Snake45

Looks good! I assume you put some kind of black in the panel lines that you can't get back out again. I recently went through some door line drama myself. Here's an idea that might work for you. Go to Walmart or a craft store and look at the cheap acrylic craft paints. You want water-thinnable, and "matte" or flat (not gloss), and something that would look like "shadowed yellow." Maybe a "brown mustard" color, or a tan or medium (not dark) brown of some sort. Okay, squirt a dab of that out, thin it with a little water so it flows, and brush it into your lines right over the black. Don't worry about slopping it out onto the "surface," just wipe that right off with a damp paper towel as you go. I'll bet it'll look better than the stark black. If it's still too dark, try it again with yellow. My own drama involved a white body, and after trying a couple different shades of gray (on top of black), I ended up putting white paint in there, which looked better than anything I'd tried before. Good luck with it!

Very nice, very clean build!

Glue Storm! If some modelers ever formed a rock band, THAT should be the name!

You're both perfectly right in theory. But welcome to Planet Earth. It's full of Stuff That Should Be, But Isn't, and also Stuff That Shouldn't Be, But Is. Sometimes your challenge is to move things from one category to the other. Sometimes it's not worth the effort. Sometimes it is, and is rewarding and fun in the bargain.

"Attack! Attack! ATTACK! THAT's the kind of fightin' spirit I've been talkin' about!" --Hat tip to Carroll O'Connor and Kelly's Heroes.

I doubt it makes any difference, other than if all four were at 12 o'clock, that might look a bit odd. Random placement would be more "natural." BTW, love your screen name. Now I'm thinking of changing mine to "Fearless Styrene Assassin."

That's why it's called MODELING, and not "Gluin' Stuff Together." I own a couple copies of the Lindberg '66, but have never built or even taken a good hard look at one. Have seen a few built and thought something looked a little off, but not enough to turn me off completely. There's an inexpensive '66 Chevelle diecast available and IMHO it looks pretty good. It looks SO good in fact that it's been holding down the '66 Chevelle slot on my shelf for a decade or more, which is why I've never bothered getting around to building the Lindberg....

Tarheel Rick: Now THAT's what I'm talkin' about!

Sharpie also does a very fine point silver. I've only found it sold in pairs with a gold one in the craft section of Walmart (not the office/school section, where I buy the regular silver ones). They have a point that's useful for some things. I recently used the gold one (just since I had it) to do the gold Chevy emblems on a couple late-model Camaros and it worked real well. Much easier than brush painting them.

Going to agree with you on this one. I don't think the Molotows are the right tool for fine scripts, though they might work okay for some emblems and so forth. I found a very fine silver gel ink Pentel pen at Hobby Lobby that seems to do okay on SOME kinds of fine scripts. In other cases I've had good luck dry-brushing Testor Silver on fine scripts, and cleaning up any overages with the point of a round wooden toothpick.

Great color!

And some will instantly turn to Jello when mixed with lacquer thinner. Lost a whole bottle of Poly S Panzer Yellow that way in two seconds once.

Dunno about the flipping headlights, but I've restored two AMT '63 Vette coupes built back in the day (1963) and saved their original paint. No they're not perfect but they were clean enough to preserve as original "time capsules" of how things were built back then.

Got a chance to take a look at it last night. Was VERY pleasantly surprised to see that the headlights--or at least their rims--are still in the grill. Center part of the grille itself is gone, but I can make a custom tube grille or something there, not a big deal. I have a '65 body I think I can pull sili-clone molds from to rebuild the wheel openings. But even if not, I don't think they'd be TOO hard to build up with just sheet styrene. So it's probably too far gone to take back to factory stock, but I'm pretty sure I can get some kind of street bomber out of it. Maybe a Cannonball-type car?

I've seen some so thick and blobby that "sprew" might be better.

Worn, used vinyl can be pretty flat. Clean, Armoralled vinyl can be pretty shiny. For a model, you're probably looking for some level of semigloss. Pick the color you want and don't worry about the gloss level. Spray semigloss is available to put over either glossy or flat. Flat paint can be "polished" with a cloth or your finger for a nice semigloss sheen. And gloss enamel can be taken down to a semigloss sheen by rubbing it with a common pencil eraser. Strange but true! I've also used a super thin coat of Krylon clear gloss "misted" on over flat paint for a vinyl/leather look.

A door handle isn't a "simple" foil job. Small, but not simple. I'll just do those in Molotow or Silver Sharpie.

I'm using a bottle I bought from Sprue Bros maybe 6 months ago, not more than a year. Good to know about the Mona Lisa Metal Leaf Adhesive. I'll keep an eye open for that.

The Cotton T has always been one of my four or five favorite Ts of all time. I always thought it looked like the love child of a Fad T and a sports car. I'd like to do an "inspired by" low-slung sporty T someday.

Okay, I just tested a leftover scrap from yesterday. It might be water-soluble before cure, but water definitely did NOT take the dry stuff off the foil. Though, as I said, rubbing alcohol readily does. I suspect the stuff is something you could pay $5 for a huge bottle of in a craft store, like maybe gold leaf sizing or something, but I haven't found what that is yet. But even at $4 for the little bottle, it's a bargain compared to $8 a sheet or whatever BMF is selling for these days.

Yup--and so fast you can almost watch it happen. It'll strip Future so fast you can't see it happen. Of course, it was designed to be stripped (off the floor) with ammonia.

Fabulous work. If you'd make that available in resin, you'd sell a buttload of them. I'd buy a couple or three myself.

I'm glad you've had such good luck with BMF. There's only one place within an hour of me that sells it, 40-45 minutes away, so it's a big PITA to return a bad sheet, and if I did, the replacement sheet is likely to have come from the same lot. I agree that kitchen foil doesn't work well for compound curves, but most of my foil work is simple curves (90-95%). And even some compound curves can be "broken down" into more-or-less simple ones with a little thought. But I've already conceded that BMF will do SOME things that kitchen foil just can't. BTW, I use the Micro Metal Foil Adhesive. A bottle lasts a long time and goes a long way. I don't think it's thin "Elmer's Glue" at all--it's tacky when dry, which is what you want. Never tried the Gorilla Glue stuff at all, but I'll pick that up next time I see it and give it a shot. I don't think the MMFA is water soluble, but it DOES clean up with rubbing alcohol. I'll try to remember to see if water cleans it up as well.

Yup. Now, there are a few very tight or very delicate jobs that BMF does better, but I find that the homemade stuff is at least as good as BMF 90-95% of the time. And in a few cases, I think it's actually preferable.

You have this every so often with that product. Also sometimes it won't come off the backing without falling apart. That's why I don't use it anymore.