mr68gts

Tim, I did not know they picked up the scale hardware line! That is awesome news. I was pretty disappointed when I heard of SH closing up. Now if someone would pick up the T2M line we would be set! Typically Id just use Roberts stuff and I have a stash of it but I thought I would try my hand at making all the hardware for this, the 935 and Williams FW14B that are also in the works. I don't mind making the hardware at this point but it will get old quick I can see lol. I'vI've actually had Robert make some custom parts for the 935.

It may not be correct (and Im a stickler for the details) but I think the FoMoCo blue sets it off nicely. And quite frankly there is no telling what was done to the car day to day or race to race. Could have had a replacement longblock as a back up engine. I would brave it though and paint the accent on the panels as you metioned. Imo I think it would complete it an already beautiful model. Nice work! Paul

I managed to get the crank bolt done. So, I am starting to make all the head bolts for it now. Lots of work to make 18 head bolts but the detail will be well worth it in the long run. Then I will probably start on the 4 link rod tube adapters. (take a break from the engine for a bit lol)

I managed to make one head gasket. I will get the other one finished up and installed. I still need to finish sanding on the right side cylinder head before it's ready for paint. Then I need to make the head bolt assemblies for both cylinder heads. I need to stat machining the socket head cap screws that go into the font cover and get the cam gear cover installed also. (it's painted already) The black on the "head gasket" is just a shadow. I assure you it's a full gasket... Looks like I'm going to be spending some time on the lathe lol. I also decided I needed to get a bit more organized with all the parts laying around for this thing. Everything has been sitting in baggies and I've used these bead containers for all my RB Motion stuff. They work out well and are easy to use.

Chris, it was actually over silver base because thats what I did on the triple clamp for my rc211v. Black would have darkened it I think. I mixed Tamiya acrylics to get the color. It was dark copper and gun metal mixed to get the desired color. Dave, I am seroliously impatient right now! Haha. I'll have it Friday supposedly but its only coming from Cali so I bet I have it Thursday. Oh the chips are gonna fly..... Lol

Dave, Thanks! The guy shipped out the mill post assembly this morning so I should have it in a couple days! There's so many things I can add to this now without having to have it 3d printed that it's going to take on a whole new level! I've been needing a mill for 10 years now and it's finally a reality. It may be the one I wanted but it's definitely the one I can use! Update! I managed to get the lower pulley in "hard anodize" color the other day. It really needed to be over black instead of silver to darken it up some but that's OK. The anodize fades some after a while of being in the elements and use so it will be fine! So I assembled the crank hub, degree wheel and the supercharger pulley for good! The crank stub, timing cover and seal retainer are also in for good. I can't install the crank drive till I finish up the cam cover however as it slips behind the drive pieces. The crank support hub has to wait until the crank bolt is in before I can install it. Hurry up mill! The engine assembly will actually be pretty quick as most of it is printed just waiting on paint and detailing. Paul

Beautiful model Mark! Really came out well and appreciate the history lesson also. ( I enjoy the history of the actual vehicles as much as the models itself!)

Got to agree with Bob here. I know the goal but please don't rush it. It will be finished up in time. I've learned the hard way when you rush it, you are just not happy with the results. And when it's a labor of love such as this piece of art you have created it makes it all the more disappointing. BUT, please finish it before GSL lol. Because if I can manage to get the Chevelle finished before GSL 27, not only do I not want to have to compete against it, to have both models on the table would be Marks nightmare! lol. Wait....maybe we should finish at the same time time..... haha Seriously though, can't rush perfection and sometimes it takes a step back to keep from getting to the point you are at. Life throws its little wrenches in there too. Just breathe brother. In time, good things come.

That pedal is a work of art Tim! I may have to try that plating kit. Will it plate aluminum also or just brass? Paul

Well, Managed to get back in the room for a bit and sit at the lathe. I machined the crank bolt and once the indexing attachment for the Unimat shows up with the mill post assembly I can mill the flats into it. Then I will have a machined crank bolt! Man, this stuff needs to show up now! lol

Thank you guys! I am really pleased with it so far. I haven't been working on it the last few days though, or anything else for that matter........because I am looking for a mill! LOL. I actually pondered on it quite a bit and have decided to hold off on purchasing a dedicated milling machine as I would really like to find a bigger used Bridgeport or something of that size. (there are other things I am into besides modeling and I can always use a mill!) So, armed with that thinking I decided to purchase the mill parts to convert the Unimat into a lathe / mill setup. I've purchased the indexing table for it already and have bid on a mill post setup. One of the things that steered me this way is that this mill was gifted to me from a dear friend's wife after he passed. It's the perfect hobby lathe for smaller projects and I feel it's better to get even more use out of the machine than to sideline it for a new mill. The lathe is never going anywhere anyway and I will keep it operating as long as I can. With this I can now start making all the necessary bolt heads for this model and the WIlliams FW14B that has taken a back seat due to needing a small fortune in RB Motion bolts. (there's also a half assembled 1/12 935 Porsche that requires things machined such as Half shaft parts ect.) I also been looking at other accessories for it like a rotary table and stuff. Up side to this route is also the fact that I can purchase a few bits of tooling and be able to use it sooner rather than later. Paul

We almost have "FIRE IN THE HOLE!"

