StevenGuthmiller

I agree. There were a lot of really beautiful roof lines produced over the years. This isn't one of them. Maybe a '60-'61 Starliner type of roof? Steve

Don't glue them. I put skirts on a '62 Ford & their just taped on from the back side with regular masking tape. I did it that way so that they could be easily removed later without damaging anything. By the way, the Buick is looking fantastic!! Steve

Wow! I just can't believe that someone is actually taking the time to rebuild a Palmer kit! Good luck! Steve

Paint looks great! Richelieu blue was actually the same code as Chevrolet "Jewel Blue". Don't know about "Silver Blue". I couldn't find that one on the chip cards for '61. I used this same color on a '61 Bonneville but the paint came from MCW. I was completely blown away by the difference in the color when it was in natural sun light! Steve

Why not just get the Monogram '69 Super Bee kit. It's 1/24th scale instead of 1/25th but there's no conversion required. Steve

First of all, in order to keep it as original as possible, I would have had the original chrome pieces replated rather than replacing them with resin. But that's water under the bridge at this point. The wheels are most likely pressed into the tires. Those can be removed by "un-pressing" them. place the tires up on a couple of blocks of some sort with the front of the wheel facing down so that the wheel itself is not touching the blocks. Then just lightly tap the back of the wheel with a small hammer to slowly force the wheel from the tire. As far as heat sealed parts go, just carefully cut away at the back of the part until the part comes out. I've literally just taken a small needle nose pliers & carefully broken away the melted pieces of the back of the parts until they were free. Worked just fine for me. Just don't get too brutal. The best way to remove these parts would probably be with a Dremel tool with a reamer bit just grinding out the melted area of the part. The plastic that promos of that period are made of is pretty durable & flexible & can withstand a fair amount of cranking on. The steering wheel was never molded to the dash in these promos. It was probably either glued or heat swaged into place. I would cut it off at the dash, re-drill the dash & replace the steering wheel with either a kit wheel or resin. Steve

Not much today except a vital grille for my '68 Coronet. Steve

Great work Gene! I saved some photos on my hard drive a while back as a reference for a project. Looks like you may have saved the same ones!

Nice Al! Steve

Nice bird Donald! Paint looks great! Steve

I don't know what the problem is Bill, & I don't much care. All I know is that I have absolutely no problems with any other sites on the net or any other hosting sites. Every time I log on to Photobucket, it's 20 minutes of my life that I'm never going to get back. Not worth it. Steve

Where I live, it doesn't flow at all! Steve

Since Photobucket supposedly resolved their "hacking" issues & did their updating, I have noticed no improvement in performance. It's still as slow as molasses in January & it still keeps trying to freeze up my computer. Update ineffective! Steve

OOPS! Steve

I will agree with that. You'll never find as many body issues with a Johan kit as you do with a lot of others. Especially the modern kits. Steve

Nobody will ever know the difference. Steve

Please, let's not! Steve

I use a lot of Model Master paints as well for interiors, engines, etc. But for bodies I prefer lacquer & I love the variety that guys like MCW offer. I remove the needle & tip & clean them every time that I clean my airbrush. Then I quickly brush out the inside of the body. Only takes a few seconds & it reassures me that I will not get a tiny fleck of dried red paint in that next perfect white paint job I'm trying to lay down. Steve

I understand that people have their reasons for decanting, I've just never found the need to do it myself. Scratch that. I did it once recently. I sprayed a body with Duplicolor red from a can & wanted to save a little of the same color for doing an over spray on the chassis, so I decanted a little into a jar. Other than that, I buy 90% of my paint premixed & thinned for airbrush, so I've never had the need or desire to do much decanting. I've left my airbrush without cleaning for an hour or so between coats, but anything more than that & something in my brain says "must clean airbrush"! I know it wouldn't hurt to let it go longer. Just a psychosis of mine I guess. Steve

I was hoping someone with some know how would do something like this! Thanks Chris! Okay, so now I can see a slight difference in that cowl area of the front fender, albeit very small. What stands out more in my eye is the difference in the leading edge of the rear fender well. Almost looks to me like rather than stretching the entire front end, quite possibly the problem is in the rocker panel area. Extending the front edge forward a tad, & the rear back a little might be what it needs. Neither of which I would ever do by the way. The difference is so slight, especially in the front, that I could never justify the work involved to do it. I do want to reiterate though, that my part in this whole discussion was never to get on Bill Geary's case about anything. I just wanted to get the whole thing straight in my head as to what difference there was if any. Initially, I was not seeing anything to suggest that any modifications to the body were warranted. So cut away Bill! Your build will most likely be extremely unique. I don't see there being too many guys ready to take this one on. Steve

Sweet Al! Nobody seems to want to build these '63/'64 Chryslers these days. I guess they are a little tough to come by, but I'm sure that there are still a lot of them around. I think they're great kits! I still have a '63 hard top to build. Built a '64 a couple of years ago & it's still one of my favorite pieces. Steve

My guess is that the tan would have been leather.......just a guess. There were most likely several different types of fabric available. You would probably have to do a little more research on that, but this will give you a start. Steve

I agree. I use my airbrush for a very large percentage of my projects, but if it's a simple basic color like black, red or white, it's just as easy to shoot it from a can. Plus I don't have to clean my airbrush. I've never quite gotten the whole decanting thing either. Airbrush paints are available in a much larger array of colors than rattle cans. Why mess with the whole process? Why not just get the color you want in airbrush paint? Yeah, I know, the whole economic thing. Steve

Steve

I don't see any "measuring" either. I see discussion. That's why we're here, to discuss. Steve