventure of the build and not so much who's going to see what at the end. I've begun to take on the attitude that "Nobody's ever gonna see it" is just an excuse for mediocrity. Steve

Think I'm creeping up on the finish line for this interior. Just need to add the door panels to the interior floor, then dash, front seats and door locks. Steve

Ordered one on ebay yesterday. Cost a little more, but I should only have to wait for about a week for it to arrive. Steve

I still use spray cans for a great deal of my projects, but I use my airbrush for bodies, mainly because the color pallet from MCW and Scale Finishes is endless. There's nothing I hate more than being limited in my color choices. Tamiya has a large variety of colors, but their choices still pale in comparison to what is available from the others. Plus, Tamiya paints are just as expensive, if not more so, and it's not available around here anyway, so regardless of what I use, I have to order it. Another positive of airbrush paint is storage. 1 or 2 oz. jars take up a lot less space than rattle cans. Steve

It is embossing powder guys. I just use white Elmer's glue thinned slightly with a little water and then I pour on the powder heavily, shake it around to cover everything evenly, and then pour off the excess. In this particular instance, the powder was slightly transparent, showing a little but of shine in the background from the glue once it dried, so I gave the whole tub a light shot of Duplicolor black primer to even up the sheen. Steve

Well, there goes my credibility. Oh wait! Maybe not. You might want to clean your glasses before you challenge someone's integrity. Steve

Thank fellas! I believe that I have all of the interior parts ready for assembly. Steve

Johan did the full sized Darts from 1960-1962. Otherwise, no darts were made in styrene until the Revell ‘68. Steve

1963 Dart. 1966 Dart. Steve

Well, that’s the great thing about taking on these kinds of modifications. You learn so much by taking the plunge and they just get better with each successive attempt. I’m just really happy to see that there are others doing this sort of thing, especially with interiors. These old kits deserve this kind of attention, and this way I get to see what they “should” look like without having to do them all myself! ?? Steve

Wow!! That interior is fantastic!! Steve

Welcome from yet another Minnesotan Ryan! Started in Wells MN, spent 30 years in Rochester, and now in Hawley, between Moorhead and Detroit Lakes. Steve

As far as I'm concerned, those are the only cars that ever existed! Steve

Welcome Riley. It's always good to see some young blood coming into the hobby! Steve

Be careful with storing models in an attic. It can get hot enough to ruin them pretty easily. Steve

I display mine as well, but here’s an idea so that you can keep enjoying the hobby without filling up your house with models. Begin concentrating on adding a lot more detail to your projects. I used to crank out models at a rate of about 1 every month. Since I began adding a lot more detail, doing a lot more chassis and engine swaps, and doing more interior upgrades and scratch building, my production has slowed to about 1 every six months to a year. I still get to enjoy the hobby just as much if not more, and I don’t wind up with a ton of stuff that I have to figure out what to do with. The true joy of modeling is the journey, not so much the end result. Steve

I love it!! Never been much of fan of the Ford teardrop hoods, but aside from that, it’s phenomenal! I love that kind of stance! It just screams aggression to my eye. Steve

I would go as far as to say that I would think that MM Metalizer would be a poor primer, especially if you have to do any masking after paint. Some of the Testors paints make very poor primers because paint does not adhere well to them. I’ve had ample experience with using Testors “metallic silver”, “gold” and “copper”, and while they make a nice looking base for transparent enamels, the paint doesn’t stick to it worth a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. I can’t tell you how many paint jobs I ruined years ago when tape pulled the paint right off of the base coat. Something tells me that Metalizer would be no better as a primer. Just my guess. Anyway, I personally wouldn’t use it. Steve

That’s the way I do it for small items like badges and scripts. In my opinion, it works better than sanding. You have more control with a small conical swab and even a sharpened tooth pick dipped in thinner than you do with sand paper, and you don’t have the possibility of sanding through the foil itself. Steve

I had the opportunity to see the Roger Waters, "The Wall" concert twice when he came to Minnesota. Fantastic concert, even though Roger was the only original band member present. My top 4 albums in order. The Wall Animals Dark Side of the Moon Wish You Were Here And yes, I even enjoy some of the music on "The Final Cut". Steve

Don’t want to dictate what you should do, but I think it will work out better for you. Just speaking from a lot of BMF experience. Steve

Maybe, but my guess would be that they were just being kind. ? Steve

Not impressed. Looks bloated......kind of like a dead raccoon on the shoulder. Steve