stitchdup

plastruct certainly used to have 2 sizes but you'll probably find normal styrene rod easier to work with and attach.

I've done the first round of filler primer. 3 heavy coats followed by a 320 tamiya sponge and its looking better now. its still got lots of texture showing but its starting to feel smoother. next step will be more primer then a 600 sponge. I've also now got a 3d file for a type 3 floorpan so i think i'm going to print it and the blackbox porsche engine along with the front and rear suspension from the blackbox beach buggy and thus save the bug kit. Now if i could just get the lights drilled out.....

if you plan to walk a mile in another mans shoes make sure you have smaller feet

Somebody in indonesia has built a 1/1 of one of you guys models. i tried to find the build to link to this but had no luck. the model was in pastel blue and white and it stuck in my memory so i recognised this straight away

yes, models are very popular in japan. moon even have model sections at their japanese shows and the big hrcs yokohama show

morlocks, morlocks we need morlocks shouted the bank manager

got some primer on this morning so now i can get started on the filler. you can see how i've reshaped the cruiser rear to be more bug shaped better now

well with the state of the body for this i've changed up my build order. i figure theres no point building the chassis if the body looks awful so i'm priming today. 3 coats in and it still looks like a sponge. at least i dont have to worry about paint runs yet

fixed it, thanks

its not sanding. i've used p40 with no visible effects. i tried to drill out the lights and its the same story, barely left a dimple. i'm trying diamond files next and if that dosn't work probably a rasp at this rate, lol. this might actually be printed in my mums soup cos its the only thing as tough as this i've worked with.

i was hoping toget some paint on the bug wagon today but its too cold to open the windows so while i was looking for something else i found a forgotten 3d print that i believe is a sandford design originally and may have been sold by tdr innovations on shapeways but when i looked to buy another it was gone from the list. This is an older 3d print and i'm not sure what material it is printed in. it has a strange texture that i'm hoping wont be too difficult to smooth off. i'll be using some scale production fuchs in a suitably modern size as i'm just not feeling the empi rims on the pic. I'll probably not be going black either as i think i'll struggle to get the body nice enough for black but we can revisit that decision later. since the printed body is very thin i might be adding door structure to strengthen around the screen as it looks ready to break already and the doors are already open. i'll be using a tamiya bug donor and probably a 911 dash i'll have to scratch the door and side panels

a spyker c8 but a lot of the interior would need to be pe

its better to keep your mouth shut and be thought a fool, than to open it and remove all doubt the loudest person in a room is usually the dumbest too dont let your mind wander unless you're sure it will come back

I think I'm ready for filler on the body. because i use an automotive acrylic stopper filler i'll give it a coat of primer first so it works at its best. the interior is nearly ready for paint but i think i'll make up the glass first as the rear of the interior is sitting lower than i'd like but a couple of spacers might fix that, and the glass from the kit prob wont fit but i'll try cutting the front door glass away at the plastic trim. there might be a small gap above the door shut doing this but it will give me stock trim to start from and should mean only making the rear side glass, but if the gaps too big i can always open the door glass. the black rubbers i might add to the body so the glass has somewhere to sit. and i've bagged it so it sits low. this made dropping the suspension really simple as the struts are joined inside the bags and only meant trimming the rear helper springs and adding a couple spacers to the front struts. i just need some decent weather to paint now

yeah, there was a white one that got featured and one that looked like saloon version of a starlet

you can probably blame street machine mag for these going racing. they featured and built a few in the 90s just before the hotrod guys started bying them up.

i think it looks like andrei bezrodney recent kit, theres 4 doors and wagon versions too

if you try the two blade, i'd use box cutter blades instead of exacto. the exacto blades wont give you much thicker than a thread while the box cutter is a little thicker

happy birthday

fingernail art tape. as thin as bmf and in hundreds of colours and styles for about 5-10 bucks for 50 assorted rolls. it can be bent around corners if you work slowly. 1mm wide and 5 metre long. If you do go for it, i suggest buying 2 packs to be sure you dont run out as buying single colours is more expensive. some of them have an engine turned effect on the chrome that is very effective when dull coated.

I like it, and imight just try something similar. thanks for sharing it

so your telling me the wind in the uk isn't at 15,000 mph and the temp isn't 400 degrees https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c0kjrp2rngzo

its better to regret something you have done than something you haven't mistakes are just a part of life, thats why pencils have rubbers n the end

for me as i'm getting older, its never trust a fart.

i'll use a guide coat if i've done lots of bodywork and use filler primer, and i usually use ground up chalk/charcoal as it shows pinholes better than a paint guide coat but the final go is paint once i'm sure the pinholes are gone. if its normal primer i dont usually bother though