StevenGuthmiller

Yes Bruce, in this case the seat pattern is a decal from "Scale Motorsport" called "Boomerang Pattern". I use a drop of "Laser Bond" glue for my gauge faces. It gives more depth than clear paint. Steve

The same technique that I have used for years. It's sometimes referred to as the "foil under paint" technique, and it really doesn't require any particularly precise skill. There are several different ways of doing it, but the one that I have settled on that works best for me is to apply foil to the scripts just before the final coat or two of color. Apply the foil to the script cutting as close to the script as possible. Then you apply your final one or two coats of color. Then you simply dip a conical swab or sharpened tooth pick in lacquer thinner & carefully clean the paint from the foiled script. Once finished, you can clear coat over everything if you wish. Steve

Yeah, I'm pretty much lost as well. Steve

I use "Bare Metal Foil". The adhesive is already applied. Just cut it, and stick it! Steve

Just a couple more photos of today's progress. Got the headlights drilled out & ready for buckets & lenses. Interior is nearly finished except for a few minor details. Steve

I think you are referring to what has been come to be known as the "foil under paint" technique. The technique that you see here is useful for applications where a script needs to be moved from one spot to another, but it's pretty cumbersome for finishing a simple script on a model. There is no need to make a mold of the script, fill it, sand it, sand off the original, and fix it in place if it's going back where it originally came from. That is a whole lot of wasted effort. You can achieve wonderful results with the "foil under paint" technique if you are just looking for a way to finish scripts, and it is basically what you have described in your short post. There are different ways of doing it, but I prefer to put on the foil just prior to the final color coat. Then I apply the last color coat, let it dry & then clean off the script with a little lacquer thinner. Once this is done, you can leave it as is, or apply clear coats over the top of the color. A pretty simple technique. Steve

I love the tire site! Photos of all of them now so you can see what you're ordering. I'll be frequenting this site often! Steve

I wouldn't be surprised if this is one of those molds that was forever changed to make the '32 Chrysler Imperial roadster kit? If it was, you will never see this one again. Steve "UPDATE". I just checked on ebay and it's pretty obvious that these kits are all over the place.........and cheap! You can buy one right now for $30.00 or less. I saw at least 8 or 10 of them in this price range. The cheapest had a buy it now price of $14.99 for an unstarted kit. Why wait for a re-pop?

I'll just sum up my opinion this way. If there is an old kit that you really want, & would like to see re-popped, that means that there are examples of the originals out there, somewhere. If it's high on your list, go find one! Or you can sit around and whine until you're too old to build waiting for it to be reissued. Steve

The foiling is finished & the interior is getting close to finished. The nice part is, this is a curbside build, so once I'm done with the interior, there shouldn't be a whole lot left to do. Maybe finished before Christmas? The dash and steering wheel are basically done. Just have the floor to paint and carpet on the interior tub. Steve

It's nice to see a '49 Merc the way it looked from the factory on occasion. Nice work John! I'm guessing that your issue with the skirts has something to do with the rear wheels sticking out too far. My solution would be to either shorten the wheel backs or the rear axle itself to draw the wheels in a bit. Another tip worth trying to avoid any problems with gluing on the skirts is to apply them with a piece of standard masking tape on the inside of the body. This will not only eliminate any chance of getting glue where it will be seen, but will also make it a simple operation to remove the skirts later on if you should decide. I used tape to install the skirts on my '62 Ford. Steve

For me it would probably be the '23 Model T delivery van that I won in a raffle last year, and a Monogram 1/12th scale Mercedes 300 SL Gullwing. There are others that I picked up many, many years ago, but I rarely waste the money on a kit that I'm not interested in. I would rather spend $150.00 on an old vintage kit that I am really excited about, versus a half dozen modern kits that I have only nominal interest in. Steve

I agree with Can-Con. This is purely your opinion. I have zero interest in racing subjects & I'm fairly certain that I'm not the only one. Almost any stock kit can be modified relatively easily into a race car. Few race kits can be easily modified into a stock version. Steve

My wife makes almost exactly the same thing, only in a muffin tin. refrigerated biscuit dough, pizza sauce, cheese & usually Canadian bacon and pepperoni. Nice individual deep dish pizzas. We just had them on Halloween night. Steve

Tonight it was fried chicken breasts, mashed taters, corn & green onion gravy. Steve

Steak & broccoli Lo-mien. Steve

I consider any photo hosting site that I use as a "temporary rental arrangement". There are no guarantees that any of them will not pull the same sort of stunt that Photobucket did somewhere down the road. I keep all of my photos on my hard drive, & if I feel that I need to keep them "safe", I can put them on an external drive. entrusting all of your photos to an external source like a "free hosting site" is sheer stupidity, especially now that it has become obvious to all of us, (post Photobucket), what can happen. If Fotki turns on us, I will be out nothing, just like when Photobucket tried to give us all the shaft. I know where all of my photos are. Steve

Yeah, a little. I guess I wonder why it always has to be a Model A or '32 Ford. There were other cars made in the 20s & 30s. Lots of them. And very interesting ones. Wouldn't it be just as easy, & a nice change of pace, to customize a Buick or a Dodge or any of a million other cars for a change? Steve

Personally, I'm not a fan of spraying new paint over old, so I would strip it regardless. But if you're going to do it, & there is even a slight possibility of silicone in the polish, all you should need is a good scrubbing with hot water & a dish detergent like Dawn. That should be all that is necessary. Steve

It's all in the name folks. "Round 2" says everything that you need to know. Some very enterprising gentleman bought up a whole bunch of existing molds and went into the business of re-popping old kits. They can focus on profits without the huge expense of development a production of new tooling. You can't blame them for that. But I doubt that you will see a whole lot for new kits from Round 2. Steve

I agree with all of this. The boy knows his stuff! Steve

You don't have to tell me! We started out last year with all new exterior doors around the entire house. Next, it was new appliances, counter tops, and back splash in the kitchen, as well as adding some over and under cabinet lighting. Then it was paint & all new floors throughout the kitchen/dining/living room area. Lately it it has been all new interior doors & trim in that area, and now the fireplace. Next will be paint and hardware on the kitchen cabinets, and then I'll likely move on to re-doing the stairway to the basement. Then we will move on to completely renovating 3 bath rooms, three bed rooms and the family room. Not to mention all of the landscaping work that needs to be done outside! The house was nice when we bought it, but it was very dated & in need of a lot of updating. It's good to be able to do most of the work yourself. I hate to think of what all of this would cost if we had to hire it all out!! Steve

Fotki is $24.00 a year. Great service! Steve

This is a good technique for nearly any color. I will usually shoot as close of a base color as I can find to the finish color I'm using. I usually use a Duplicolor touch up paint for a base under MCW colors. I'm generally not impressed with the metallic particle size in Duplicolor paint, but it works great for a base & it saves on my prized MCW paint. As an example, I used a dark red Duplicolor base under the MCW "Plum Mist" on my '67 Bonneville. I use this technique whenever possible. Steve

Very cool! I wouldn't mind having one of these kits. For such a monumental boat, these cars looked pretty sleek. Steve