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Everything posted by SfanGoch
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How am I strip paint off a model car body
SfanGoch replied to fordlover632's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
As I told Jonathan, I can only speak from the results I got. It does eat through multiple layers of paint and primer, though. I had to strip off multiple layers of primer and paint (enamel, lacquer and acrylic) from a 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger hul and it came out clean. Try it and see. It's only an 8 buck outlay. You spend more than that on a set of AM tires. -
How am I strip paint off a model car body
SfanGoch replied to fordlover632's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I'm a big proponent of better and faster, Jonathan. I gives me more time to do other useless things. -
How am I strip paint off a model car body
SfanGoch replied to fordlover632's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I only can speak from the results I get. I've used the other things in the past and have never gotten results as good as from ELO. -
How am I strip paint off a model car body
SfanGoch replied to fordlover632's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
That's too much unnecessary work. This is the '53 Ford body using only ELO and very little, if any, elbow grease: You're not getting that from Super Clean in 20 minutes. And, like I said, you don't need a tub full of ELO to get it done. -
How am I strip paint off a model car body
SfanGoch replied to fordlover632's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I gotta split this reply up due ton that annoying "404 Error" nonsense. Remember the Lindberg '53 Ford Victoria I was converting into a '52 Mainline Business coupe/NYPD RMP? When I bought it as an open box sale item, the body and hood were sprayed with a bright neon green lacquer over the unprimed plastic. I brushed ELO on the parts and within 20 minutes, the paint was wrinkled. I removed it per the previous post; and, after reapplying ELO to remove any remaining paint residue, the parts were bright and white. ELO works better than Super Clean, Purple Pond, brake fluid, oven cleaner. You don't need to submerge the parts, as with the other stuff. Youalsondon't have to wait hours, days or weeks. -
How am I strip paint off a model car body
SfanGoch replied to fordlover632's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yes it does and you can get it from Active Powersports for $8.36 plus shipping. You only need to brush it on, not submerge the body/parts. In about 10-20 minutes, the paint starts to wrinkle. Using a nylon toothbrush and some dishwashing liquid, scrub the paint off under running warm water to remove the gunk. Reapply ELO if there is any remaining residue. -
How am I strip paint off a model car body
SfanGoch replied to fordlover632's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Verkakt "404" nonsense. -
Iconic cars not kitted
SfanGoch replied to Greg Myers's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yeah.....right. New York City streets will have them for lunch. Literally. Truck front ends get torn up hitting potholes here. -
Matte and Satin Black
SfanGoch replied to porschercr's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Depends on what your going to paint. Matt, semi-gloss and satin finishes have different properties. Matt finishes are dull and flat, with no reflectivity or sheen. Semi-gloss finishes, as the name implies, are less shiny than gloss finishes/paints. Satin finishes are below semi-gloss in terms of sheen and reflectivity. If you want a dead flat finish for areas like floor pans, headliners, wheel well interiors or fabric upholstery, use matt/flat paint. If you want a semi-gloss finish, like on frame rails and other specific chassis components, then use a semi-gloss paint. To replicate vinyl/leather in a car interior, use a satin finish paint or satin clear coat over glossy, semi-gloss or flat/matt. -
Iconic cars not kitted
SfanGoch replied to Greg Myers's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
It might vary from person to person; but, the term is usually used in an incorrect context. The criteria to define iconic design is as follows: "An iconic design is usually a design that is ‘ground breaking’ and one that sets new standards in its field. It is a design that other designers and manufacturers follow, as it becomes a bench mark for other similar products. Furthermore, an iconic design is one that stands up to the test of time, remaining a good design, despite the passing of years, decades and even centuries." Apologies to hot rod enthusiasts and show car fans but none of those cars come remotely close to meeting any of the criteria for being described as "iconic". -
Nice! In contrast to what others say about this kit, I like it.
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So do a lot of guys. Seriously though, I've got bottles of both purchased in the mid '70s and they still do what they're supposed to do. I also have new stock which isn't worth a plug nickel. In bothy our cases, it could be a bad production lot.
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Hokay, Meester.
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Do you want me to send you an Easy Chromed bumper so you can decide? I've got your address,
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Check yer inbox, Mike.
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If you really want to send the bumper/grille, no problem Mike. No need to pay me or for return postage, either. I'll do it just because. I'll PM my address to you. I'll let you know exactly when it arrives; then, I'll do the same with tracking info when I mail it back.
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Yeah buddy! I like to see my meat hemorrhage when a stick a knife in it, too. Otherwise, you might as well resole your shoes with it.
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You do understand that this refers to large non-model kit applications like car/truck rims, bike helmets, etc.? Look at the speed shape in my photo. One coat of the urethane basecoat and one coat of Easy Chrome. That's it. It doesn't get any easier. But hey, if you want to spend 50+ bucks to re-plate a couple of bumpers/grilles, then maybe wait a couple of weeks to get them back, who am I to tell you how to spend your money? I took a chance after reading the thread Pete J. posted about it in OTL and am satisfied that it does as advertised. Pete J's results: Quoting Pete: "Yes, I did some of the chrome work with a brush just to see how it would work." Nuff said. His pic says it all. Addendum: When applying Easy Chrome with an airbrush, spray very light, misting coats until you see the mirror-like finish appear. Stop at this point and don't apply further coats.
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Literally one, thin coat applied with a paint brush. Easy Chrome has the viscosity of water; so, it can't be sloshed on like, for example, acrylic or enamel paint because it isn't paint. The carrier is lacquer-based. Airbrush application is even thinner.