StevenGuthmiller

I’ve probably got a bunch that I’ll never use, but I won’t waste a penny shipping it anywhere. Steve

Seriously, if you’re going to start airbrushing anyway, ditch the Model Master garbage and get some “real” paint. why mess around with all of this decanting and thinning nonsense when you can get the best model car paint on the planet from MCW or Scale Finishes ready to spray straight from the bottle? The product puts anything that Testors ever made to shame, you can get virtually any color that you can imagine, and you don’t have to jump through all of these ridiculous hoops to get there. Oh, by the way, Testors spray enamels?........even worse!! Steve

Huh......I guess I should have got something for her. ? Steve

‘72 Chevy pickup hood should work. Steve

Delete.

This is sitting in the parking lot of the B&B that the wife and I are spending the night in for our anniversary. ?

Boy do I agree with that! It always interests me how often I see these rants about so called “terrible products” when more often than not it’s the guy behind the wheel that’s the problem. Do we ever stop to think before we start denigrating a product that we have had trouble with that it might not be the product, but the application of it? Well, this is an apparent and perfect example of that. There’s nothing wrong with Tamiya tape. I use it all of the time, and I use lacquer almost exclusively. Steve

You can make pretty much any tire fit virtually any kit if you’re not afraid to do a little adjusting or modification. Sometimes you might have to do a little filing and sanding, sometimes you might have to add some material somewhere. In any case, wheel and tire swaps are probably going to be one of the simplest modifications that you will ever attempt. Just go for it, and don’t let it intimidate you. Steve

I guess we are if we feel the need to respond to every post. ? This is one part of Facebook that drives me up the wall. If I post a dozen pictures in a particular post in one of my “groups”, inevitably I will get a dozen guys that will add “likes” to each individual photo! ? Uuh, is this really necessary, or is it just designed to pacify the “bean counters” who can only justify their existence by the number of likes that they get?! I pay zero attention to “likes” on Facebook, and very little attention to them here as well, especially when you don’t know who they’re from. In my opinion, the anonymity factor makes them completely meaningless. Steve

Already did it. Steve

I was just posting this old Edsel build on a few Facebook groups and I thought it might be time for it to make another appearance here. An AMT 1959 Edsel Corsair. Steve

I agree. Cut a fresh edge on Tamiya tape. You'll get a very neat, crisp line. Be certain that you burnish the edges down well. Steve

I decided to skip the "clutter". Although, if I can find something that reasonably resembles a tape case, I might throw it in the back seat. Steve

Any photos on what you're referring to? I'm not able to find anything. I think I know what you mean, but I'm having a hard time finding reference photos. I'm assuming that the front mounting brackets should just be flipped 90 degrees to the front? This is the best that I could find. Steve

Well, as mentioned before, this interior was never intended to be replicated for sale. It was only intended to be for my personal use, so while I wanted something closer to correct for a ‘68 hardtop, I only took it so far. If I had known from the onset that it was going to be offered to the public, I might have spent a little more time to make it more correct. On the other hand, adding one more pleat is something that I probably wouldn’t have bothered with even in that case. It would have been a lot of work for a very minimal impact. Steve

Mine is pretty self explanatory. ? Although I have used “Goofy 62” on some other venues. Goofy was a school nickname and 62 is the year that I was born. Steve

Yeah, those prices are just plain stupid. I can live without. Steve

Be patient guys. Ed is digging himself out of a hole, but he has assured me that he is working as fast as possible to fill all of the orders for this kit. Steve

They ARE the original MPC seats. They've just been cleaned up and reworked. The molded in seat belts were removed, new seat buttons were added, the bucket seat backs were dressed up, and some of the trim and pleating was rescribed for better definition. The bases of the front seats were reshaped a little and new seat tracks were added. The back seat was widened to better represent a hard top seat. The rear seat is not entirely correct as the seat pattern should carry all of the way out to the edge of the seat, but that modification would have required more attention than I was willing to put into it. Steve

Thanks guys! As I was finishing up the rear axle mods, I was reminded by fellow member Frank Filosa, (Dodge Driver) that it would be correct to add torque boxes to the frame for a Hemi car. I've said it many times, but this is precisely the reason why I like doing protracted build threads! I am by no means an expert on a lot of this stuff, and very often, people who are following along will catch things and make suggestions. I might not always apply every suggestion, but it sure is nice to have the facts as the build progresses rather than when it's finished and too late! I appreciate the suggestion immensely Frank!! Thank you!! It wasn't too bad to add them. Might have taken an extra hour or so. Steve

Well, if you have any more '61 Caddys that you don't want to deal with, give me a holler! Steve

There were a lot of "gaps" to fill on the Johan '60 Plymouth wagon! There aren't even any front inner fender wells!! Have fun filling those! This kit was no doubt a modified promo.......and not modified very well! But, we're modelers. If we really want a '60 Plymouth wagon on your shelf, we'll figure out a way to deal with these issues, right? Steve

Thanks everyone. I've moved on now to the chassis, and the only real issue with using the Revell Charger chassis under the MPC Coronet is the wheel base. In the real world, the '68 Coronet and Charger shared the same 117 inch wheel base, but things don't always mesh in 1/25th scale I guess. The Charger chassis fits pretty well with a little bit of trimming, and a tiny bit of grinding is necessary to eliminate a little bit of real wheel well "protrusion" at the front of the rear wheel opening. Easy fix! A little more involved is the fact that the rear axle sits too far back, and is too narrow for the rear wheels to look right in the openings. That, and the fact that for the position that the chassis is required to sit in the body due to interior location, the entire rear axle needed to be moved slightly forward, widened and raised to look right. I started this operation by trimming the front off of the springs and moving them the correct distance forward and then created new front attachment points. The rear chassis spring location blocks then needed to be removed and I covered the holes with some simple "plates". Next, new rear shackles were made to bring the height up to where I wanted it. Then the original rear axles were removed at the springs and new longer axles were added to widen the track. It's probably a tad higher, and the rear track a little wider than an actual 1:1, but I wanted it to have an aggressive stance, as well as to fill the wheel opening. I've always had the impression that a wider track almost always looks much better than too narrow. Anyway, I think I have all of the rear axle mods done now, although later mods will no doubt be needed for shocks and the drive shaft, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Steve

Nice work Rich!! Steve

Love it! I'm still kicking myself in the backside for not getting one of these kits from Modelhaus before they folded. Steve