StevenGuthmiller

Well, it’s supposed to be only a few months old, so I would hope that there wouldn’t be much rust. ? Steve

Glad to hear that you're satisfied! I will offer this insight. I noticed on the set that I received from Ed, and it looks to be the case on other photos that I have seen of these parts, that the interior bucket appears to have a tendency to bend a little. The floor might have a slight "crown" making the rear shelf curve down slightly and cause a gap between the rear of the tub and the back of the door panels. This is natural with resin parts, so it's easy to fix with a little warm water and light bending. Just thought that it would be a good idea to let people know that this might need your attention. Steve

Time to make that chassis dirty! Steve

Perfect! Thank you! Steve

I could, but my 1:1 is missing the air conditioning unit at the moment. Steve

Thanks. I'll probably use that for my starting point. What ever I use will likely need a bunch of mods to make it look right. Steve

I assume that this is the same set up as the '69 Pontiacs would have had? Planning on a highly detailed version of a '69 Grand Prix in the future, and I planned on raiding the '70 Monte Carlo for a good portion of the chassis and engine bay parts. Steve

Nah, not so much. If I had to build 50 different configurations of a '32 Ford, I might have to open a vein! Steve

At least for me, the prospect of working on an unusual project is what keeps me interested. Since I began building basically nothing except vintage kits some years ago, my interest has remained high. If I had to build nothing but modern kits, I would have gotten bored and quit years ago. I went on a ten year hiatus back in the 90s for this very reason. Steve

By "finishing the rear end", do you mean reshaping the rear quarter panels? That's the only thing that will ever save these kits in my opinion. Steve

I don’t know. The only time that I strain mine is right before I dispose of it. But I suppose that there could very well be some validity to the theory that cleaning it out might extend its usefulness. Steve

It just has one light coat of white primer as a guide coat. Still has a lot of work to be done, but I got a start on it anyway. Steve

I don’t know which particular cars offered them, but I have often seen what’s called “salt and pepper” carpet in some cars. Steve

The thing that I like about the metallic powder is that it gives more definition than monotone powder. Once all of the rest of the interior parts are installed, it’s hard to see a monotone powder. With the metallic powder, the metallic in it gives the illusion of more texture when the interior is completely assembled. At least that’s the perception that I get. Steve

I started one of these projects many years ago, but opted to do it as a convertible. You can save the trim if you're careful. Steve

I've heard that some guys will do all of their primer paint and clear, sometimes multiple coats of each, all in one day! Personally, that makes me a little nervous, but it is apparently possible. Steve

You can get a lot of embossing powder in many different colors, relatively cheaply if you look around for it. Look for sets of various colors from "Hampton Art". I have a set of solid colors, and a set of metallic. Both work nicely for carpet. If you look around a bit, you should be able to find one of these sets of 16 different colors for between $15.00 and $20.00. Sounds like a lot, but a little bottle of this stuff will last you forever! I don't know for certain, but if I had to guess, I would say that one bottle probably has enough powder in it to do 8 or 10 models. with a set of 16 colors, that's a whole bunch of models!! You can paint over the powder as well, but with a couple of sets of this stuff, there's rarely any need to. Here are a couple done with metallic powder straight from the jar. This one was done with black powder, but it looked a little thin so I threw a thin coat of black primer over it. Steve

I agree. I wouldn't fret too much about the accuracy of colors like this. As Richard said, white is white, and I will add that bright red is bright red for the most part. As for the engine? If it were mine, I'd just pick a light blue. From what I'm seeing online, who knows what the actual engine color should be. Steve

You do some nice work! Welcome to the forum! Steve

The parts look fine. Looks like just some staining from the undercoat. Paint away. Steve

Thanks guys. Yes, it’s Alclad. ”White Aluminum” on the mufflers and a custom mix of Alclad for the steel on the pipes. Steve

I do the same with my rattle cans. Steve

Getting a few of the details picked out. Had a fairly productive day for once! Steve

I don't know, maybe I don't use my Super Clean as much as others do, but I've got about a half a gallon in a rectangular plastic food container and I haven't changed it in at least a year and a half, probably longer. It's most likely beginning to weaken, but it still works fine, even for removing lacquer paint. Steve

The color is a correct Plymouth gold, but it's from 1967 rather than '68. A little paler than I was shooting for, but I wanted to stick with MCW paint on this one. I could have gotten the correct '68 color from Scale Finishes, but I really prefer the less "intrusive" metallic in the MCW. I think I'll like it in the end. Steve