Snake45

I watched and enjoyed every episode of Barney Miller, and have conceded it is probably the most accurate depiction of police life ever on TV. But it was/is a sitcom (pretty funny one, too), not a police procedural as that genre is defined: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Police_procedural And notice that it's not on the list of police procedurals, even though such light entertainment as Castle and Lucifer are: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Police_procedural_television_series

I don't know if that has anything in it (such as silicone or wax) that would interfere with foil sticking later. I've never used it. I polish with Wright's Silver Cream, which has none of that in it--it's just a fine abrasive in some sort of water-soluble carrier. Been using it for decades.

Pledge Future is not a polish, it's a glossy clearcoat. A polish uses an abrasive material to remove paint (or plastic) down to a perfectly smooth, even, shiny surface.

The DOH glue bomb I recently "restored" had the 500 body, no cowl vents, no windshield wipers, no body emblems, molded in orange. Which issue was that? Were cowl vents added back at some point? I also recently finished a 500 kit I started in the early '90s. It had cowl vents, wipers, body emblems, and sharp-edge-vents on the hood.

Polish, then foil. That way the surface under the foil is smooth too. Otherwise it risks looking like glued-on chewing gum wrappers, no matter how neatly applied. Foil sticks to a polished surface just fine. It won't stick to wax, though, so leave that for later.

I bet I could get that Camaro back on the shelf and standing tall in a weekend!

I have yet to see a Jada that wasn't oversized. Shame, because I might buy some of their stuff if it were in scale.

Any '56 body trim you want can be found as separate chrome pieces in the old Revell 2DS kit. Probably way easier than trying to create it out of Evergreen or whatever.

That's a beautiful model!

You'd also have to change the doors, the rear quarters, and maybe the whole rear deck too. The '55-'57 hardtops and 2 door sedans were completely different bodies from the cowl back, not just the roof.

Another vote for the Paasche H. I've never owned or used one, but I use the very similar Badger 350 and it's just about perfect for model car work. I've never known anyone who had a Paasche H to complain about it. At Hobby Lobby, I found a Paasche-branded airbrush that seems to be a Chinese knockoff of the Badger 350. With coupon, I was out the door with it for under $20. Haven't used it yet, but I have used a similar (identical?) Chinese knockoff I got at a flea market for $12 to spray clear very successfully. I can't imagine Paasche would put their label on the thing if it weren't halfway decent. FORGET the propellant cans. The only thing they're good for spraying is money out of your wallet. Get a tank or a compressor. I've said many times, I'd rather paint with a third rate airbrush and a decent tanked compressor than with the finest airbrush made and either propellant cans or a dinky little "hobby" compressor without a tank. Your air source is AT LEAST as important as your airbrush.

The difference is 4%. But some 1/24 cars seem to be on the large size, and some 1/25 cars seem to be on the small size, which makes the difference even worse. For example, compare the Monogram '70 Boss 429 Mustang to the AMT/ex-MPC '69 Mustang. It's hard to put them on the same shelf.

For me to work on one that bad, it would have to be something VERY rare that I wanted a LOT. Come to think of it, I have, at least once. I bought an original annual AMT '66 Mustang FB that had about that much paint on it, and had had all four wheel openings hacked into dirt-track-like proportions to boot. I ended up just stripping the roof, then cutting it off and grafting it onto a new common HT kit.

It's not a matter of "flash." The one I built in 1969 was bad enough but it was do-able. But the Hot Rod ones...Get yours out, cut the doors off the trees and stick them in the bodies. Tell me if the door and body posts all line up with each other. Then check the fit of the rear windows into the bodies. If you ever do build them, I'll bet the thought occurs to you at least once that it would be worthwhile to get the Del Ray kits, sand off the 210 trim, use the chrome 150 trim from the Hot Rod kit, and throw the rest of the HR kit away. Couple decades ago at a swap meet I scored a glue bomb '56 body that was old enough that the inherent warpage wasn't a problem and at least the doors and windows come close to fitting. I MIGHT use that body and a Hot Rod kit to build another one someday...if I absolutely run out of everything else to build. Meantime, I've got a couple of the Del Ray kits to do.

That's looking pretty good!

Magnificent! You really captured the look and feel of these things. Well done and model on!

Beautiful work!

My box must be full again. I'll have to clean it out soon. Thanks for the heads-up.

That should tell you something right there. You're going to actually build two of them? Good luck to you.

Great Minds Think Alike. See my post on the Falcon on the previous page.

Just got it today. They held it up because I had to pay $3.65 to get it because it was in a Priority Box. The moral of the story is, don't use the Priority Boxes! Haven't had a chance to open it yet, but I'm sure whatever's in it will be worth $3.65, so, thanks in advance!

Today they had a couple black ones, and a couple in bright yellow with black hood. And if they were in the right spot on the shelf, the price was $16.97. Not bad at all.

Haven't found one yet, buy I'll grab the next one I see. Like you, I love building the old retro kits.

GMTA, my friend!

You made me buy one of these, and I thought I had no interest whatever in it. But how else am I ever gonna add Black Pearl (or even Dark Anthracite Gray) to my Polished Plastic collection?