StevenGuthmiller

Here’s a few meals from my kitchen in recent months. Beef and Vegetable Stir Fry with Chicken Pot Stickers. Steve

I agree. I think that often times people tend to over think, or over work their paint jobs. I don’t remember ever having anyone criticize one of my paint jobs, and I almost always forgo all of the between coats sanding, unless an obvious blemish appears. Like you, I spray as many as 5 coats each of primer, color, and clear without ever touching a piece of sand paper until after the final coat of clear. I will usually have a very minimal amount of orange peel, or otherwise slightly rough finish that needs addressing, but as I always plan on polishing every build anyway, I expect that a small amount of elbow grease is going to be required. It’s my philosophy that you can sand between every coat, at which point, you’ll probably be required to do some finish polishing anyway, or you can do it once at the end. Either way, if you really want a top notch paint job, some sanding and polishing is going to be required at some point anyway. It’s just a matter of when you decide to do it. Steve

That’s not even a word. ? Steve

Works good for me, and has for probably 40 years. Steve

I agree Chad. This is one of those areas where I have experimented a little here and there, but it hasn't been easy to come up with a good, viable solution. I posted this on a number of Facebook groups, and you wouldn't believe some of the suggestions that I've received! While a number of them have been somewhat helpful, or even enlightening, some have been downright stupid! One guy suggested that I make the glass from a Mountain Dew bottle!! Steve

I think that we can all agree that removing the adhesive residue from BMF shouldn't be part of the equation. There are a million ways to remedy that situation. Steve

Again, as with everything else, you would think that this would be your best approach, but there are many variables. First, paints such as Testors are designed for scale models, but are in my opinion, some of the worst paints you can use for models, especially the enamels. I, like pretty much every modeler that have been building for a long time, have had experience with these paints, and as a general rule, I've had more problems using a good number of Testors paints than any other. On the flip side, some of the most successful projects that I've done, were finished with Duplicolor automotive spray paints. Second, If you're not willing to broaden your horizons away from paints designed specifically for models, you're limiting yourself a great deal. While Tamiya and Testors, and some others, offer a wide variety of colors, there is a vast pallet of colors out there that you're avoiding basically because you don't know how to use them. I never rule out anything. Modeling is a continuous learning experience from the first time you pick up a tube of glue, until the day that you stop building for whatever reason, or at least it should be. Anybody that thinks that they have it all figured out, and know everything, even the absolute best in the hobby, are full of you know what if that's their attitude. I don't subscribe to this statement at all. Some of the best spray can nozzles in existence are Duplicolor "fan spray" nozzles. Some of the worst are Testors. Just my opinion of course, but I have never found a better spray nozzle, (including Tamiya) than Duplicolor. Steve

I've been contemplating a good solution for tinting glass for older cars for some time, and I think this might show some promise. I'm looking for that very light green overall glass tint that you would see on many cars from the 50s and 60s. Something like this, coupled with a darker top tint band might be a solution that could work well with a little refinement. Testors clear enamel levels very well, and has a good gloss, but as we all know, is extremely yellow right out of the can. So being as yellow and blue makes green, I thought that with the tiniest dab of blue, an acceptable green tint would be the result. Personally, I think it looks pretty good, and would probably look a little more pronounced once installed in the model. Now if I can just get it done without getting the slightest amount of junk in the paint, I might be on to something. Steve

Honest mistake. Especially when the builder himself marked his card as a Gremlin. Steve

Part of the problem is that the latter generations grew up with cars that were only "cars" in the literal sense. "econo-box" appliances designed for transportation......and that's it. It's hard to get really excited about a toaster oven. Steve

Yeah, it can be difficult to remove, especially if you bury it in heavy paint. The lightest coats of paint possible to achieve your desired affect is best. Other than that, you just have to carefully get under it and begin peeling it away. As far as adhesive residue goes, that’s easily taken care of with a little WD-40 on a Q-tip. In conclusion, BMF is a great masking medium, but it can be a little tricky to deal with, and above all else, heavy coats of paint are going to be the biggest problem with removal afterwards. Steve

It’s a Ford Pinto, but yeah, a pretty funny idea! ? Steve

Here's a great video of basically the entire NNL North show. Every entry, and the entire awards ceremony, is represented. Steve

Not this year. my current project wasn’t finished, so I just brought along a couple of older curbside builds just to have something to put on the tables. The black ‘60 Mercury, and the green ‘58 Buick. Steve

Slob!! ? Steve

I just came from a model show, and while it might be arguable that modeling makes you smarter, it certainly doesn’t make you any better looking........yuck! ? Steve

I use virtually nothing anymore except Plastistruct “Plastic Weld” for bare plastic, and JB Weld, “Plastic Weld” for all manor of assembly. Maybe I just like the name “Plastic Weld”. ? On very rare occasions I’ll use some ZAP medium CA glue. Steve

Duplicolor has tons of different primers, the most popular of which for modeling, are the automotive lacquer primers. Steve

Modelhaus used to offer one for the ‘58 Ford, but of course they no longer exist, and if you did find one, I imagine it would follow along with everything else Modelhaus and cost you $40.00!! Steve

Although there are generally followed rules, there are always exceptions to every rule. For instance, some lacquers, such as Testors clear lacquer, can be used over enamels, and other paints as well. Mild lacquers such as Testors won't harm enamel, at least in my experience. I use Testors clear lacquer over enamel all of the time with no adverse affects whatsoever. Granted, I don't use this combination on bodies, but everything else is fair game. Steve

Thanks Joe! I have begun scribing all of my trim as well. The two techniques combined work nearly flawlessly. Steve

A few shots from today's NNL North in Bloomington MN. The entries were down a bit from last year, but a lot of top notch stuff! Steve

I’m not knocking anyone for how organized or unorganized they keep their bench, I personally just give it little weight in the grand scheme of the building process. I clean it up eventually, but it’s pretty low on my priority list. Steve

Always plenty of excuses for poor behavior, isn’t there? ? Steve

I honestly don’t know how you guys “put a tool back” when you’re “done” using it. I might go back and forth between 4 different files, a scribing tool, a couple different knives, a couple of dental picks, and a piece of sand paper, a half dozen times just scribing one body panel, and the scribing process might take me a couple of weeks to complete. If I was returning tools to their original positions every time that I got done using them for a minute and a half, all that I would get accomplished is the shuffling of tools! Steve