StevenGuthmiller

You and me both!! Two of my favorite recipes are my Gumbo, and New Orleans BBQ shrimp. I could live on the BBQ shrimp! But you need "head on" shrimp for it to be really good, and needless to say, head on shrimp are a little hard to find 20 miles from the North Dakota border! The sauce consists of almost nothing other than Worcestershire sauce and butter! How can you go wrong!! Steve

I've seen sealed 30 year old kits that are also listed as "New". Steve

It might require a little bit of refinement, but it looks good enough for me. Steve

Not my genre, but I recognize a superb job when I see one! Terrific work! (Lost your radiator hose though) Steve

The sad part is, some unsuspecting fool will quite possibly not realize that the kit is being reissued and think he's getting a good deal on a vintage kit! Steve

Yes, there will be a gap. I have been contemplating this for some time. There was a gap between the door panel and the seat even before the modifications, due to the shape of the seat. Removing the top wells will increase that gap by about 2mm or so on each side, but I've decided that it won't be enough to warrant trying to figure out a way to widen the seat. The shape of the rear seat would make it difficult to find a place to widen it. I will be adding a slightly wider panel on either side of the seat something like the one that was already there. In this photo, you can see how the configuration looked prior to modification on the right side, and the added gap that will need to be addressed on the left. In my eye, it's not enough to justify figuring out a way to convincingly widen the seat. Keep in mind that the interior represented in this kit is correct for a Sport Fury anyway, and not a FuryIII, which is what the body represents. So short of a complete interior revamping, it will not be correct anyway. Steve

That's why were here. To voice are opinions. It's a forum: "a medium of open discussion or expression of ideas". Steve

I suppose that anything is possible William, but it would take a true and experienced scratch builder to basically make a body from scratch. There are no current kits available that even come close to the '65/'66 Fury body style. The Lindberg kits, and others, are suitable for pirating parts from for a project like this, but those usable parts are pretty much limited to chassis and engine parts merely because the chassis and engines were nearly identical in configuration between consecutive years. The body is another matter. Not only would a body have to be completely scratch built, but bumpers, grille, interior parts, etc. That would be a tall order for anyone, short of a 3D printer. Your best bet, outside of finding the original article, is to find someone who may be casting the Johan kit in resin. Steve

Absolutely! I would never be able to get any of this small detail work done without one. Steve

Again, thank you everyone! The snow is finally melting here, so with any luck, I might be able to get some outdoor shots within the next few weeks. Steve

No kidding! There's 12 minutes of my life that I'll never get back! Steve

The AMT '67 Impala looks pretty close. Steve

Hmmm, nothing good, huh? I can tell that you miss the bread. You listed it twice! Steve

Woof, Woof!!! Steve

Some more work on the interior. I have removed the bulk of the trim and have started to replace it. The pleated upholstery has been scribed deeper and shaped a bit This is some of the upholstery trim that will be sanded and painted the same color as the rest of the interior. Some chrome trim will be added later. I then began scratch building some arm rests. Steve

AMT '70 Monte Carlo? Steve

So far I'm pretty happy with how the door panels are working out! Steve

Got it. I might have to try it some time. It will save me having to come up with or make buckets. They look great on your Bonneville! Steve

Oh well, it was worth a try. I thought that they might look nice on my '65 Fury. Steve

Agreed. There are few nicer than the Lindberg '53 Ford. Steve

Caramelized onion and prosciutto tart with balsamic. Steve

I'm not quite following you. I get the lens casting part. Pressing the lens into the foil understandably makes a mold for the lens, but what do you do after taking the lens out? Do you just flip it over and glue it into the foil mold? Are you using lenses with the detail molded on the outside, or inside? Or are you just filling the mold and letting the surface of the lens stay smooth and letting the the ridges in the foil show through as your detail? Steve

Looks like a go on the cast wheel hubs! Steve

Same here. It was to the point for me 30 years ago, where I wouldn't paint anything in light colors because the Testors clear enamel yellowed so bad, and I never painted anything white because the Testors white enamel was atrocious! This, of course, was before I realized that there were other, and better paints on the planet other than Testors. Steve

What did you do for headlight buckets and lenses? Steve