stitchdup

the item on the left is a hook for holding your eyes open during zoom meetings but usually comes as part of a pair, and can also be used for fishing in the office goldfish tank in hanger prevention emergencies. works best with longer hair

I wouldn't normally post something i've printed myself in here but i'm pleased to finally have a 37 lincoln. its scaled down from a multi piece rc body by macone1 on cults. i've got some parts printing again but thats down to me and not the files. there are seperate trim for the headlights, and the hood, fender trim and rear lights are included with it. some parts didn't come out 100% but if this was a damaged plastic kit we would fix it so parts that could be used will be repaired instead of dumped. i could have done this as a rag top also but for now i want a coupe. i've got independent suspension already printed for this and since i dont have a lincoln v12 yet i'm using a merlin ls7. oops, this isn't a build thread, can you tell i'm excited lol

my windows swing out from the side. to get it to work i'd have 3 sides to block and the less said about my neighbours down the street, the better

that would be ideal but the landlord wont like me cutting holes in the window

i'd glue some thin sheet to the bottom then fill it

I'm lining up parts to make my third attempt at a 37 lincoln and i'm hoping to find something similar to this as its something a lot of my fav lincolns have. I've read through every feature i can find and none mention where they are from. the one pictured is obviously all custom but the others have a more stock look which is what i am hoping to find. my trys at scratching some haven't turned out nice enough to use in the past. i didn't have a clear pic of the more stock appearing part so the pic is just an example

i just need a west or south wind so i can open the booth window. when its in the north ot east it blows through the vent pipe and defeats the purpose of the booth

wind power began the industrial revolution but coal sped it up

this one prints out nice, maybe more of a detroit show car style though but it simple to narrow if you shorten the drive shaft and lower brace in the slicer https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/billet-irs-jag-rear-end-with-quick-change-centre

i love the out of the box thinking on this, it kinda reminds of the old thunder saloon race series over here in the uk, where a vauxhall viva might really be a lola can am car or a bug might be more f1 car

the only other birds of prey around me are hawks and owls but they are smaller than folk think. the seagulls are bigger than most of them. its impressive to watch them hunt though they miss more than nature documentaries would make us believe, lol

i've edited it for you

saw a big bird of prey the other day but it was out on the water. i'm sure its one of the sea eagles thats been nesting on the island of hoy. i thought it was big when i first saw it but it just seemed to get bigger so i must have noticed it from a distance. their due to start breeding soon as their a young couple but i only saw one

just send me a pm with your email. we'll work it out from there. sorry i took so long to reply, the notification only came through tonight

I tend to print 2 or 3 of the parts i know will warp at various angles when i do a print. for example i printed 3 roofs and 5 grilles for a 37 lincoln yesterday and 5 sun visors. i only did one of each the first time and none turned out decent. you can straighten prints after curing too if you use near boiling water and have very chilled wet cloth but it wont work on thick parts. i've been getting more good results with jayo resin than i did with anycubic resin. the area the printer in needs more heat with it though, the anycubic was more forgiving on temperature. the jayo is half the price too but i couldn't get it for my next resin, so i'm trying creality resin after seeing some good reviews.

beer is just a bread smoothie

just say they are air b+bs, that seems to get anything classed as a house

explosion proof and explosion resistant are not the same thing,

i completely forgot to post pics of the print so here they are front and back. printed in jayo resin at 0.03 layer height on an anycubic m3 max. files from nahunel customs/ditomaso on cults. one of these will be on my icm model a once tamiya paint is back in the local shop

i thought this was already out, i'm sure i've see it in a couple shops. i'll still need to get one though if just for the new lower grille as i dont recall it in the un bus or camper

the sealer wont always stop the orange or red getting through (especially on the revell t2 vw buses), but silver paint works every time.

apparently he heard a noise inside a hollow tree trunk and stuck his head in to look

machine to rage against include any that dont work and just as many that do work

This is how i lower tamiya bugs and ghias. there are files for 3d printed dropped axles but the tamiya bugs dont really need them if you have a small drill bit. the only added parts are the sewing pins and 20mm elastic. i start by drilling through the axle end of the suspension arms until the depth passes the shock mount on the axle (7mm) and then remove the suspension arms from the axle. take care not to mix them up. next we need to have the wheels we want to fit as anything wider than stock is going to need the axle narrowed also so now is the time to do it. i usually remove the bars on the axle between the shock and first upright then use the shock mount to line up for drilling the axle. you need these cuts to be square or the suspension wont work. now when you go to fit the underhood piece to the tamiya you will find it no longer fits over the axle, but dont worry as the bottom of the underhood piece has a lip around the edge which once removed means the parts fit again. for the wheel hubs i drill through them from top to bottom and glue in some elastic (i tried rubber bands but the glue made them brittle) and now drill out the outer ends of the suspension arms for mounting the elastic to. i leave the shock fitment until last on the floorpan as it can be used to ensure it sits level and usually means nicking much shorter ones from something else or scratching them. on this axle i have removed the shock towers as its a fair bit narrower. of course the other option for a narrowed axle is to rob it out of the old 1/25 revell kits before drilling the suspension arms removed and back together with pins (dont forget to rough up the pins before gluing) and there we go, we now have a modern styled front suspension for a dropped bug

thats an awesome build,