stitchdup

i like your vision for this, looking forward to more

your taxi has reminded me off one on the island i grew older on. the north ronaldsay bird observatory used one for ringing birds after their 70s fiat van crumbled away. it was in the lairds garden almost hidden by flower bushed but at one point it had the highest number of non native species ringed. i remember even as a child noticing how thick the metal was on the doors. i'll have to hunt out some pics

after the flooding over here and in florida, ev fires were a big issue. then theres the fires after accidents or whatever. it seems the safest place for the battery might be strapped in the seat beside you cos at least thats safety tested. its almost like evs are laughing at hydrogen, lol

movie that are terrible can also be strangely enjoyable

animals are delicious when prepared correctly which usually means dont tell them they are going to be dinner

well i got her ready for some colour. i did a tamiya semi gloss black base which i let dry, then i started the body prep by hiting it with some 240 sanding sticks. doing this acted as guide coat for the next layer which is citadel abadon black which again got sanded but with an old 600 sponge this time. next was various citadel browns and ak rusts dry brushed on, going against the grain of the print. this fills the grain fairly fast, and was again flatted with the 600. i did this twice using one brush that was left dirty each time. i might give it one last sand and dry brushing before the colour goes on. I also started detailing the seat by supergluing fluff on the common worn areas. i have an idea for how to make it look duct taped up.

the main problem with electric car fires is water wont put them out and since the batteries are mstly sealed the correct extinguishing products dont get where they need to go. on this side of the pnd they get put in sealed containers once extinguished as they often relight hours or days later. if the manufacurers actually finished designing and testing instead of rushing to the market this would be less of an issue. you'd think the pinto would have taught them some lessons but since everything is being treated as tech we get unfinished products instead but hey its got wifi and thats what matters right?

wouldn't the back end of one of these look great on a bulletbird for a custom build

no and neither are the slicers used to prep the files for printing. its the format they are saved as that matters

I didn't make it to paint today as i still needed to make a firewall (done) and panel the rear of the interior. I also used some marine electrical connectors for the ram pipes and started detailing the engine. i still need to mod the front wheel backs to tuck them in a little more as they are just a smidgen too wide just now. the firewall will tuck up once the chassis is glued on/

i thought about it but it would spoil the lines. instead i'll use a different non supercharged version of the v12 in the coupe so it fits under the hood. this one now has a blackbox 572 in it

theres a 3d print of the talbot horizon which is the same car

i can rarely make tamiya decals work either. i recently built the toyoda aa and every decal fell apart. your first dash will clean up with some isopropyl alcohol and a couple q-tips

i cant see them either. you can load your pics directly on the forum which avoids needing a pic host

i've seen some of those built up and detailed. they can look really good with a little extra added

Well i wish i could say its third time lucky on the engine but this is the 5th i've assembled today. both lincolns and the ford predator were too tall, the merlin ls7 hit the fenders but i had a stash of engines i printed ages ago that included some of the blackbox 572s. i went for the crossram induction simply because i think it looks cool and a little more filling in the bay but i'll be using electrical connectors instead of the printed ram pipes. I've included pics to show the frenzel and why it wont work I'm mostly treating the convertible as practise for the coupe, and will be brush painting it all as i find weathering and aging easier by brush.

if you check packaging for electronics you should find something to work for the glass. ask in a phone repair shop and they will have some great packaging. samsung screens and parts in particular come in crystal clear smooth packaging with all the corners rounded that wold work perfect for this glass.

if your first paint job is decent and not fresh you should be able to just wet n dry it to use as a base for the enamel. obviously do a test first for compatibility but i find most enamels can be used over other paints

had to do something with the axles as they were a little too simplfied and the drums made them both too wide for the body. but i had leftovers from the failed 32 that i figured would work on this. for the rear axle i just trimmed the ends of the axle and pinned the drums on. at the front i've glues the drums on but will be trimming them back to just leave the rear edge of the drums. this should look fairly convincing once painted and detailed. i need to figure out where to mount the shockers next as the lincoln fenders limit where they can go. they might end up being the last parts fitted front axle before front axle parts donor

you could have a search on cults3d. theres a few bike kits that might have what you need. i would recomend buying a printer if your going to be building larger scales as buying from vendors could be very expensive. for example, a 1/16 wheel uses nearly 3 times the resin of a 1/24 so a front and rear wheel may cost as much as a used printer would

funnily enough i did a very quick rough test yesterday and it looks like it would work, looking at it the cowl of the mongram would need cut to get the zephyr top on but the rest is pretty close.

well i got it mocked up and found i need to do a little narrowing if i want to fit brakes with the wheels. i can mod the wheel backs but will have to enlarge the rear to go over the drums. i'm using brakes from the wrecked 32 coupe so they dont go to waste. at the front this means a bit more work but i think it will be worth it. swapping the gearbox worked too so now the v12 fits. nothing is glued together yet but all the main parts fit though the drivers door gap needs a little work at the rear corner. They both have fresh chassis now too after my mods to fit the other gearboxes meant the kit one had nowhere to fit. i'll need to do more work in the bay to level out the engine but there is space to do it. This one will be frenzel blown. i'll be making up new door panels and interior walls so the top looks like it should be there and i think i have the jump seats and heater unit from a revell 40 ford that should work in this. the aim for this one is a lowrider bomb. since the trunk open but has nothing in it i'll be making up a floor for it too. the firewall will need a lot of work

If any of you have netflix the new Senna series is well worth a watch. Plenty race action that looks fairly convincing. The background story isn't sensationalised either. I'm 2 episodes into it and i've really enjoyed it so far

got em, cheers

i like that it saves any compatibility problems. i've found some hobby fillers dont stick to the bare resin very well so i borrowed the nail light from my sister to do a test and it worked. it also helps to take the twist out of the body as it wasn't as square as it should have been. to fix the twist i taped the body to a flat board before starting so once the resin cured it stayed straight. i did the same with the chassis. tbh i'm surprised it did so well as i've only used this method on resin pinholes before.