StevenGuthmiller

Nice work Jason! I'm planning on doing a '62 Dart very soon as well, although mine will not be nearly this involved. Mine is a convertible & I'll be swapping the engine too, but that will be about as far as I go. Keep up the good work! Steve

Two weeks should be plenty, unless it's enamel. I wouldn't come any where near an enamel paint job for a minimum of a month! Enamel paints like Testors take a long time to cure fully. When I was still using enamel paints, I would paint the body & then put it away for several months to ensure it was fully cured. Now, using lacquers, a week is usually ample time to cure, although as Bill said, the longer the better. Steve

Nice stuff Bill! I have seen, & drooled over your '61 Caddy, But I don't think I have ever seen your '59 Buick. Both gorgeous!! Steve

I haven't built any complete Modelhaus kits......yet, but I have used a lot of their parts for many of my restorations. I use a lot of their tires & have done several kits with their beautiful wire wheels. I think the kit I've built using the most parts from Modelhaus is my '58 Ford Sunliner. It utilized the convertible up top, the continental kit & a set of wide whites from Modelhaus. All very nice stuff! I don't know what I'll do without their excellent tires! Steve

Cool Bob! The color suits it very well! Steve

Beautiful Bill! 4 years!! I would have lost interest after about 2 months! Glad you didn't. Steve

All I can think of when I see this is the song "Lowrider" by war. After watching the movie again just last night on Netflix, I can't get it out of my head! You nailed it Pat! Steve

I agree Harry. The '67 was probably the best looking Ford to come out of the '60s. The '61 & '64 were 2 more of my favorites, but I think they did hit the ball out of the park in '67. That being said, it's a little surprising to me that no one has seen fit to do a new '67 Galaxie kit over the past 49 years! Steve

Looking nice Curt! Those foil strips on the interior are nasty to cut after applying them. I cut thin strips of foil & then apply them. They can be a little difficult to deal with, but it saves me the frustration of trying to cut them inside the tub. Steve

Pretty neat Bill! A couple of the pictures make it look light blue to me, but the others look right. Steve

I prime almost everything depending on certain circumstances, & I brush paint only areas where spraying paint would be too difficult. Steve

Such a good looking car! When is someone going to do this in kit form?.........Moebius?? Steve

Thanks guys! I'm kind of partial to this color combo. my 1:1 '69 Pontiac Grand Prix has a pearl & black interior. I used the same combo on my '64 Chrysler 300 & really thought it looked good. Steve

The white is just the kit plastic with a very light misting of "Ceramcoat Pearl Finish". Just the cheapo craft paint you can pick up at any craft store, but thinned for airbrush, it works fantastic for things like this. I use it on most of my interiors. It gives them a nice matte or semi-gloss "sheen". The black parts are just Duplicolor black primer with a light coat of the Ceramcoat pearl. Steve

I strip vintage kits all of the time with very few issues. I think if it is a styrene kit, it's just more of an "individual" thing. The only old kit that I've had brittleness issues with in the past few years was an MPC '65 Dodge Monaco, & that was expected because supposedly all of them were molded in gold plastic & as a result there were problems with them. I've built about 30 kits in the past three years, all of them produced before 1966 & at least 2/3 of them have spent a few days in the "soup". No problems what so ever. Steve

I'll bet that we could work out something with the headers anyway. I'll quite possibly be using the air cleaner when I build it, but I doubt that I'll use the headers. I'll bet that I have a couple more sets of these too. My guess is the '66 & '67 Fury kits that I have include them as well. Steve

That's just plain sharp!! The colors are fantastic! Nice work! Steve

Thanks guys! Thanks Tommy. The lights are not correct for a hardtop but I thought as long as they're there, I just as well make them look nice. Steve

I've done much worse foil jobs. Probably a couple of the worst were a '59 Dodge & a '60 Plymouth Fury. Not to mention a '58 Buick! I think the most challenging part when I did my '61 Dodge was foiling the trim on the tail light lenses! This one shouldn't give you too much trouble Steve. It will really "pop" with the black. Steve

This is the chrome tree from my '65 Fury kit. Steve

If it is truly a promo, you have to be very careful about stripping them. The majority of the older ones are not made of styrene. They are an acetate plastic that can react badly to some types of strippers that work well for styrene. That may have been part of the reason why it reacted the way it did. Hope it all works out for you. Steve

Thanks guys! The separate front seats do make a huge difference. The 3 piece tubs are the real challenge! Steve

Looks awesome Steve. I'm not much for the "flat black" thing, but the combination is an eye catcher. The foil on this one isn't too bad. just the side spear/ fin trim & a few odds & ends here & there. The worst part about foiling this vintage of car is all of the window trim! Steve

I know the feeling John. I do this all the time. For the past week, every time I come home for lunch, I look on the front step to see if my 9 jars of MCW paint have arrived. No luck yet, but I'm sure it will be here soon. Steve

Very cool Marcelo! I like the fact that you went out on a limb a little with the colors. The gold with a white top & black interior is unusual but not out of the realm of possibility. Some of these old cars were built with very bizarre combinations. Whatever the customer wanted! I recently saw a car on an auction show on television with a dark green body & a red interior! Nice work Marcelo! Steve