StevenGuthmiller

Thanks guys. I really hope to have this build done before Christmas but you know how it is this time of year. Busy, busy, busy!! So, a more realistic deadline would be before New Years! Maybe I'll get lucky & be able to sneak away to the shop for a couple of hours over the holidays! Steve

I probably wound up paying more than the $107.00 by the time I built it any way. I wound up buying a hardtop body later, which is really what I wanted in the first place, & I had to get a few replacement parts from Modelhaus because I broke a few trying to get it apart! But, it was an important part to add to the collection, so I have no regrets. Steve

Nice John! I've got a '59 build to do this winter myself. Stock of course! Steve

That was my guess but I thought it could have been one of those "gold green" colors so popular in the late 60s & early 70s. Steve

That's a great idea! I may have to check that out. Steve

Do you feel comfortable telling us what you paid for it? I got one of these in roughly the same shape, (not quite as nice) for about $40.00 a year or two ago. Steve

I had a ton of them too! Used to go down to the five & dime & pick them up for I think it was Forty nine cents or the like. Take 'em home & have 'em built in 10 minutes! steve

I knew a guy from school who bought one of these brand new in '70! I was just a pup of about 8 or 9 & he was the son of the owner of the dairy in our small town. He was the talk of the town when he brought that thing home! His was orange though. Nice job!!

Feels good doesn't it. Who needs a full show build! Just build!! Looks great to me! I'm having a little trouble with the color though. Is it green or gold? Steve

I think I have one of those somewhere! Steve

Thanks everybody! I think they look a little better with a coat of Alclad! Steve

Thanks Dan. I would prefer not to have to build them, but those ugly old square mirrors that all of the manufacturers used to include in the kits back then are just heinous!! Nobody produces a nice resin cast mirror, so I guess it's up to me to make my own. Steve

I never really got into the flocking thing but I recently tried the standard tried & true thinned Elmers & embossing powder & it worked fantastic! I won't hesitate to do it again. Not including the time it took to mask off the rear seat & door panels, (maybe 15-20 minutes) it took me all of 10 minutes to do it. well worth the time. Definitely prefer the looks of the embossing powder over the flocking too. Steve

I paid roughly $280.00 for a mint, in the box Johan '61 Plymouth Fury. I realize I over did it a little, but it was my Holy Grail kit! I don't regret it. It's only money. Steve

Get the "New Improved Chrome". Stay away from the "Ultra Bright Chrome". It's thicker & harder to work with. At least in my opinion the original stuff is the best. Take it from a guy who uses a lot of it!! Steve

I had heard a long time ago that the main problem with the Johan kits was that the molds would only work in the antiquated machines which Johan was using all the way back in the 50s. You can about imagine what kind of shape they're in. Evidently Mobius has overcome that hurdle some how. That being said, the Turbine car is still pretty easy to find, & I already have a Dodge! Steve

This is my second attempt at scratch building mirrors for one of these Mopars from this era. I figure If I can handle these, other mirrors will be a snap! This time I tried to get a little more accurate & even added the tube in the center that the "remote cable" would run through. This is made from scrap plastic & the mirror head is fashioned from a pulley. The mirror "glass" will be added after painting with Alclad Chrome. Steve

Reminds me of a story my dad told me years ago about how, in the town where he grew up, they used to pull an old car out onto the ice on the lake in the middle of the winter every year, & then make bets on the date that it would go through the ice in the spring. Looks like this could have been one of them! Nice work Stephen! Steve

Any American car built between 1955 & 1960 looks great in Aqua. & personally I love Coral as well. Quintessential 50s colors! Steve

I don't know, but I think this looks pretty close. It's Duplicolor #BGM0539 "Light Metallic Blue". I used it on my '61 Bonneville as a base coat, so the color you see on the model is not the Duplicolor color. Many times I'll use a close shade of Duplicolor to the MCW paint I'm using to save on paint, but I think they're pretty close. Remember, the pics of the model were taken out doors making the paint look much more vibrant. I'm pretty confident the Duplicolor paint will look close to that in natural light. Steve

I was Dan. I bought the kit on ebay & the stock caps were missing. I never really liked the '64 300 hubcaps anyway, so I skipped ordering them from Modelhaus. Two of the original wires that were on the kit when I got it were damaged from over gluing, but luckily I found a gentleman on ebay selling 6 of the same wheels. How lucky was that! with those 6 & the 2 good ones I still had, I now have 2 full sets! But, the chrome is not in great shape on any of them, so I'm debating on whether I should shoot them with Alclad or if by the time I put a wash on them they'll be ok. I'll just have to try that first & see how they look. Steve

My point is, If I'm only willing to pay $100.00 for an item, it really doesn't matter if someone is creeping up on me in $5.00 increments, I'm only willing to pay $100.00 period. I agree completely with Fred. If I bid $100.00 on an item early, I can forget about it until the auction is done. Then, if I lost, no big deal. If I win great! There have been many times I have bid $200.00 for an item I really wanted & then won it for $80.00. Just an added bonus in my opinion. I've also had "swoopers" come in on me at the last moment many times to no avail. It really doesn't matter any way. If you're not willing to pay what I will. it doesn't matter how you bid. Steve

I don't know Wayne. I thought they looked pretty nice! But then again, I always loved the Mopar magnums. I'll probably go with a set of original wires that came with the '64 kit. They're not in great shape but I think they'll look ok after detailing them. If not, I can always strip them & shoot them with Alclad. We'll see how it goes. Steve

This project is moving along pretty well despite the paint problems with the hood. I wound up having to strip & repaint the hood, so it's lagging behind a little, but not enough to slow things down. Still have clear coats to put on it & then polish & foil the hood moulding. Should be able to have that caught up by next weekend. In the meantime, the body is polished & the foil has begun. It surprised me a little how much foil is on this one. I guess mainly because of that nit-picky fender well trim! Some detailing left on the interior & the engine bay area & some parts to scratch build, and I should be getting close. Still have to make the "wheel" decision. No stock hubcaps on this one, so it's either Mopar Magnums or a set of wires. I think that being as it's a '64, wires may be more appropriate. Steve

I really don't care. Besides, if your high bid is $100.00 & bidding is at $25.00 they don't know your high bid until they hit the $100.00. If they bid $100.01, they can have it. Steve