Snake45

The black and white I bought aren't what you'd call "high build," meaning good for filling sanding scratches and other slight surface flaws and being sanded down. They're thin, but I wouldn't call them runny. And they cover well. They're perfect for a great deal of what I use primer for.

Very true. In the last year I've been able to score at least half a dozen of my "holy grails," some of which I've been looking for for a decade or more.

No. You got an OUTSTANDING deal.

I've been looking for one of these to graft its front end onto an AMT '55 Sedan. Checked eBay a few weeks ago and was surprised how high prices were. I'll turn up a reasonable one sooner or later.

Casey will be along soon to post links to three or four previous threads on this topic.

Very interesting. I didn't think any F-4Gs were used in SEA so I did some quick research. They weren't--first one not flying until 1975. But I did turn up that 36 F-4Cs were converted to "Wild Weasel IV" at some point. No date given but it's possible that some or all of those 36 were used in SEA. If so, your friend flew a very rare bird. The main USAF WW airplanes were the F-105F and G (taking over from F-100F, I believe).

But your first one will never "pickup" anything but its front wheels, and will never haul anything but ass. Race car. And of more interest in the Car section than it will get down here, sadly.

Speaking of which, whatever happened to the AMT '64 Corvair molds? I don't recall it ever being reissued in any form including custom or race modifications. Any chance those molds could still exist?

Moved to wrong forum IMHO. Two race cars and a street rod. These are CLEARLY of primarily model car interest, not model truck. What a shame that many who would enjoy them in the right place will never see them down here. Great models, BTW, Rick.

Very pretty!

Yesterday I finished the '65 Chevelle promo rescue. Today I finished the second '67 Impala promo rescue, and rounded up the needed interior replacement parts and painted them black for the '69 El Camino survivor/glue bomb I'm restoring. Hope to get that one finished tomorrow, or sometime this weekend at the latest.

I laid a HEAVY coat of Rustoleum auto Garnet Red paint on one of the white-primed spoons. No adverse reaction at all.

So this is a dragster and not a street car, then?

You didn't read the first response to your question?

Didn't they retire the F-14s several years ago? Sure they weren't F/A-18s?

I'm in the same boat as you, except my place also has gloss white. About a year ago I was able to order 6 cans of Color Place flat white and 6 cans of flat gray through the Walmart website and pick them up at the local store, but now they're even gone from the website. Good point, and I will do. So far I've had EXTREMELY good results with the cheap Walmart white, gray, and black primers, and I'm hoping this new stuff will work as well. But I'm already virtually certain it'll work great with Testor Lacquers and Model Master enamels airbrushed with lacquer thinner.

Beautiful work, and very imaginative engineering, but, I give up: How is the engine cooled?

I just googled the stuff and found out it's a Rustoleum product. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/general-purpose-paint/touch-n-tone There's a store locator on the page. The google search seems to imply that Lowe's carries this paint, too, but none of the local Lowe's is mentioned on my local store locator search.

One of my friends in Model Airplane World does this with Future instead of Elmer's and swears by it. I've seen his results and they're excellent. Last couple years I've had good results just starting with a smooth finish, and then pre-wetting the area to be decaled with Testor Decal Set. Sucks 'em right down. Once in a great while I have to do a little touchup with Solvaset.

Set out this morning on "grand tour" of a couple hobby shops and a Rite-Aid about an hour south of me. Ten miles out, the highway was a parking lot with no end of the backup in sight, so I got off and decided, just since I was out anyway, to switch directions and visit a flea market, a hardware store, and a Rite-Aid on the other end of my county. The flea market is now closed. The Rite-Aid is in the process of becoming a Walgreens (which probably means no more $10 Welly diecasts) and would only let you in to pick up a prescription. The hardware store didn't have the Krylon paints I was looking for, just Rustoleums--but I did discover some new cheap flat white and flat black paints, so just so the whole morning/trip wouldn't be wasted, I picked up two cans of each. Read my report on them up in the General forum.

Great point, I'll have to look at that on mine. Also, the character line on the doors should carry forward onto the hood, and they don't. Hmmmmm, I wonder if both these problems could be solved at the same time--Cut the top of the hood away with a razor saw, chop it a little, and then narrow the sides a bit before gluing it back on? This would also allow more of the blower scoop to show, which would be a good thing.

GITTER DONE, '59! Eric, I've added your name to the roster and you'll appear in the next update (soon as we start a new page).

I agree completely. That's exactly what I'd do with it.

I don't think they've "yellowed," I think what you have is a case of what we call "silvering," where the clear film isn't laying down tight on the paint. A product called Solvaset might fix your problem. It dissolves the decal and lets it snuggle down.

Was in an independent hardware store this morning and checked out their spray paints. (I was there because I thought they carried Krylon but they're now stocking Rustoleum.) On the very bottom shelf I spotted some flat white and flat black paint in an off-brand that made me think of my beloved Walmart Color Place primers. The stuff is called Touch 'n' tone. Feeling lucky, I bought two cans of each. The plastic spoon tests look VERY good. The white is very opaque (I also tested it on a spoon that I'd previously painted flat black with something) and dries quickly, thin, and smooth. The black is really a very, VERY dark gray (like the old Pactra Hot Rod Primer) and dries fast, thin and smooth with just a hint of sheen that comes up a little by rubbing it with a finger. I think it would make a GREAT "hot rod black primer" final finish. The paint didn't cause any crazing on the spoons, nor with the old black primer on the one spoon. I can't say for sure if this is exactly the same stuff as Walmart Color Place, but it acts very much like it in all the good ways. I paid about $3 a can for it (not as good as Walmart's 99 cents) and I'll be keeping my eye open for more of the stuff.