mr68gts

I was going a bit larger for myself but 1/16 is an option also as there was altered that was a Bakersfield back in the 90's I'd like to recreate that used a Hilborn injected 340 and would like in 1/16.

Hakan, This was started because I require one in a larger scale. To my eye the AMT one is on the small side. I'd have to break out the AMT Duster kit to check/measure but I've been around my 340's since the 80's so I'm pretty familiar with them. Part of it for me was the lacking detail. They're close and certainly "good enough" for most modelers, but I'm not most modelers lol. By drawing it up 1:1 scale I can scale it down to any size I want as long as it's printable and it will actual scale. It's a lot of work but if I am going to do it I might as well do it right. Probably the closest accurate 340 was the Gibson resin engine. However with the multi piece block it was a pain to put together. (I bought one a long time ago but nla)

Should be the same JC. And it's possible it's as good as the ones in the AMT 66 Fairlanes. (in fact most if not all 1:1 FE blocks say 352 on them IIRC) Excellent work so far! Paul

Thank you guys! I placed the order for the 4 link parts and added to the file the front brakes, some of the crank drive parts for the 481x, the updated front struts, and some suspension tab pieces just in case the ones on there already break on me during the reconstruction and an MSD 44 promag. Like a kid excited for Christmas, I can hardly wait lol. Hurry up 18th of Jan! Paul

Measuring up my real 340 to have 3d printed. Just time,.... and more time.... lol

Thanks Dave! I so far have just used superglue. works pretty good thus far. So, with a WHOLE LOT of help, the engineering part of the 4 link is finished up. Now mind you on a real car it is critical on where the bars sit as it moves the intersect points essentially changing how the car will leave the line. On a model it's obviously not critical but if I can't engineer it correctly in scale then the end result is it will all fit together properly and now everything will clear so the model will look right since it is true to scale! All this work has led to this... With everything where it's supposed to be the driveshaft is now in the correct position. And the bars will be correctly located also. From this I can build the fixture for the bars so now there is no guess work with them. 4 links can be a pain in real life, no need to make it any harder in scale lol. Paul

Thanks Tim. Most of what has been printed has come out really good so far. I myself am curious though. The technology is amazing for sure but there are some limitations to it which is the draw back besides the clean up on certain materials. Thank You. I can't wait till it's on wheels! Plan is to have it as a roller with a basic engine on display at GSL this year. Managed to finish up the other part of the 4 link bracket. These actually adjust with in the other part depending on where you require them. (On a real car it's critical, on the model not so much but hey, if I can make it so..... I will! lol)

Beautiful work on that steering box! I wonder if Hobby Design is just using hypodermic tubing in the appropriate sizes to make it telescoping. Amazon sells Hypo tubing btw. Different grades and wall thicknesses to suit what ever . Comes in 1 foot or 6 foot lengths and the prices are pretty good. Waiting for whats next.....

So, with the brackets finished up I've uploaded a single part to Shapeways to see about print ability. We will see what they say. I really cannot continue on with the chassis until these are done and in so I will be in hiatus mode finishing up the commission work until these show up. (few things I need to get finished up over the next week)

Got a few minutes before bed. Managed to get some of the reliefs in the brackets. I'd like to finish these up and get it uploaded along with a few other things so I can get them ordered.

the small block mopar is in the works actually....as a 340 though

Just want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas. Looks like we are getting a white chrsitmas this year....hopefully. Be back on this in the coming year. Paul

Dave, I was going to do a Chevrolet pattern, (whats in the modeled mock up) however because I added the 4 studs it will now be a dual pattern 8 5/8 deep. I have a print for the Chrysler pattern also so it should be easy to add. I think I did the diameter at 14 but I'd have to check when I get home tomorrow night. Paul

Im not home to measure for a few days but how wide are the cheater slicks in the Johan SS cars? I know for a while someone was reproducing them in rubber. Maybe replicas and miniatures? P

How small is that end mill that did the reliefs? Holy cow! Great work!

Tim, if you do decide to get into it Ill help you any way I can. Dave, thank you but it is your work that has made me push my own limits. For this I thank you and it is I that should be jealous! So I managed to do the stud placement on the mid plate. I still need to add the coresponding holes for the bell housing bolts and there are 2 vent holes allowed in the mid plate for cooling. Before I print it out on paper I will draw lines through the center of each hole and use it as a template to drill the .02 thick aluminum sheet. Then install the studs or quandrant bolts.

Thank you Bill. I figure if I am going this far I might as well make it right. It really only takes a little bit more time to build an "accurate" model. Little bit of an update. I've got the engine placement and wheel base done. I need to change the bell housing up though. The depth is correct but the diameter is off and there are no mid plate studs in the model which correspond to holes in the bell housing obviously. Neat thing about all this cad work is I can even figure out the length of the 4 link bars and build a fixture accordingly! (the real reason I am doing all this cad work! No guessing, just accuracy as long as I follow the map lol)These 4 link brackets are a bit different in that they are more modular but they are the correct height and should alleviate a ton of problems with clearance issues with the driveshaft etc.

And, I may wind up using my own rear end instead of the TDR one. I will have to machine the spindles for it though to give it some strength. One of the inherent issues with 3d printed parts is there is not a lot of strength in the parts depending on material. What hold the wheels where they need to be is one place I do not want to skimp on material. I'm not to worried about how much the model weighs.

OK, what you are looking at is a "quadrant bolt". What these pesky little suckers do is make it near impossible to get the clutch can on or off when you are in a hurry. There is one is each corner and required on all fuel cars, I believe all alcohol cars (not the kind you drink!) and most if not all pro mods. They are actually in real life 3/4 or larger studs that are pressed into the mid plate and help retain the can in the event of a blow back. Keeps the can where it's supposed to be basically. I've had my fair share of experience with these buggers so what do I do, make em for the model! Ha ha. One down, 3 more to go. I searched the SFI spec for this for a bit to come up with the dimensions and yes it is to print in scale!

Thanks guys. Boy I'll tell ya what, reading the NHRA rule book is like reading the bible! There's a lot of deciphering going on! Having to flop between the NHRA and the SFI book has given me a head ache lol. Paul

Ah! Finally a top pulley! Looks great! Your a jeweler by profession right?

Thanks Chris! It's a bit more time consuming this way however it will be correct and square since it's all engineered on the computer! Paul

Back to the drawing board! I had a couple minutes this morning so I redid the print for the chassis floor and main rails. The new hoop is glued into the main chassis and I am waiting on some dimensions to show up, (thanks again!) to set the cross bar in the hoop. I've started machining the insert to properly space the 4 link brackets out the proper distance according to the rear end. Before I know it it's going to be a complete chassis again even though much of the old one I can't use on this version. I can salvage some of the tube though. I need to look at the wheelbase on the body again so I can find the mid plate location according to the 481x I've drawn up. (10% setback from number 1 plug) I'd like to draw up the mid plate to use as a template to cut out in sheet plastic although I may use aluminum sheet instead.

Don't know how true but supposedly the these "Petty" headers came on this car and they are the original factory header to the car. Not arguing or anything just know what they are saying. Restorations are hard to read because there's no telling what someone deems original to the vehicle. I believe he's got the documentation to prove it though. http://www.garlandmotorsports.com/65-super-stock.html

The elf on the shelf need to pay a visit?