Snake45

Somebody PLEASE tell me that ridiculous red '68 Camaro is a Photoshop job....

I don't think he can get the trailing edge more upright without major surgery. I agree the leading edge should be parallel, and there's still enough "meat" in there to work with. Get the door and window frames in there and I think it will look VERY convincing. At least that's how I'm gonna do mine.

I use the stuff all the time. One coat Walmart Color Place Primer Gray, then I put on two coats of the Duplicolor. I hold the can a little farther out than normal and go for about 90% coverage with the first coat, and then just enough to fill in the color with the second. I'm going for a slightly rough look and if you put this stuff on wet, it'll be too glossy for a good look on a model engine. I don't use this paint on "A" builds, as it comes out a little thick for a perfect scale look, but for my common, everyday "normal" builds, it works just fine. Here's an engine I did with Duplicolor:

You can get a '69 Judge together from the currently available funnycar kit and a donor for the chassis and interior. The FC kit has a stock promo-type body, including the spoiler, and I think even the Judge decals on the sheet. I'm planning to bash one with a '72 kit. Yeah, the interior won't be 100% correct but personally I don't get all that anal about interiors. Did Yenko even make a Corvair Stinger in '69? I thought '66 or '67 was the last year they did those. If they did, it shouldn't be too hard to bash one up out of the commonly available '69 Corvair kit.

I think the Chevelle and the F-85 are the only ones that haven't been repopped by either R2 or Model King in the last decade or so. The Chevelle molds are gone, made into the nasty dirt tracker. Who knows about the F-85 molds? Would be cool if R2 could somehow combine those two tools and give us an F-85 with a standard top. I'd buy at least a couple of those.

No need to scan the instructions, they're already online here: http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/straightline-competition/amt-hurst-hemi-unde/

You can also use white glue to make a great masking fluid. Thin it with water, add a little dishwashing liquid (not sure what this does but it seems to help--maybe with surface tension or something), and throw in a little food coloring for visibility if you want. Better than any masking liquid I've ever bought and you can make it for pennies.

That's looking better than I'd have thought. I still say you should drive on with the '67. If you won't, I will. I wanna do one as a late '60s street racer, something thrown together to go fast without a great deal of effort or money put into what it looks like, if you get my drift.

It's basically Elmer's, but there is a difference--I believe it's slightly weaker. I use it for temporary or semipermanent gluing of things.

I never thought about the 300 2DS roof being the same as the 4-door cars but you might very well be right about that. That means they'd prolly use the same back glass as the 4-doors, too. Now it begins to make a little sense!

Here's what I use. I get it at Walmart. It's cheap, safe, and one tub will polish out more than a dozen cars, maybe more than two dozen, I've never counted. For a finer "cut," just dampen or wet your polishing rag (the stuff is water soluble). Some clears and paints (such as Testor One Coat Wet Look Clear) are tough and this stuff takes a while to polish it. I've got some rust red polish from and auto parts store for that. I've been polishing both paint and plastic, including clear plastic, with this stuff for about 30 years now. Oh, the name is now Weiman Silver Cream, but the package looks exactly the same.

Do you have a COPO number on that? It would probably be 955X or 956X. I've never heard of a COPO '69 Biscayne. I believe the 427 was available in the '69 Biscayne as RPO (Regular Production Order), just check the box when ordering, no big deal.

Are you thinking of the '68? AFAIK the Revell '67 has only been issued with the 417 Stinger hood and a custom hood. If no one makes such a hood, it shouldn't be too much trouble to cobble one together by mating pieces of the Revell hood and a common AMT '63 hood. That's the way I'd do it, anyway.

I can't imagine that it would be. To be accurate, you'll have to scratchbuild the whole back half of the roof. It was completely different from the hardtop. In '64-'67, Buick, Olds, and Pontiac used the same roofline on their 2DS A-bodes as their hardtops. But not Chevy. The low-line 300s had completely different roofs, for some reason. I'd have thought it would have been cheaper to use the same roof, the way the others did, but for some reason they didn't do it that way. Or you could just put window/door frames in the hardtop and build it as a phantom body style. As a matter of fact, that would look pretty cool!

How about early F-104 ejection seats, then? They fired downward.

Well put!

Sorry to see you abandon this. The '65 hardtop roof won't work at all for your '67 sedan, and when you get into it, I think you'll find that changing a '65 hardtop roof to a '65 300 sedan roof is going to be even more difficult than doing it on the '67. You were doing fine on the '67. I'd encourage you to drive on with it!

Only chopped-top Mustang fastback kit I ever saw!

Harts Parts sounds familiar. I know I was looking at their site a few weeks ago. I think I started a list of stuff I need to order from various vendors, I need to find that.

Mercedebaker? Studebenz?

Body's more accurate than the Revell AAR Cudas. Detail and such, maybe a little better than the Palmer/Pyro/Lindberg '74 Challenger, somewhere in there, more or less. Not a horrible kit (I've seen worse) but not anything you'd want to spend a whole lot of time on, as for a contest or such.

Very, VERY nice! You can be proud of that one. Model on!

The mood finally struck me to scratchbuild the missing pedals, using the kit Manx part as a guide. Was so pleased to get the five piece made that I ended up gluing the gas pedal on backwards. Oh well, it actually fits better that way, and I'm not ripping the assembly apart--or doing it all again--to fix it. It'll have to do. Scratchbuilt a hand brake, too, out of sheet styrene and carved plastic rod. Pedals and handbrake installed, looking properly "busy." Those pesky fiddly details out of the way, I cleaned the flash and molding lines off the rear suspension arms and shocks, and reinstalled them and the rear roll bar. And then, for the first time in more than 40 years, the little thing can sit on its own wheels again. I think it's time to squirt some paint, before the front roll bar and steering column are installed, which will almost certainly impede painting. More to come....

Thought of another one I'd buy: '63-'65 Chevy II 2-door SEDAN (not hardtop) body. Most of the early funny Deuces were built on the sedan body.

Haven't heard of one for the Revell kit yet, but someone has one for the AMT or the Rev '69 kit, I forget which, and it's cheap enough I'm gonna get a couple and just cut the stingers off for other projects. Cheaper than trashing a '67 Corvette kit just for the hood.