stitchdup

i build according to my mood at the time. mostly its heavily inspired by something else but rarely is it an actual car. the closest i get to recreating a car is probably box stock and even then i just go for colours i like. in the last few months i've probably built or in the process of building something from each decade since the 1920s (i think that might be the first time i've had to specify the century on that, lol)

https://www.streetcar.org/cablecars/16-no-16-muni-blueyellow/ https://www.cablecarmuseum.org/cablecars.html

enjoying watching this come together. when i did my 50 i chopped the tops off the tyres to get it lowered

enough time and an ape could type shakespeare was a recent scientific experiment

i just think the humbrol matches older cars better. the old clear plastics weren't as crisp as modern clear plastic

you sent off on a dive Bill, this was a find you might like https://hymanltd.com/vehicles/6610-1951-crosley-lemans-race-car/

I finished up the hood vents this afternoon and then i added fins to the bed. I've done them oversize for now as i want to soften the edges and they wont stick out the back as much or be quite so pointed either.

the lower item is wile e coyote's early attempts at shoe soles to aid in catching road runner

i'd cut it fairly close then wrap some sandpaper around a tyre or tube to do the last wee bit. i'd probably have the chassis in place too so the body doesn't flex too much as it can alter th shape

i'll see what i have, i know i have fies for distributors but i might not have a coil

if you can find files for the items i would be happy to print again for you.

also, the humbrol clears are not enamel, they are celulose paints

i like the humbrol clears for older cars. their orange has that slight brown tinge like older lenses from the mid 70s back and the red is a little darker. for newer cars i like the tamiya clears. they just look more modern and less dirty

most of the slicer programs need at least an 8 gig processor to run. i have an 8 gig and it does the job but it can occaisonally hang so i should have gone bigger. if you can hold on until january you can get better deals than you would now as the computer is the most expensive part of printing

i'm just going to pre emptively lock this before anybody gets bans. I've been a member long enough to see how it always goes. Please dont start any similar topics,

well the saw has been out and its not a foose now. i will do the other side of the hood once this side has set up some. i didn't want to do both sides so i can hopefully save the ford centre. the louvres are from the extra revell merc hood.

I have run out of superglue and i dont like to be without something to putter around with so i've pulled this onto the bench. The plan is swap some parts from the revell merc (wheels and engine) and use an amt parts pack for the front end changes. i might swap the seat for one from the monogram 36 coupe too as it looks more suited to the look i want

would you consider an 18 inch version to use your hubcaps? they seem to be fairly popular in the real world but they only seem to be in 20+ inch rims as prints. also the hot water trick works but on delicate parts its best after alcohol washing but before curing. you need hotter water than you would use for warped styrene. and if your rinsing in the sink, dont forget to put the plug in. i've lost many small parts down the drain

spam is an original ingredient for spaghetti carbonara which may sound italian but was really made from us army rations in post war italy

its pretty cool looking, but leaning the c pillar forward would clean up the look. that one vertical line takes away from the flow of the body and makes it look slower

theres a few files on cults. dnsvm might be a good designer to start with. they recently started some 70s mustang parts but there are other designers with them too, nahunal custom/detomaso47 would be another designer to look for. they do a lot of small detail parts for older body styles

a little more progress. i decided to print a type 3 pan after all. i'm still using the tamiya front suspension but will have tp scratch the rear arms. i tried those from the blackbox beach buggy but they were too long. i also printed some seats and have deepened the trim. it looks o in the pics but all the detail id fairly subtle. and after trying the engine and wheels i found the wheels to be too wide so i've printed some rotiform rims that will fit. if the porsche rims were plastic or resin i would have cut them down but since they are ali i'll save them for something else. this means new brakes too

it mixes together well for an interesting effect. i like to add a pinch or 2 of similar shades when i do flocking. it gives the carpet a little more effect

it cant go as bad as the movie brad pitt? is doing about f1. they had to start filming over again because the cars changed so all the footage was wasted. over a year of filming gone

why not just start with filler primer and save your self some sanding. even the finest layer height is keyed enough for primer and the first coat of filler primer just undoes your sanding anyway. but would suggest using proline high build primer if you can get it. it works much faster than the other brands and is safe with tamiya and auto acrylics