StevenGuthmiller

Steve

Or, how about some posts of 427s in your models? Steve

Bingo! Steve

Looks great as far as I'm concerned. Dashboards in these old cars rarely matched the rest of the interior. They were usually within the same color family, but often the steering wheel and lower dash would be a slightly different color than the upper dash pad, and depending on the overall interior color, completely different from the rest of the upholstery. It's this kind of variation in color that can lend true realism to the finished product, rather than a monotone look. Steve

Testors lacquers have always been very mild. Not really lacquers in the real sense. I use Testors # 2949 "Transparent Black Window Tint" often. It says "lacquer" on the can, yet you spray it over bare plastic with no adverse affects. Steve

Great choices Tom! I will also use wider tires. I'm thinking copper with a black and copper interior for mine. Steve

Actually, there is very little modification needed for the '64 Dodge chassis to fit under the Johan '65/'66 Fury bodies. The wheel base was perfect! The only modifications required was a tiny bit of grinding, front and rear, to allow for bumper fit. Granted, there were a ton of mods required to get the chassis and interior to fit up into the body correctly. but no problems with the wheel base. The fender well/ firewall configuration on the Lindberg kits are incorrect for the Fury, but that's a whole other story. Steve

Thanks guys! Now I'm just trying to work out an idea for the hinge so that I don't have to prop the hood when it's in the open position. Some sort of track in the fender with a notch at the top and a pin in the hood hinge should work. Just need to work out the simplest solution. Steve

Very nice Andy! If this is true "Argyle Blue", you need to get some outdoor photographs! This is one of those colors that just glows in natural light. Steve

Strangely enough, I see these paint jobs at just about every show I attend. They're not all that uncommon. Personally, I really dislike them. But I appreciate the work involved and have a lot of respect for guys that do them well. Steve

Lot of free time on your hands? Steve

Unfortunately, the '66 is the wrong suspension configuration. It is a twin I beam. The '60 is a straight axle. But, as you say, the chassis might be close, minus the front suspension. Steve

The '63 Plymouth is a little less scary. It is much easier to find. Steve

Absolutely!! If you can't make a few bucks, it's not worth doing! People will pay for them if they want them bad enough. If not, tough cookies! Do without! Steve

Now that Easter is behind us, I have a bit more time to spend at the bench. Today, I spent a little time beginning to replace the firewall wiring. I also worked a bit on the hood hinge/spring arrangement. If all goes according to plan, I should be able to display the finished build with the hood opened, or closed. Steve

I was thinking, at one time, of using a similar hood scoop on my '65 Fury. I just couldn't bring myself to glue a scoop to such a rare kit! Steve

This is the one that appears to be the most correct for this car. Personally, I don't care for either of the others. Actually, I prefer no hood scoop at all. That is how I will finish mine. In my opinion, the scoop looks too busy. Without it, you get a much smoother, "sleeper" look. This is similar to how I will be doing mine. No scoop, and no wheel covers......minus the white walls. Steve

Hey, it was worth a shot! Steve

You go Tom! I started a very similar project some months ago, but got a little side tracked when I decided to correct the interior. It's still waiting in the wings, and I will hopefully get back to it in the not too distant future. I just have to give kudos to Lindberg for producing the '64 Belvedere and '64 Dodge 330 kits! While I have absolutely no use for either of them as a project, the chassis and engines are invaluable for those of us who need more detailed parts to put under our "good" Johan bodies. In the future I will need a whole bunch of them to finish a line of Johan Plymouth and Dodge kits including a '62 Dart convertible, '63 Polara convertible and '64 Polara hard top, and '62, '63, '64 and '66 Furys. I'm currently using one for my '65 Fury build. Steve

If you decide that you would rather not take on another project Al, I would certainly take it off of your hands! Steve

As a rule, I don't let these inconsistencies bother me either. Sometimes certain things just jump out at you. The wheel well openings and quarter window issues are something that I possibly would try to tackle, but the rear fender thing, I wouldn't mess with. Keep up the good work my friend! Steve

Great minds think alike! Steve

I just buff mine vigorously with a piece of cotton t-shirt. No polish is required if you burnish it well. A little Novus # 1 "Clean and Shine" at the end over the entire body is all that I use. Steve

The color looks great! There is just something about this AMT body that looks off to me outside of the aforementioned wheel well and quarter window openings. Could there be a problem with the length of the rear quarter panels in relation to the wheel wells? The dead on side shot almost makes it look like an altered wheel base car. The area behind the wheel looks too long to my eye. Steve

Looks nice! Personally, I would use a pale champagne gold for the dash and steering wheel, a darker gold embossing powder for the carpet and the almond for the upholstery. Steve