No problem, I may go ahead and make one anyway just because then it will be available.

Not wanting to step on any toes but I do not think that intake is true to scale. I believe it was created to specifically for his own 440 in 1/16. I do not know how scaled his engine is or for that matter how close yours is as I have not compared to a real one. I have a tunnel ram for a 383 sitting in the model room I can use for the flange pattern. I would need to know the base engine you are using and create a whole new part according to YOUR specific engine. This way it would fit without issues. I doubt it would be 9 bucks to do it. My 481x block I drew up has way more material on it than that intake and its 28.00. You can see the parts Ive done here in the forums in the drag section under 69 Chevelle pro mod

Randy, Thank you! Hope to see you in Salt Lake! Not making it to DSC. Have to work that weekend. Dave, I can't stop smiling! Lol. Your help has allowed me to get it finished up! There's still some things to finish up like the oil pump but I can at least get the basic long block put together for GSL so people can see it on display. I managed to sand out the issues in the block and get it painted it's final color. I used silver leaf from Tamiya in spray can as this is the closest I can come to a billet style finish. Heat tends to tarnish the metal in the real world a bit so it's a win win! I may go in and dirty it up once it is assembled to make it look like it's been ran. I also sprayed the base silver (same as the block) on the supercharger crank pulley so all it needs now is the "hard anodize" color on it. Still need to work on the cam cover/ fuel pump extension some more before I can assemble the short block for good. I've been also working on cleaning up the heads and oil pan to get them ready for assembly. The one head is done but still need to do the other one. I will have to machine some dowel pins to register the heads. I would also like to make some "copper" head gaskets for it. (thanks Chris for that little detail! Paul

Tim, all I can say phenomenal work my friend! That chassis is a work of art! Paul

Thank you guys! I can't believe it's finally here. I now need to scale it to other scales. Some of it will have to be combined to if I want it available in 1/25 scale. Most of the timing cover and such will probably be all one piece. Nice thing about larger scales is the detail you can add as it goes up in scale. In 25th scale I will probably have to add the hardware into the solid model to make it work and not have to worry about the bolts in that scale. Just have to see. Not too sure if the degree wheel will be printable or not though and that may be something that might have to be photo etched to still be there. So I machined the crankshaft stub this afternoon. Wasn't too hard to do. I really need to look into some tooling for this lathe. Have the tooling will help greatly in machining the parts I require but I make do with what I have. Still looking into mills at the moment though. Probably have to wait on the rotary table for a bit however. Various stages of machining the crank stub. Front half. Now keep in mind I took a print from a Chrysler Hemi crank and used that and modified the back of it obviously to work with my engine. I still need to machine the seal retainer but that's a project for tomorrow. The back half of the crank stub which registers with the hole in the block. In the block it sits! And the stack up of parts to make the assembly within the block.

Well, the 481x in1/16 scale is finally a reality! Need to do up the supercharger manifold but it's close at last!

Indexing head! Would love to watch it in use....hint hint... (video) lol. Ive never used one but Ive watched videos on them. So when you did your form, how much clearance did you give it for the aluminum?. Just the thickness of the aluminum sheet? Paul

I really miss my GLHS Omni. I kind of miss the 04 GTO but the BMW 335i has been a somewhat suitable replacement so its easier. (Gto was totalled when a kid in a pos celica pulled out across the front of me.)

Thanks guys! I may just do that. We'll the parts were delivered to the house......and I'm in Boise Idaho lol. At least the block will be there when I get home. Boy am I impatient now...

Check with TDR on Shapeways. I know they offer one in 1/8 so it may be available in other scales. Paul

I thought about the body in carbon fiber with Yenko stripes. (it's a the way a real one is done up) I'm not trying to copy it as a replica but I do like the way it looks! That would be a fortune in carbon fiber decal though!

dump the k member and use elephant ears to mount the engine. Then straight axle away!

Some fuel blocks had hollow cross bolts bought through KB to feed extra oli to the mains. (Thats why revell fc and dragster kits have the 3 lines going from the pump to the skirt of the block. KB aluminum fuel "stage" blocks are a side oiler design to give mains priority oiling. The passage is on the driver side and has ports tapped and plugged typically. With this design or the hollow cross bolt, you can pull pressure readings from the side like he has it. *Edit* as a bit of additional info, the block has the be drilled through to the main saddle to use the oil feed bolts. Because kb's are designed this way from the start, there may not actually be a passage on top of the bellhousing like a stock block. Its been a while since I've touched a kb so I don't remember.