Snake45

Good night, bad night on eBay. Was watching a clean '70 Javelin promo (mistakenly listed as a '69) at $40+, put in a very healthy bid at the last minute but it went for $115 (WAY over my bid). Watched a damaged (broken windshield and missing right A-pillar) '73 Firebird Forumula promo that sat there all day at $18. Put in a bid of almost $50 at the last minute but somebody wanted it more because I lost it by a dollar. (Got to imagine the winner's face, though: "Got it! Hey, wait, it was only $18 a minute ago, WTH?") Did score a '81 Mustang Cobra I wanted. It was on two weeks ago and went off bidless--I forgot to bid on it--and evidently last night somebody else woke up too because it cost me a bit more than it would have two weeks ago. Oh well. On the plus side, I scored a mint '70 Corvette promo for about the same price (including shipping) that I pay for my Toy Show Glue Bombs, so, Boo-ya on THAT one.

It's absolutely vital IMHO. The tank gives you a steady stream of air. Hooking your AB direct to your compressor gives you pulses of air. My Walmart compressor has a 2-gallon (maybe 3, I forget) tank. With this, I can turn the compressor on and let it fill the tank to the cutoff limit of 125 psi--takes maybe three minutes?--and then turn the compressor off and run an entire airbrushing session on the tank alone in complete silence. If I leave the compressor on it will kick in again as the pressure drops to 75 psi or something, but as normal AB working pressure is 20-40 psi, the tank will last a usably long time all by itself. In fact, it's rare that I have to turn the compressor back on in any one shooting session.

Not bad at all! What kit is it?

The only thing I don't like about the M2 Camaros is, the top of the side window openings is dead flat, and it should have a VERY slight curve in it. (To be honest, the Revell '69 Camaro body has a bit of the same flaw.) But it's not as distracting as it is in a few other model car bodies I could name. It's not a deal-breaker for me; as I said I've bought 2 M2s (and many Revells) and will probably buy more.

I dunno, I'm having a hard time thinking of any full-size '70s car I'd spend money for a model of. The last good looking full-size car I can think of was the '68 Impala (IMHO, of course).

I've thought of that very thing but the problem is, there's a concave radius between the two, and I can't find any kind of tool that will let me file or sand that around the curved "corners" at the top. Best idea I've come up with is to do it in two layers as you suggest, and then brush some paint/primer between the two and then immediately wipe it out with my finger, leaving some of it in the corner of the joint. Might take two or three apps of this technique to get it done, but it COULD work. Of course, on my custom, I'm going to disregard that recessed lip and make the wheel openings whatever shape I want--probably stock or close to it, but without the recessed lip.

There ya go!

At least three of the Aurora 1/32s survived for a while--the '65 Mustang, Barracuda, and GTO. Monogram sold the GTO in its boxes--I have one. Never saw the Cuda in boxes but I bought a couple of them unboxed and "bagged" from Squadron in the '80s or early '90s. And I never saw the Mustang, but I did see ads for it; Monogram (or somebody) was using it as a giveaway to join some kind of modeling club. I have a Mako Shark left over from my childhood--still have the box, too. I remember building the Triumph Spitfire and it was a cool little kit.

Way cool! The '70 Cuda grille is probably worth whatever you paid for the whole mess. I saw a '66-'67 Fairlane grille in there. If you happen to find the "insert" piece for the '67 Comet grille, I'll find something cool to trade you for it.

There might be a certain correlation between those two factors, but I wouldn't say it's a hard and fast rule. Higher price can often mean higher parts count, which makes a kit "harder" to build, but higher price can also mean superior engineering, which can make all those parts "easier" to get together.

If you're looking for little details to add interest and accuracy, I have an easy one for you: You could scribe in the separation line between the front fenders and the rocker panels. And maybe lesser, more subtle ones between the rocker panels and the rear quarters. Vintage model car bodies almost never have these lines on them.

I have a JL '69 Camaro with a metal chassis. Pretty sure I have a JL '67 Shelby, maybe two of them, with metal chassis.

Maybe we need a 250SWB Group Build. Dig out those Italeris and build them. Dig out those SORY TURD AMTs and do something creative with them!

Worth a try, thanks for the idea!

Very nice! Didn't see those at my Walmart, but I did see some white ones with some kind of orange tampo on them--didn't bother to read it. I'd probably buy one of these if I ran across it, but probably wouldn't go to the effort to special order one. Is it orange or red? Can't really tell for sure from your pics. I have two M2 '69 Camaros, a black RS and an orange Z with black stripes. I like 'em both. I have at least two, maybe three of their '65-'66 Mustang fastbacks, too. M2 gives you a lot of diecast quality for the price (especially the Walmart price).

I had that happen with a nice finepoint white Sharpie, and then I shook it and pumped it and now the ink (or whatever it is) will come out around the pump, but not through the tip at all.

That's a rationale--I can see your thinking there. Personally, if I think a Buy It Now price is reasonable, I buy it now, especially if it's somewhat rare or hard to find (which is pretty much all I buy on eBay). I don't want to risk losing an item versus saving $2 or $5 or some trivial sum.

Point up, point down, or flat? I haven't had very good luck with the type of tip used on the Molotow pens. They're good for a use or two but put them away for a couple months and they've gone bad. Don't want this to happen to my new $12 Molotow. (I just started a 2mm one, if the tip size makes any difference.) My beloved Silver Sharpies, on the other hand, work fine after months and months if stored point down. Even if not stored point down, I can usually get one working again with a "thermometer shake" or two if there's anything at all left in it. BTW, I noticed yesterday that they're now packaging the metallic Sharpies point down on the display card.

HAHAHAHAHA! I wonder what it would look like as a drag car with a 6-71 coming through the hood. Or maybe it would work as a lookalike "kit car." I'll have to see if there's enough room for a VW engine in the trunk. Thanks for the ideas!

Nicely said!

You're being kind. The final insult was that the model on the box wasn't the kit inside. It was probably an Italeri too.

Nicely done, and I like your whole collection as well.

I've polished both ways, whatever works. But the polishing is ALWAYS BEFORE decals, BMF, or any trim/paint detailing.

I watch Counting Cars every now and then. Danny and his crew seem like pretty cool guys except for that horny-head maniac. I wouldn't let the Gas Monkeys change my oil. Does that Richard guy have any actual automotive talent or skill besides being able to lay donuts in his own parking lot? For some reason the Street Outlaws fascinate me. I've never made the effort to watch a full episode beginning to end, but sometimes they're on at my naptime and they're great to fall asleep to. I don't know why. I wonder what kind of times they'd turn on an actual dragstrip--7s, I'd guess, maybe some of them in the 6s? I don't know why they don't get a Christmas Tree and some breakout lights. Seems like that would end all the starting line arguments. Or maybe those arguments are the point of the show, I dunno.

Cool score, Ace. I might have to get one of these. I fell in love with big radial high-wing floatplanes as a kid watching Clutch Cargo. Clutch's normal ride was a Bellanca Airbus/Aircruiser, but in a few episodes he had a Noorduyn Norseman. Over the years I've collected a 1/48 Lockheed Vega on floats, 1/48 Beaver, 1/72 Beaver on floats, and 1/72 Norseman with floats (and wheels), but still have to build any of them.