StevenGuthmiller

I'm not so much worried about the shine as I am durability. I like to detail my chrome parts in a certain way that requires a tough finish. If this stuff can't withstand that, it will not work for me. Steve

Make that 3. I would be happy to buy one, mostly because it's something different. But, my guess is that we will get another Camaro instead. Steve

How do people dig up these decades old threads!? Steve

I figure, what's there to "deal with?" As long as I'm healthy, I have everything. My age is irrelevant. Steve

Okay. My mistake. Steve

Isn't Alsa a British company? I saw their prices in pounds. The kit would be shipped from California if I bought it on ebay. Probably faster shipping? Steve

Ok Joe. I'm going to take your word for it. I might just give it a try. I have been in the process of getting a bunch of parts ready for re-plating, but it has become such a hassle contacting individuals that do it that I'm starting to get discouraged about the whole process. Chrome Tech is no more, LMK is hard to even find any information about, and I absolutely hate having to call or email people to find information about their services. I have emailed GT Kustom Khrome several times in the past year, and have never received a response. I have been searching for a viable alternative for some time and have not been entirely impressed with Alclad, Molotow, or any of the chrome paints out there. As a rule, they don't particularly do a good job of mimicking a true chrome finish, and there are always major durability questions. If this stuff does what I hope it will do, it will be worth the $140.00. I can order it on ebay for the same price. Of course, there is a $20.00 shipping cost as well! I will be contacting you to chew you out if I hate it! Steve

It costs me an average of around $80.00 to have the basic parts chromed, (bumpers, grilles, hubcaps) for 6-8 kits! If this stuff works as advertised, is durable and able to do 100 kits worth of chrome parts, I'm all in! My main questions are: Is it tough enough to withstand handling and detailing like washes and cleaning like real chrome? Does the base need to go on so heavy that it obliterates detail? What is the difference between this and a product like Alclad? If it is comparable to Alclad, I will spend the extra money to have the large parts vacuum plated. I would like to see some results and hear some testimonials from modelers before I take a $140.00 leap! Steve

There is ALWAYS room for improvement, no matter what the task. This is part of what makes modeling so much fun! Watching your own progression. My interiors were sorely lacking for many years and I just recently began focusing more attention on them. They are still not perfect by any stretch, but I feel that they have improved a great deal. Steve

Unfortunately, I have to agree with you there. I can't recall painting parts on the sprue EVER in my modeling career.......even when I was 10 years old. Steve

I do as well. Nearly every part that I paint has had some sort of work done on it, (usually at least mold lines removed) so priming shows me if there are any more issues to address before the paint goes on. In my opinion, removing as many mold lines as possible is a big first step to a realistic as possible finished product. I can't begin to count how many highly detailed engine compartments I have seen with a big mold line still running across the top of the radiator! Steve

Ain't that the truth! I can't remember ever seeing anything uglier! Not everybody has an eye for automotive styling, and this is the proof. Steve

Paul Hettick is doing the '66 Ford wagon. No '67s as far as I know. Steve

My kids know all about it. They're just not interested! Steve

This is just Testors primer. When you're doing this kind of extensive modification, it helps a great deal to prime the parts to make it easier to see how things are turning out. Plus the fact that I will often use automotive lacquers on at least some of the parts. Steve

I agree......but not likely. It's funny, but when you think about it, there are ZERO currently available, (non-vintage, annual) Plymouth fury kits! You would think that one of Plymouth's historically most popular models would be represented by at least one model year! The same unfortunate trend is evident with many other very popular models. ( Dodge Polara, Pontiac Bonneville, any large Olds, Buick or Mercury, and forget about Cadillac or Lincoln) Luckily, I have at least one example of every Johan Fury between the years of 1959 and 1967. Get them while you can, because it's quite obvious that NOBODY has had any interest in producing a Fury of any kind since Johan's demise. Working on a '65 Fury right now! Steve

Thank you! PM sent back at ya! Steve

I'm going with "Medium Turquoise" for the body with a black vinyl top. The interior will be a slightly lighter or darker shade of turquoise. Steve

I'll sure take them if you're offering! I've got the wheels figured out, but I'm still on the fence about tires. These pad printed tires would surely make my life easier. Steve

Last night, Pork and Peanut Satay. Tonight, Chicken with Fig Sauce, and Brown Rice and Peas with Brown Butter. Steve

Thanks Scott! A little more progress on the firewall. Steve

A usual, I just couldn't leave well enough alone and decided that the firewall was not going to cut it. The thought of adding the "torsion bar" hood springs entered my mind and I started tinkering with the idea of doing them so that the hood could be displayed opened or closed. It really doesn't look to be a difficult task, but the heater box from the '64 Dodge was too prominent and would interfere with their function. The incorrect firewall was starting to bug me anyway, so the modifications have begun. I thought about simply cutting out a section of the Dodge firewall and transplanting the relevant section of the original Johan piece, but decided that it would be more fun to modify the Dodge one to replicate the Plymouth. This way I will have room for the hood bars, and I can add all of my own wiring for a little more realism. I started by grinding out the heater box and replacing it with a piece of plastic sheet. Then I added the upper and lower "ridge" detail. The "blister" for the master cylinder was also added, but I think that I'll replace it. It needs to be a little taller. I will cut the washer motor "well" from the Johan firewall and transplant it, as well as add more various bumps and bolts. More later. Steve

Thanks Gene. Interiors have become one of my downfalls! I find myself spending more and more time trying to perfect some of them. The '65 Plymouth Fury that I'm working on now has gone even a step further with removing those darned convertible top wells!! But it went better than I had expected. Steve

I've been using basically the same method for quite some time. Often, the reflectors can be the more difficult part of the equation. Steve

AMT or SMP originally made them in 1961. Lindberg did the SS hard top and convertible a decade ago, which has now been folded into "Round 2". I believe it is currently being sold in AMT packaging. Steve