Mark

The section from the firewall back was welded in. Everything forward of the firewall unbolted as a unit. Someone had the stock forward section, rolling on its front wheels, for sale at a swap meet around here this spring (didn't think he'd sell it, but the next time around we saw a "sold" sign on it). I've read that Chevrolet was experimenting with bolt-on subframe sections on that first generation Nova, as well as the monoleaf rear springs. They went to the longer bolt-on subframe on the Camaro, which was designed alongside the next Nova.

Lindberg cribbed parts from other manufacturers' kits in those days. The block looks an awful lot like the Pontiac from a Monogram '34 Ford (or possibly an AMT '36). They might have copied valve covers from some other kit, just so the engine as a whole wouldn't look like a straight copy of any one kit.

A guy I know uses a lot of big-can, store-brand enamels on his builds. For replica stock, he'll go with automotive touch-up sprays, but if the color is available in Wal-Mart, Krylon, or some other "household" brand, he'll use it, and polish it out. He's on permanent disability, so he's got more time than money. But, the stuff does work...you only have to wait long enough to polish it.

Nope, never tried hot water with resin because I figured I might be doing damage elsewhere while fixing the area I intended to fix. My first thought was to rubber-band the body/interior/chassis, but again there's the possibility of collateral damage like pulling the roof down or something. By the time you get rubber bands tight enough to do what you want them to do, they're going to be tight enough to pull other things out of shape too. Rubber bands don't seem to last like they used to; I use them at work (though less and less). After the audit is done (usually around tax time), I'll start boxing up last year's files, and already I'm dealing with dead rubber bands.

Revell's Sixties offerings were usually tough. I did get a '56 Chevy into one piece when I was about nine years old, and all the working parts worked. A couple of years later, I built a '55 hardtop for a relative, and that one went together pretty well. When Revell reissued the Tommy Ivo Showboat in the double kit (with the Mickey Thompson Challenger I), my older brother bet me I couldn't get the Showboat assembled. I did, it actually isn't too tough other than getting it to sit squarely on all four wheels (mine does; I used a piece of plate glass as a "chassis plate"). I didn't get to the '57 hardtop until about three years ago. The Ed Roth one wasn't out yet (that's the one I wanted to build), but it was released while I was working on the issue before that one. It actually goes together pretty well for the most part, but has its quirks. The frame-to-bellhousing "rear engine mounts" don't come anywhere close to where they are supposed to be. I couldn't get the rear glass to fit, didn't want to pirate one from an earlier issue so I tried different things from the parts box. I actually cut down a '60 Starliner rear window and got it to fit. I still want to build that Roth version, and I've got a first-issue kit which is actually quite a bit different from later ones (different engine, different wheels and tires, different hood and trunk hinges). Then, on to the Nomad, which I haven't tackled yet. Most of those have a droopy cowl on one side, which needs to be fixed before you go any further...

The bowed-out body sides are a common ailment with JF bodies. With some of them, that affects hood fit. The root of the problem is that the body was pulled off of the mold's inner core before being fully cured. Easy fix: clean up the lower half of the body, assemble it onto the donor chassis and interior, pull the bowed-out area in, and hot glue it. Set it back in the box for a while; if you procrastinate half as long as I do it will take a set in the right configuration. The hot glue will peel off of everything when needed. Don't wrap rubber bands around the body. Those dry out and break up fairly quickly, and they might pull something else out of shape as an unintended consequence.

Which kit? If you are referring to the '65 Grand Prix, the standard box kit is molded in turquoise. Flat box kit costs a bit more, is molded in white, and has a larger decal sheet. There are probably other differences too. With the '29 Ford double kit (which isn't out yet), the standard box kit is molded in yellow (same yellow as the Der Beetle Bus if I remember right), while the flat box kit is again white. Again, I'm not sure of all of the differences. I'll wait until both are available before deciding on which one to get, but I'm leaning towards the one molded in yellow.

The four-door rear window might be tricky; I can't think of anything out there that you could use as a starting point. The four-door and wagon are 4" longer also, both in wheelbase and length.

Yes...four of each size tire in each pack.

People undervalue their time...in my opinion, the root cause of a lot of guys getting into casting (or anything else, for that matter) as a business, and then falling behind. Been there, done that, except I stopped before falling behind. I didn't want to get to a point where I'd stop setting up at (or going to) shows, in order to avoid people.

And, for some, it's much easier to cash checks than it is to cast things to fill orders!

