StevenGuthmiller

Sure, it will work. But it takes a while to dry. Steve

Dug out the fan from the Moebius '61 Ventura kit and OOF!........it's about a scale 3 inches thick!! So, out comes the Dremel, the files and some sand paper to thin them down by about 2/3! Steve

I wouldn't even know where to start on that one. I have half finished models stuffed in boxes all over the place that were probably started before some of the members of this forum were even born! So old in fact, that I have no idea how long ago, or which ones were started first. Steve

Molotow will give you a very reflective chrome like finish if applied properly. Unfortunately, it's probably the most fragile of all of the chrome substitutes, and it apparently has a less than desirable shelf life. My 2 pens turned to silver paint in less than a year. For these reasons, I stopped using it some time ago. Steve

Yes, Testors enamels are oil based. I did a preliminary test of the Rustoleum just a short time ago, and as someone had already stated, it's pretty thick in the can, (probably a little thicker than Testors) so it requires quite a bit of thinning, which in my estimation, is a good thing as it will be more economical. The first thing that I noticed when I opened the can was that it smelled exactly like Testors enamel, which is also good, as it will be a familiar product to work with. I sprayed some of the thinned satin paint, thinned with lacquer thinner, (although it appears that thinning a little more than 50-50 would be better) directly on to a bare piece of sprue, (no primer) It sprayed pretty well and laid down very smooth. After about a half an hour of drying time, it's pretty dry to the touch, and appears to be drying much faster than the decanted paint did (although it's still a little tacky) and it has the exact satin sheen that I was hoping for. I think with just a bit more thinning, this stuff should be just the ticket for an economical satin black paint. Tests for the gloss and flat will be done at a later time. Steve

Thanks much fellas. Finally finished up the lion's share of the engine/engine bay parts and got some paint on them. Steve

Happier! Steve

All that I can say is that I'm actually quite happy that I'm closer to the end of my modeling career than the beginning. Call me an old curmudgeon, but I am now, and always will be, an "old school" modeler. I don't use a lot of PE and almost no billet or brass. I use very few resin and almost no 3-D printed parts to speak of, and I'm perfectly happy with that. As I see it, 3-D printing is quickly beginning to crowd out resin, and I can see a future where it could eventually do the same to styrene kits as we know them. I have no ability or desire to leap into entirely new mediums and techniques such as 3-D printing. Not to say that I might not buy an occasional 3-D printed part, but there's virtually no chance that I'm going to jump into that quagmire with both feet. I understand the "evolution", but I really have no desire to participate in it. Just put me in a room with my boxes of plastic and Evergreen stock and I'm as happy as a gopher in soft dirt. I'll leave the high tech stuff to all of you. Steve

Welcome Jim. I don't know if you realize it, but the '64 Comet Caliente kit is available again in plastic from Round-2. If you're not entirely comfortable or versed in working with resin, you might want to consider going with the styrene version. Steve

Not really. Just an illustration of how close Alclad, BMF and kit chrome can look. ? Steve

Alclad is somewhat fragile, although nowhere near as bad as Molotow. You can work with parts sprayed with Alclad after giving it some time to cure without too much worry about damaging the finish. All that said, I still only use it on small parts when necessary, and so far, I've been pretty pleased with it's performance. Molotow on the other hand......... just as a little exercise, see if you can tell which parts of this dashboard have been sprayed with Alclad, and which ones covered with foil. Steve

I was assuming that this stuff was pretty much the same paint as what's in these little cans, so I figured, why not cut out the middle man, avoid the decanting, and thin it with the medium that I desire to the consistency that I want. Seemed like a fairly easy and inexpensive route to several different finishes of airbrushable, fast drying black. Steve

I've heard people make this argument in the past, but all that I can say is that I've been spraying lacquers and enamels in various basements for decades, and I've never experienced any problems. As a matter of fact, at one point in my modeling career, while I lived in a small duplex, I remember spraying paint on newspapers on the floor of a small furnace room, not much larger that a walk in closet, which contained a natural gas furnace and water heater. While I wouldn't recommend that today, I think you would have to be pumping a LOT of paint fumes and paint dust into a basement before you would experience any explosions. As it is right now, my shop room is adjacent to my utility room, with them sharing an opening under the stairs. I've been spraying paint in there, year round, for about 6 years now. My recommendation would be to vent it out if you can, spray a little and let things settle down for some time before the next session, and leave the room as soon as possible after each session. Sometimes you just have to work with what you have. Steve

