Snake45

Of course a new mold could be made. But Round 2 will never do it.

Do you want SS stripes, or do you want Z/28 stripes? Two completely different things. And if you want '68 SS stripes, do you want early or late ones? The early ones are identical to '67s, the later ones take a turn and run down the sides of the front fenders. The hood wouldn't have anything to do with either of them, which leads me to believe what you want is the Z/28 type stripes. I doubt you'll find decals to fit that hood, but black ones would be extremely easy to paint by masking, and you'll have to mask and paint the cowl vent portions of them anyway. You can use any common '67-'69 decals for the rear stripes, which eases your work considerably.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Thanks for my laugh of the day!

Very interesting! I'm not familiar with the IMC F-105 but I do have a copy of the disputed IMC A-1E Skyraider, one of the most notorious turds in the history of plastic airplane models. It's quite obvious that IMC directly copied Monograms's A-1E, BUT they altered it from the multiplace A-1E into the single-seat A-1H/J. This required new fuselage halves, new cockpit, and new canopy. But the new parts were badly done and the resulting model actually represents NOTHING in the real world. It wasn't even marketed as an A-1E so wasn't even really in direct competition with the Monogram kit. I would think that the IMC kit was different enough from the Monogram original to legally not be a copy, especially since IMC also included new "battle damaged" parts in this series of airplane models.

I'm not planning my day around it. I figger anything worth knowing about will be posted here by about 4:30.

No, but it can make you mis/malinformed which can be even worse than complete ignorance.

They also did a Snapper version of this car, too, which might work better for your stance project.

I have a vague recollection of hearing or reading about him taking a break due to some sort of health issue, but I can't recall any details.

Very clean build! Model on!

ESSO became Exxon. Same thing. I remember when it happened. My Dad had an ESSO station at around that time. I had one of those tiger tails, but I don't remember how I got it. I don't remember him having boxes of the things, or whatever, but maybe he did. I don't remember if you had to buy them, or they gave them away as a premium. I think I had the tiger tail on the rear reflector of my bike for a while. What I remember about it most was that the elastic band was very cheap and soon lost all its stretch, and that the colors soon faded--instead of orange and black, it wasn't long before it was two shades of dark yellow.

For some reason, I now have a strong urge to drink a Monster Energy Drink, even though I've never heard of it and have no idea what it is.

Were any of those things still around by 1972? They were a big fad of, what, 1965, 66? Who did that promotion--was it ESSO?

I was unable to confirm this. I did notice that Walmart also uses the Color Place name for house paint. I wonder if Valspar makes that? Meanwhile, I looked at two different MSDS/SDS sheets for Color Place aerosols. Both had the "Manufacturer" listed as: Distributed by Walmart, Bentonville, Arkansas. Interesing. Maybe Walmart has the Color Place aerosols made by the lowest bidding vendor of the moment, to a standardized formula?

The Welly is 1/22--I measured. Actually it's 1/21.75, or something. As to the thread question, I don't care too much about boxes and papers, nor future value. I'm more interested in subject, accuracy, condition, and price. Plus which, you KNOW I'm gonna throw some Snake-Fu on anything I get, ruining any future "collector value," So I guess you know where I come down on the question.

Very interesting and cool! I started one of these years ago, intending to polish up the kit's beautiful molded pearl green plastic. You are inspiring me to dig that thing out and finish it. Drive on!

There is some combination of words or characters that the forum software doesn't like. You can try posting one paragraph or one sentence at a time until you find the offender, then work around it. I've had to do this from time to time.

Amazing. I had no idea! I assumed the cheap Color Place stuff was made in China. At one point Walmart also had a cheap gray primer labeled Home Shades. It had the exact same UPC number as the Color Place, and in my testing it was identical in every way--color, smell, drying time, final finish, every other way I could think of to compare them.

I don't understand what you mean by "rubbery look."

Will be watching this! I started one of these a couple years ago and I need to parole it from the Shelf of Doom and drag it across the finish line. I LOVE the look of the green one on the old box and am gonna try to paint mine as close to that as possible, though I probably won't be using the box art decals. Not sure what I'm doing about the engine yet, either, but I won't be using the mailbox scoop either.

Fabulous work so far! Much respect! I'm hoping to knock one of these out in the foreseeable future. After extensively studying the rear bumper problem (I think there's a long thread on it here, somewhere), I think how I'm gonna handle it is to widen the body at the trunk. Dunno if it can be done with one cut or it would take two, and not sure if the cut-and-widen would need to then extend on up into the roof, but it looks to me like it won't be difficult, and will be both easier and better looking than trying to section the rear bumper. Dunno if you'd want to do it that way, but you obviously have the Mad Skillz to pull it off. ETA: Just did some searching and there are several threads discussing the bumper problem. Here's one where I took actual measurements:

I bought a pretty decent resin '65 Chevelle body. Finish is overall excellent, but it has some annoying pinholes in the worst place possible--right on the raised thin trim strip on the trunk lid. You can see at least three of them in this pic (and there are other smaller ones that don't show well in the pic). Filling them would be challenge enough, but it looks like sanding down any such filler would be darn near impossible to do without messing up the trim or any of the surrounding area. And then the thing has to be chromed, either by Silver Sharpie, Molotow, or foil. I think I'm looking for some kind of liquid filler that will fill the holes flush in one shot with no sanding/workdown required. Anyone have any ideas?

Okay, that just went on my Watch List. C4, and a cool one, at a reasonable price. What's not to like?

The AMT Parts Pack T body, which has been reissued a couple times, is set up to drop right onto the Fiat frame of the Double Dragster (which has been reissued many times and is not uncommon at all). I don't see why you couldn't set up one chassis to take both bodies, Switcher-style. Come to think of it, I might do exactly that.

Not long ago I shot a project using a Testor can that had leaked. I didn't have any problem. It looks like a certain amount of product leaks out, and then it hardens and seals itself, and then it's bidness as usual. I didn't notice any reduction in pressure, either. Not sayin' this is NORMAL, just sayin' that's what happened for me in this case.

I don't normally use Krylon for a final finish on model cars, but I did paint this glue bomb rebuild '68 GTO with their red. This is NOT clear-coated; it's just 3 or 4 coats of the Krylon red polished out with Wrights's Silver Cream. I tried to paint a Chevelle Wagon with a Krylon blue, but didn't like how it was turning out. I found the stuff strips right off with 92% rubbing alcohol, so, no harm, no foul. Currently I'm working on a dune buggy I just painted with Krylon Shimmer (metalflake) blue. It was pretty shiny right out of the can but I'm rubbing it out with the Wright's for a little more shine, and it seems to be polishing up nicely.