Mine's going to be a two-door wagon, with the "B" pillars slanted at the same angle as the rear window. I've got a couple of other Nova wagons in good shape, so I don't need this one to be stock.

The rear doors lack the lower-body sculpturing that the side panels have. Maybe use a section of the drivers' side body panel from the donor body?

The AMT tires are hollow, so you will need to use wheel halves with an outer lip on them. A lot of annual kit wheel covers will just slip through the center hole. Both sizes of this tire are included in a number of Round 2 kits.

You might have to try a hobby shop for the Round 2 Jenkins issue. Hobby Lobby broomed that kit out in their last inventory reset, and Michael's is clearing them out of their stores now. That said, the '66 underbody is THE way to go. It fits the '65 body really well. It should, being that the '66 is a reskinned '65. But the two kits were designed 20 years apart by different companies, so the interchangeability can't be taken for granted. The '66 underbody likewise fits the '63 (Boss Nova) wagon body provided you grind out the wagon's molded-in engine compartment. I've got one of those bodies cleaned up with the rear wheel openings filled back in, to stock spec. I need to knuckle down and scribe the panel lines back in, and get back on that one.

I've got some tires that look like those. I believe those Modelhaus tires are tweaked from 1/32 scale heavy truck tires. I'm not sure if they are Monogram or AMT. I got a couple of busted up trucks in a parts box deal, swiped the tires and wheels, and tossed the rest. The wheels pictured don't look like the 1/32 wheels I had; these are probably Modelhaus originals. The tires look like they have larger holes, and they've got two widths also. But you should be able to find the tire they started with, if you scrounge built 1/32 scale snap tractor-trailer or heavy truck kits. As for wheels, I think I cast copies of the ones in the Monogram 1/24 scale '91 Ford F-350 dually pickup (with a little material added to the outside) to fit those tires. Another wheel possibility might be the Monogram S'cool Bus (seriously!)

It's a snapper. I've never had either of the Camaros, but judging from other kits in that series it will be VERY simple. I've got the body from the Firebird here somewhere, if I remember right the taillight detail is molded as part of the body.

Even though it's not something I'd buy, I'm surprised no resin caster has offered a four-door yet. When that kit first appeared as a diecast, I thought someone might do the conversion. When it appeared in plastic, I was certain someone would do it. With the Jo-Han '79 in all likelihood gone for good, it's surprising nobody has stepped up and done this one.

The dual-quad intake is the only option. It's low profile, fits under the stock hood. There is a scoop included, but the hood does not have a cut line so it all has to fit underneath.

Section 8 Hobbies in Buffalo. As the name implies, they're heavy on military stuff (recently bought out a railroad-only shop that closed, so they're into trains too) but they're strong in cars/trucks too. I just snagged a Revell Model A coupe there this morning. They carry Moebius kits (only one other place around here has them). Nobody else within 50 miles that I am aware of, stocks Humbrol paints...I'm pretty sure they've got the complete selection. Bare-Metal Foil...check. Evergreen styrene tubing/strips/shapes...check. Round 2 tire/wheel packs...check.

The T-roof is done the same way MPC did it on other kits from that period. The interior/underside of the roof has recessed cut lines, like those they would put on the underside of a hood for an optional scoop. Fill those cut lines before you do anything to the exterior side of the roof, and you're golden.

I doubt that it's worth anyone getting their undies in a knot over. Modelhaus has been getting what, around $8 apiece for a typical bumper/grille unit? If anyone thinks they're going to resell them and double their money, I doubt it will happen unless they sit on that stuff for a long time. The last-minute rush is probably 99% people who intend to use what they buy. A small percentage of parts might be going into boxes with projects that get sold later in a collection "thinning out" (or estate sale). Those parts will certainly add value to the project being sold, but even then you could argue that the project is simply being made saleable by now being complete. The "bought for resale" percentage might be higher with complete kits, but even then the masters for those could still end up with another caster even if the whole business isn't taken over by someone. If I wanted to turn stuff around and double my money, I could do it (and have done it) more quickly with the right kits as opposed to parts.

The Beretta uses the chassis from the Dobbertin Pontiac J-2000 pro street...no rear suspension to speak of. The 1:1 J-2000 did run but seldom moved under its own power, was pretty much a trailer queen.

I'm liking those GT Radial tires...hopefully those will make it into a tire pack. The 1:1 tires were krap, but those outline letters were so cool back in the day.

Attach it to the inside of the body.