Just curious if anyone has used this paint for airbrushing. I recently decanted some Rustoleum enamel for airbrushing, and it seemed to work pretty well, although as it comes from the spray can it's of course too thin to thin further with lacquer thinner, so of course it takes FOREVER to dry. I've gotten to the point where I'm really getting tired of poorly performing spray cans, and-or paint that's just entirely too expensive. I've begun asking myself such questions as why should I spend $3.00 or $4.00 on a 1/4 oz. of Testors, $8.00 or $10.00 on a can of Tamiya, Duplicolor or some other spray paint, many of which exhibit horrible delivery systems, when I just need some decent black paint for chassis or engine bay parts, that doesn't take a month of Sundays to dry. I decided that $6.00 or $7.00 for 1/2 pint of paint that I can thin with lacquer thinner for exceedingly faster drying properties was definitely worth exploring. I'm not cheap under any circumstances when it comes to paint, but it just seems to be such a waste, and an unnecessary struggle dealing with spray cans that work like feces, when there appears to be more economical and less trying options. I'm going to mix up a few jars of this stuff and create some "enamquer", or "Lacquamel" and see how it works. I can't imagine that it wouldn't work, but I'm just curious if anyone else uses these larger and much less expensive variations of paint with any success. I'm also going to be curious to see if it will work okay for brush painting some small parts. If so, I should be able to cut my paint budget considerably and save the cash for the important "good" paint for the body. Steve

That was my thought. Being as I'm building my Bonneville to represent a 389 4BBL without AC, I was assuming the clutchless fan was probably standard. Although most of the photos that I have been able to find to this point appear to have no clutch, I haven't found much yet with a straight on photo of the fan. I have brochure information such as these provided by Bill Newcomer, but in most cases, the photos are too small to tell for sure, although it appears obvious that there are different fans between various engine options, and the only options that mention a "de-clutching fan" are the GTO and 421 HO engines. I guess I will consider that the proof that I'm looking for, although I'm still not certain if they would be a 4 bladed fan, or something with more blades. Steve

Looks WAY better than the movie car ever did!!! Steve

I've used this general approach in the past for a few builds, but I usually keep them towards the side so that they don't interfere with the radiator in any way. On my '67 Ford, it folds down along the driver's side fender. I did a similar one on my '65 Plymouth, but it folds along the radiator bulkhead instead. Since then, I've begun using a removable, magnetic hood hinge system instead for more realism. It can be displayed with the hood in the closed or opened position, or removed completely, without the need for hood props or actual functioning hinges. Steve

Love it!!! But wasn’t the Mad Max car a 2 door sedan? been some time since I’ve seen the movie, but I was thinking that it was a 2 door. Steve

Hi guys. Can anybody tell me for certain what type of fan was used on a standard 1964 Pontiac V-8 engine? In my searches, it appeared to me that only the higher output engines used a fan with a clutch. The majority appear to be without. My question is, what type of fan would a '64 389 4bbl engine have used? Would it have been a basic 4 bladed fan as used on earlier Pontiac engines? Steve

I agree. I have no doubt that I've been guilty of inappropriately posting items on other people's threads myself on occasion. Most likely earlier in my tenure on this board when occasionally over exuberance might have tended to interfere with common sense. It can happen from time to time, and I have seen it once in a while on my threads as well. But, as a rule, it's fairly obvious that it's not intentionally meant to be annoying, and I just shrug it off. As a matter of fact, I usually will consider lots of photographic responses on an "on the bench" thread a considerable help. But when it's a whole series of photos of a model from various angles, it's a different story. At that point it's clear that it's intended to be a "me too" situation, at which point, it becomes irritating and distasteful. And then there's that. Steve

I don't generally spend any time on the truck forum, but after reading your apology, I was intrigued enough to see if I could discover what your offense was. Really, it's not a big deal, but you just need to take a little time to familiarize yourself with all of the aspects of the forum. Be sure you are posting in appropriate areas, and above all, learn some of the "unwritten" rules of the forum. One of the biggest being "Thou shalt not hijack another's thread". In other words, if you want to post pictures of your own models, start a thread of your own. You can post a photo of one of your models, or a particular aspect of one, in another person's thread, if it has relevance towards the subject at that moment, or if the OP asks for particular information where a photo of a model will illustrate what he is looking for, but NEVER, under any circumstance, post photos of your own models on someone else's thread just because you want to "share" your builds. It only makes you appear to be an "attention hound" and you will be quickly ostracized. Steve

Thank you Charlie! As I was removing the molded in fluted panel anyway, I ground it out around the Bonneville emblem, cut the excess plastic from around the edge, and then sanded it thin. Steve

Thanks guys! Some more firewall details. Steve

One thing that you should know, is that as is the case with most of Duplicolor’s primers, it doesn’t cover great, so what I do to insure color uniformity is to give the body a coat of Testors lacquer primer first to cover well, followed by several coats of the primer sealer. Always works very well for me. Steve

I sand it. But I will usually add another coat after sanding and before paint. I mostly like it because it's a lighter gray than Duplicolor sandable gray primer. I suppose that I should probably suggest as the can says, to use it for sealing "primed surfaces", but I just use it like any other primer. Steve