Snake45

The original chassis molds, more or less, still exist. But the body was restored to the stock '67 that's been reissued many times since the '80s. You could sorta get an "original MPC kit" together of MU, but you'd have to scratchbuild the bodywork and the interior tinwork.

Prolly because so few were sold as new cars.

If you have a real hobby shop in your town, you might find Micro Metal Foil Adhesive, which is great stuff. Or they can order it for you. Or you can order it yourself from Squadron or another supplier catering to the model airplane trade. That of course would be expensive, but even a small bottle lasts a LONG time. I've been using the same bottle for 20 or more years now.

I like it, but it'll suffer the same fate as the SSR--lotsa interest, very few sales.

It was state of the art for late '60s, definitely a step up from AMT's '32 and '40 Fords. It stands up pretty well today and can be built into a real nice model--have seen many of them done well (have never actually built it myself, though).

I think it would work great for simple curves, but not for compound curves. I've been meaning to try that myself.

Very interesting and nice! It has a real mid/late '60s custom model vibe to it, which is always a cool thing.

For parts as small as those in the OP, and even a bit bigger, you don't even need any expensive, complicated "resin casting" stuff. You can make molds from common silicone caulk (I like the Permatex brand, but have also used GE Silicone II), and fill them with inexpensive J-B Weld or 12 or 24 hour epoxy. If the part isn't too thick, you can even "cast" it from carpenter's yellow wood glue (the sandable kind).

Keep in mind that the Baldwin-Motion cars were all custom cars, done whatever way the customer wanted. They weren't "package" cars like the Yenko '69 Camaros. No two were exactly alike. So there's no reason not to paint your model any way you want it to look (including no stripes at all), unless of course you are using photos of some particular car and trying to build a replica of it.

That's almost exactly what I do, too. Only minor difference is that instead of wetting each half with the liquid cement, I hold the halves together and then touch the brush to the joint. Capillary action sucks the cement into the crack instantly. I usually have to do this in three places for full coverage but the whole process takes less than a minute.

Floyd, Hey You.

Saddest ending EVER. To this day even thinking about it almost makes me cry.

Fabulous tutorial, thanks much! I've been doing much the same thing for years using Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive. I've long suspected the product could be bought cheaper in a craft store if I knew what to look for, so MANY thanks for that! I apply it using a finger, just smearing it on thin. No brush strokes, no loose brush hairs, nothing to clean up but my finger. I also found that the glue wanted to "bead up" on the foil, leaving holes in the coverage. I found this could be beat by roughing up the backside with a Scotchbrite pad. Doing so acts something like a primer, giving the glue something to grip onto and/or breaking up its surface tension. Solves the problem completely.

Summer of '72. I'll never forget it.

Highway 61, R. Zimmerman.

Just scribe it into the plastic and drive on as you normally would. See: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=98126

BadCo, Feel Like Makin Love.

Indiana Wants Me, don't remember the singer--one-hit wonder? "This is the police. You are surrounded. Give yourself up...."

Very, very nice! I wish I had the patience to tackle one of these things.

The coffin bike looks like a photoshop job to me.

Just listened to that not five minutes ago. Crawling from the Wreckage by Dave Edmunds.

That's Zappa, but I can't remember which song. It's not Valley Girl, is it?

Dunno if I've ever heard that version or not...but I sure have heard LR's excellent cover from the '70s.

I Can't Let Go--I'm hearing Linda Ronstadt singing it, which means it was almost certainly a cover. Heck, I think I might actually own that record....

I thought you were going for a '70s look because of the new engine color, which dates to the mid to late '70s (I forget the exact year). A stock '69 Z would have had an engine painted Chevy Engine Red (red-orange).