StevenGuthmiller

Thank you Dan! Steve

Looks great Bill! Steve

Thanks so much everyone!! Now that I've got the "muscle car fever" out of my system, I'm looking forward to going back to what I enjoy most. late 50s-mid 60s enormous boats! Thank you all again! Steve

Hmmm. Not really sure how I missed this one. Really nice work Peter! Steve

Lookin' good Bill! You can't go wrong with a nice "unusual" color like this. It will surely draw attention. Steve

I'm skeptical that this can be done with no kinks in the foil. I have not tried it, so I could be wrong, but it doesn't seem possible. Steve

Most of the time! Steve

The chrome was already re-done by "Kustom Khrome" in Wisconsin. They do absolutely flawless work. Steve

Not 100% sure how I'm going to work this as I really want to resume with my '62 Chrysler 300 convertible project, but this re-builder '63 Bonneville will be next up on the roster. I may try to work them together, although that never seems to work for me. I'm thinking of using a beautiful '59 GM turquoise called "Crown Sapphire" on this one. Steve

I would be very tempted to do a '69 Road Runner in "F8 Ivy Green" just because I had a friend with one in that color in high school. But after doing the Coronet in green, I suppose a different color would be in order. I would possibly do one as a 383 car in something like "Y2, Sunfire Yellow" or "T5, Bronze Fire". Steve

I didn't realize that AMT did the GTX in a hardtop. I have the convertible & of course the '68 Road Runner, but wasn't aware of the hardtop. I would be interested in a Johan '69 Road Runner kit. Don't know when I'd ever build it, or what I could trade for it, but it is one that I've had on the radar. Let me know what you would need for one. Steve

Really a pretty nice body style for 1970. For a giant boat, they didn't look half bad! You did a great job on this one Steve. Steve

Tastes in colors have surely changed over the years! Green, whatever shade, was everywhere back in the late 60s & 70s. I picked this color because the first color that pops into my head for a B-body Mopar is green. It would have been more appealing in a bright blue, red, orange or yellow, but to me, those colors were not as representative of the times. Steve

I would like to do one of these Johan '69 Road Runner/ GTX kits someday. I've wanted to do the '68 AMT kit for sometime, but was never very enthusiastic about all of the body inaccuracies. I had a Johan '69 Road Runner kit many years ago that my father tossed out on a basement cleaning binge. I have yet to replace it. If I do one, I'll probably do the Road Runner vs. the GTX just because the GTX is so darned hard to find. Steve

As far as sanding grits go, I usually use those packs of Testors (Model Master) sanding films which start at course (150), to ultra fine (600) They've always worked well for me. Steve

That was the point Jeff. Those "ugly" greens were extremely popular in this time period. I had a '68 Chrysler close to this color, & a '72 Plymouth in a darker shade. A good friend of mine had a '69 Road Runner in "F8" green. There are several late 60s dodge muscle cars in my area that I see all of the time, all in various shades of green. I don't remember ever seeing one in "B5" blue, but you sure see a lot of kits built in that color. My objective was to try to capture the "period" with this build. From my perspective, nothing captures that flavor more than one of the greens from the time. I will agree, I personally never would have picked one of those greens for myself in '69, but a lot of people did. Steve

Yup. Any tape will work as long as it's thin enough to bend around the opening without kinking. Looks like you've got it pretty much dialed in! Steve

Thanks so much guys! While I had a lot of fun on certain aspects of this project, I will say, I'm glad it's over! I have used a lot of tires from Modelhaus in the past, but I've also used a lot of the AMT "parts pack" tires. I rarely use the original kit tires, especially if they're white walls. These old kits had some pretty lousy tires over the years so I nearly always replace them with new. One of the main problems being un-centered white walls. So I figure, why spend hours & hours making the model as perfect as possible & then put bad tires on it? These are straight from the AMT "Firestone Deluxe Champion" parts pack. I use these a lot. Steve

I use this technique now for nearly all of my foiling. It's much easier to get a good straight edge on the straight sections as well. Works fantastic on drip rails also. Steve

I'll chime in on a couple more flaws to save anyone the trouble. Seems that the front frame rails should have been painted the same as the rest of the chassis. Live & learn. Also, I fell victim, as I guess others have, to following the instructions & using the wrong piece for the wiper motor! Not sure if the '70 Super Bee included the correct piece or not, but I'll have to check it out. Thanks for the nice comments guys! Steve

Model Car World, (MCW) is what I use. The colors available are endless & the metallics are to the correct scale. Steve

Thanks everyone! The upper extension & the base are just hand made pieces. The main "tube" is surgical steel "syringe" tubing that I picked up on ebay. Makes fabricating antennas much easier. The "R/T" emblems presented a bit of a challenge Ron. While the center line of the rear quarter has a crease in it, the emblems do not. They are totally flat on the back, so short of filing a "V" in the back of the emblems, my choices were limited. There was no way I was going to get such a modification right on such a small part, so it was going either slightly above or below the body crease. Above the crease looked horrible, so I opted for below. Steve

I use a lot of blue painters tape as a "guide" when I foil & it works very well. Wheel well trim is the toughest, but it is possible to get a nice straight edge. I cut extremely thin strips of painters tape & carefully lay them down along the edge of the foiled area with a tweezers. Then you use the edge of the tape as a guide for your blade. Steve

Well, here it is guys! This build seems to have taken me entirely too long, but I guess I'm ok with the results. Many of you followed this build & I'm very grateful to those of you who offered their wisdom & knowledge of these cars. Without your expertise, I'm not sure how it would have come out. Anyway, for those of you who didn't follow along, this is what I did. The body & corresponding parts, as well as the interior tub are all original MPC. The body was painted with what I guess you could say is "close" to '69 "F3, Light Green". The vinyl top was added along with the dash from the AMT, (originally MPC) '70 Super Bee kit. The steering wheel came from the Revell '68 Charger. Other parts that came from the Super Bee kit include, the engine bay & all associated parts & the chassis & all of it's parts. Donated parts from the '68 Charger include, the engine & transmission, exhaust tips, "R/T" emblems & the mirrors. Anything that was left was scratch built. I decided to try & keep it a little different with some excellent suggestions from Bill Allphin, "gtx6970". He not only suggested the "stripe delete" option, but also the use of white walls instead of the usual redlines or white letters. He not only suggested, but provided the "recall wheels" as well. A big shout out to Bill! I like the result. Anyway, as always, any & all comments are welcome. Thanks guys! Steve

Aren't they all? I have one in the mint green & one in an even worse dark yellow!! Wretch!! Steve