StevenGuthmiller

That’s true for the most part, except in the case of Testors automotive “Lacquer System” paints, which were designed to be used with their lacquer primer and clear lacquer. But that’s all a moot point anyway as those paints are history. Steve

By the way, just from looking at your above pictures David, it appears to me that if these photos were taken after clear coat, you were exactly on the right track. It appears that the surface is fairly smooth, and with a few more light coats of clear and a little polishing you would have been exactly where you wanted to be. Steve

Nothing wrong with the paint or primer in this instance. That's exactly how it should react to Super Clean. The lacquer paint itself will be entirely unaffected by the stripper. Super Clean will only work in this circumstance by seeping it's way under the color and dissolving the primer. This causes the paint to come off in sheets, and the primer to just wash off. Perfectly natural and normal, and as a matter of fact, very desirable! If you have to strip a lacquer paint job and you have used a primer that is unaffected by the solution, you're SOL with most of these products used for removing paint. Steve

The problem is often that too many people have the impression that one coat of primer, one coat of paint and one coat of clear is all that's needed to get a beautiful paint job. That might work with some paints, but in my experience, Duplicolor paint requires a little more attention. First of all, the primer is a little hotter than many others, so light coats that get progressively heavier will work the best. You will also want to remember that more coats of primer are better than fewer because with the hot automotive lacquer to follow, you will want as much protection from crazing as possible. When putting on the color, several lighter coats are always better than 1 heavy one as well. One heavy coat is much more likely to eat through the primer to the plastic and craze it than several light coats, plus, building the color will add more richness to the color itself, not to mention, avoid some weird striations in the metallic particles with metallic paints. With Duplicolor clear, you will get much better results if you use several coats, followed by cutting and polishing. Each successive coat of clear will give you a bit more shine than achieved with just the previous coat. I use as many as 5 coats of clear, and then it still needs polishing to give a deep, rich shine. Too often, I feel like people are in too much of a hurry to spend the time required to get an exceptional paint job. Sometimes you have to put in the work if you want it to look like you "put in the work". Another thing to remember with Duplicolor lacquers is that like most automotive lacquers, they are designed as "base coat/clear coat" paints. In other words, they require clear for a gloss finish. You can polish a solid color without clear, but I wouldn't try it with a metallic. You are just as likely to end up with an irreparable mess than not. Steve

I'm assuming that you meant the '62 Dodge? I don't think the '63 Dodge Polara has been available since '63. Steve

As far as I know, the only place to purchase MCW paints is directly from them via their website. Personally, I’ve only used their lacquers. I wasn’t even aware of any ready to airbrush enamel, although I do know that they have recently begun selling brushable enamels in small jars. Steve

Here are a few shots of the finished Ed Fluck 1968 Dodge Coronet R/T hard top resin interior with a few additional scratch made parts added. Get them while you can fellas! Steve

Interior is finished. Steve

This is my point as well. If you really want to chop something up, there are a ton of old mangled kits out there that would make a good starting point that can be had for a fraction of the cost of a nice mint kit. In my mind it makes little sense to start with a pristine kit that might have a value of $100.00, or much more. Chop it all to heck, and now it's worth basically nothing. I understand that value is not everything, but if you want to guarantee that your successor is going to sell it for 25 cents at a garage sale or pitch it in the garbage, hack away. Just my opinion. Steve

That's what I was thinking. Steve

Nothing wrong with doing something like a gasser with a rare kit in my opinion, just as long as you don't hack the body up. Once you chop them up they're forever lost. You can't go back from that without a whole butt load of work, if at all. Steve

Thanks Keith. It's always a little regrettable knowing that the interior that you spent so much time on will be hidden inside of a hardtop body, but I so enjoy the ride! After all, I guess the point of modeling is the adventure of the build and not so much who's going to see what at the end. I've begun to take on the attitude that "Nobody's ever gonna see it" is just an excuse for mediocrity. Steve

Think I'm creeping up on the finish line for this interior. Just need to add the door panels to the interior floor, then dash, front seats and door locks. Steve

Ordered one on ebay yesterday. Cost a little more, but I should only have to wait for about a week for it to arrive. Steve

I still use spray cans for a great deal of my projects, but I use my airbrush for bodies, mainly because the color pallet from MCW and Scale Finishes is endless. There's nothing I hate more than being limited in my color choices. Tamiya has a large variety of colors, but their choices still pale in comparison to what is available from the others. Plus, Tamiya paints are just as expensive, if not more so, and it's not available around here anyway, so regardless of what I use, I have to order it. Another positive of airbrush paint is storage. 1 or 2 oz. jars take up a lot less space than rattle cans. Steve

It is embossing powder guys. I just use white Elmer's glue thinned slightly with a little water and then I pour on the powder heavily, shake it around to cover everything evenly, and then pour off the excess. In this particular instance, the powder was slightly transparent, showing a little but of shine in the background from the glue once it dried, so I gave the whole tub a light shot of Duplicolor black primer to even up the sheen. Steve

Well, there goes my credibility. Oh wait! Maybe not. You might want to clean your glasses before you challenge someone's integrity. Steve

Thank fellas! I believe that I have all of the interior parts ready for assembly. Steve

Johan did the full sized Darts from 1960-1962. Otherwise, no darts were made in styrene until the Revell ‘68. Steve

1963 Dart. 1966 Dart. Steve

Well, that’s the great thing about taking on these kinds of modifications. You learn so much by taking the plunge and they just get better with each successive attempt. I’m just really happy to see that there are others doing this sort of thing, especially with interiors. These old kits deserve this kind of attention, and this way I get to see what they “should” look like without having to do them all myself! ?? Steve

Wow!! That interior is fantastic!! Steve

Welcome from yet another Minnesotan Ryan! Started in Wells MN, spent 30 years in Rochester, and now in Hawley, between Moorhead and Detroit Lakes. Steve

As far as I'm concerned, those are the only cars that ever existed! Steve

Welcome Riley. It's always good to see some young blood coming into the hobby! Steve