-
Posts
15,071 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller
-
I like that!! But you're going to need to call a wrecker to get it off of those rocks!! Nice job! Steve
-
Here’s an idea for you. Get a gallon of Super Clean degreaser/cleaner, and fill a large enough plastic container to fully submerge a model car body. If your planning on using enamel paint thinned with enamel thinner anyway, it will strip back to clean plastic in literally minutes, so you can get one model car body, practice on it, drop it in the Super Clean for an hour, rinse it off and practice again. You can literally practice on the same body a thousand times. The Super Clean will never harm the plastic, and enamel strips extremely quickly, easily and cleanly. Problem solved. Oh, and by the way, don’t waste your time waiting for a response from Rustoleum. It’s a total red herring. Nobody, and I mean NOBODY, weighs their paint! Steve
-
Thanks everyone! I think I'm ready to move on to the body work. I'll finish assembling the chassis at a later time. Steve
-
I suppose that's a valid point. But you can't begrudge the frustration that some of us feel when an individual comes here and pretends that he actually wants advice when it's become pretty obvious to all of us that he really doesn't. I suppose that it should be a hint when his "questions" are 6 paragraphs long. I just wish this guy would stop goofing around with sending companies emails, watching YouTube videos and asking dumb questions and get his back side into the shop and start doing something! Then maybe he would have some valid questions to ask! I'm really starting to believe that he has no intention of ever doing anything model related, other than to come on this forum and irritate the hell out of everyone!! If I ever see an actual "progress" post from this individual, I'll be extremely surprised!! Steve
-
You’re really overthinking this whole subject, big time. Somewhere you got the idea that painting a model car with enamel is rocket science........it’s not even close! weighing your paint??........be serious! Mix some paint and thinner until it’s roughly the consistency of whole milk and test spray. If it’s too thick, add more thinner, and vice versa. Good lord, if I had to think this hard about spraying a little bit of paint, I’d quit building and take up fishing or golf! My suggestion?, use lacquer thinner. Any garden variety lacquer thinner will do if you prime first with a good lacquer primer. (I’m still trying to figure out what you have against primer) Use enamel thinner or mineral spirits if you don’t mind waiting for three months for your paint to dry! ? Steve
-
Actually, the brackets aren’t holding much. They’re just there for looks more than anything. They are just thin strips of aluminum cut from an aluminum soda can and bent to shape. Steve
-
I'm doing my best to take notes from them! Steve
-
-
My thoughts on your issue. I gave up on Testors clear lacquers, at least for bodies, some time ago due to issues with it. My recurring problem was cracking that sometimes wouldn’t begin to take place until days later, and would often continue to get worse as time went on, so I gave it the old heave-ho. As far as the tape difficulties go, this is exactly why, along with other problems, why I never mask over a paint job with tape, especially a standard masking tape. If I need to mask, I use only Tamiya tape around the perimeter where it will contact the paint, and mask the rest with masking paper. This has saved me a great deal of grief over the years. Steve
-
Well, it’s supposed to be only a few months old, so I would hope that there wouldn’t be much rust. ? Steve
-
Glad to hear that you're satisfied! I will offer this insight. I noticed on the set that I received from Ed, and it looks to be the case on other photos that I have seen of these parts, that the interior bucket appears to have a tendency to bend a little. The floor might have a slight "crown" making the rear shelf curve down slightly and cause a gap between the rear of the tub and the back of the door panels. This is natural with resin parts, so it's easy to fix with a little warm water and light bending. Just thought that it would be a good idea to let people know that this might need your attention. Steve
-
-
Perfect! Thank you! Steve
-
I could, but my 1:1 is missing the air conditioning unit at the moment. Steve
-
Thanks. I'll probably use that for my starting point. What ever I use will likely need a bunch of mods to make it look right. Steve
-
I assume that this is the same set up as the '69 Pontiacs would have had? Planning on a highly detailed version of a '69 Grand Prix in the future, and I planned on raiding the '70 Monte Carlo for a good portion of the chassis and engine bay parts. Steve
-
Nah, not so much. If I had to build 50 different configurations of a '32 Ford, I might have to open a vein! Steve
-
At least for me, the prospect of working on an unusual project is what keeps me interested. Since I began building basically nothing except vintage kits some years ago, my interest has remained high. If I had to build nothing but modern kits, I would have gotten bored and quit years ago. I went on a ten year hiatus back in the 90s for this very reason. Steve