Snake45

I don't recall them being "too thick" on the AMT, but I DO recall noticing that they were different from the Revell, and researching the matter, and discovering that they're correct on the Revell and not on the AMT. But I admit that this is something that most people, including most modelers, would never notice or worry about. I wouldn't have noticed it if I weren't working on the two bodies together.

I had a '69 Nova for about 15 years and can confirm that the side glass is curved. The original issue of the AMT kit circa mid-'70s had this all right. Apparently at some point the molds got damaged in the window post/roof area and they went in and modified things into the hideous shape they are now. Every one I've bought in the last 20 years is this way. The first couple I got, I just thought the body had been taken out of the molds too fast (a common problem in those days) but I've bought several since then and they're ALL like that. (I've bought at least six reissues of this kit just because it's a "parts mine.")

Oh you are inspiring me all right. I know I can fix the broken corner but I'd really like to match the factory paint that's on the thing now because it's a cool color. If I get that far with it, not sure if I'd just declare it a restored promo or go ahead and Snake-Fu it with Silver Sharpie (or foil) trim, painted interior and details, etc. Oh, I just discovered the other day that it's also missing the rear bumper but that doesn't look too hard to make/fake. I have another one, too. Back in the '80s when I was driving that '76 Skyhawk, I started a Monza model to look just like it--white with blue interior. I never finished it but I seem to recall that I got pretty far along. I'll have to dig that thing out and see what it takes to kick it through the goalposts.

For the purposes of this conversation, I propose that "North America" has been definitively and legally defined: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_American_Free_Trade_Agreement

I worked for years with a compressor without a tank, and since 2002 I've worked with a compressor with a tank. The latter is infinitely preferable and I would never willingly go back to tankless. Among the tank's advantages is that you can fill it at the beginning of a session (takes maybe 3-5 minutes), then turn the compressor off and airbrush for a good long time silently. My tank is only 2-3 gallons and will get me through most of my normal airbrushing sessions. (Initial fill is @ 125 psi.) I've said many times, the day I bought my Walmart C-H compressor and hooked it up in 2002 was the single happiest day of my adult modeling life.

Not if you have masking tape and superglue right there on your workbench!

I built both when they first came out and concluded that the Revell body was noticeably more accurate in shape. The AMT doesn't look bad and if it were all we had, we'd live with it and love it. But the Revell is better. I also recall both kit being troublefree builds, especially the Revell. I can't speak to the accuracy of the two pro street chassis. I have both kits but have never built either. The Revell pro street kit has that wonky rear end/taillight treatment. If you want a stock rear end on your car, you'll also need the stock kit for that part. Also, the pro street kit only has the lumped hood, so if your car has a stock or stock-ish hood, you'll need the stock kit for that.

Looks like something right off Street Outlaws! Cool!

I just finished the AMT '53 snapper, and the body is straight and quite nice. If you can't find a straight body elsewhere, that kit has it--but you'd have to cut the hood out if you want to convert it to full-detail.

The Lovely Mrs. Snake will be surprised to discover that she is now a North American. (BTW, she has been a US citizen since 2000.)

Maybe it's intended as a primer for further clear gloss coats. I wonder if it's flat, matte, satin, or what. It might have some use in our world. Hmmmmm....

With the future of Revell in doubt, I grabbed another '67 Nickey Camaro (mainly for the cool stinger hood) at HL with my coupon.

Very nice! The grille is particularly eye-catching.

That sounds like an excellent idea!

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll be using kitchen foil, which is a bit thicker than BMF and should hold up better. But I'll keep some thinner handy just in case.

Thanks. I assume that's the Fiery Orange not the Flaming Orange? Also, nice job with the '69 Camaro taillights. I didn't even recognize them!

HEY HEY HEY! I didn't say it was greed. I rolled eyes at that.

Haven't we just had two recent threads on this topic? Casey? At any rate, WHAT you use isn't IMHO nearly as important as WHEN you use it, which should be BEFORE your final paint, not after.

I have a mint '68 AMT kit I'm going to build, maybe as soon as next year. It's going to be dark green, but I haven't yet decided on interior--saddle, black, or white/black. When I build it, I'll post in-progress pics here, soliciting accuracy advice as I go. I want to do it as OOB as I can stand, but I also want it factory stock if it can be done without any permanent alterations to the body.

VERY cool! Your workmanship/craftsmanship is impeccable!

Steve, due to your urging and obvious success, I'm going to be trying this trick on a couple of Corvette models in the very, very near future. I'm not anticipating needing thinner, though; I'm pretty sure I'll just polish through to the foil.

Very nice, and fabulous color!

I was just playing around with a Lindberg '80-'81-ish Mustang last night. It will take a little work to get the body cleaned up, but I think a pretty decent/cool model could be built from it, especially with Not A Whole Lot Else available for this these days.

Very nice! Great color--what's the paint?