stitchdup

it wasn't aimed at anyone. it was badly worded on my part but it was in no way aimed at anyone. i meant theres a lot of people complaining about the way hpiguy does his vids while they hold a decent camera in their hand.

vw beetle

if you dont like what you see you could always make your own if you think you can handle criticism. cameras are getting cheaper all the time so whats the excuse?

I think Rolls Royce have the widest number of unusual options. If you can think of something, no matter how bizarre, they will add it. Whether its being able to have the starlight headliner showing how the sky looked on the night you were born in the current ghosts or the ridiculously ostentatious cars for the Majharasha's and sheiks that can include anything from a falcon roost to a raisable seat for shooting. And most of these could also be ordered on range rovers at one time or another

it looks good but i think you need to make up some side bolsters for the seat. if you have the stock seat still you could trim the ends from it and smooth them in to the existing bolsters

the white pearl needs a white primer or base coat to work best. its a very transparent paint

theres a resin kit of the lotus cortina mk1. https://www.themotormuseuminminiature.co.uk/our-products.php

Thats a cool looking porker, the wheels look rigt at home and along with the colour makes it look a lot more modern

ammo and mig both have a range of faded primary colours

the road cars are jumping in value in europe just now. a basic non quattro version starts at around 5k for a decent project car and starts at 35 for a good one. its not that long since they could be picked up for a few hundred to 1500 for a quattro.

duplicolour needs a little extra gass out time when using tamiya over it. I tend to give it an extra day to reduce this happening. since this has happened you wont be able to use tamiya clear over it as it will just get worse. it has happened to me too and there didn't seem to be any reason with it, 2 parts from the same kit using the same paints and one turned out like yours and the other was fine

just search aoshima countach and you should get some answers. scalemates doesn't really search specific kits well but if you generalise the search a bit you get more results.

for the handle you really want one you are most comfortable using, and a fresh blade. i like 10 or 11 exacto blades but really whichever you have the most comfort and control with will be best. a couple q-tips and cocktail sticks are useful too for burnishing it down and getting the foil into tighter corners

i challenge you to do that in the local town of stromness, of course of you dont care about the car it makes it much simpler, lol

dip it in HOT water before you try removing the parts and work slowly. you may need to dip 2 or 3 times but the hot water makes them easier to remove. it looks daunting but its just a different sprue layout really. i would mark the parts too as once you start removing items it becomes easy to miss a part. take your time and you'll be fine and if a part doesn't came away easily dont force it. if you need to cut the attacments se a fine tooth saw, too big a teeth can catch and chip bits off

got another revell vw t1 bus, a revell weathering set and a small adjustable vice. my sister is pushing me to build as maby vw van types as possible for the next vintage show

more stock builds than normal for me but they had their reasons for building

built from the revell snap kit but i had to use the rear hatch from one of the buses as the kit one was far too big to fit which was odd. you'll notice the bumpers are black because thats how mine was. this is because mine didn't start life as a camper but as a work van. at some point in its life someone cut windows from a bus in the side and fitted a devon interior. i'll be building a correct version of this for myself (wrong bumpers and front lights) as this one is my mums christmas. we had many holidays in this van and got engine swaps down to ten mins which wasn't bad as i was 18 and my dad only had one working hand

after building the convertible i had enough parts left to build another fujimi mini. i styled this after my sisters old mini but used some japanese rims. i wanted to give the new mini a more old school look and a spent a fair bit of time getting the tyre to arch gap even for a different take on a stanced car. they dont ave to be slammed, its all about the tyre gap, lol

i built this the weekend before the vintage rally in august because my aunt (cars owner) was feeling forgotten while everybody was rushing about getting ready. i didn't tell anybody it was in my display and i dont think she even noticed until i pointed it out to her, lol. its a fujimi kit with the top from an academy kit. i would have built the academy kit but it had the wrong body shape so i got a couple fujimi kits. why 2 you ask? the bumpers were in one kit and the wheels in another. swapping the tops wasn't easy either as remember the bodies were different shapes so i very carefully removed the glass mount area from the academy body and grafted it into the fujimi body. this part was 4mm at its widest so it was slow going. the interior uses the fujimi dash and tub with the rear and sides from the academy kit. i started this on the monday with a friday show deadline so some corners were cut

they were getting 500+ from the 1.3 turbo versions of this engine in the 70s. not sure they would last the race though

theres a few differences. the engine induction set up and suspension are change. now i think about it the 4 pot would be a better engine choice

pj's can lead to some comedic typos

i tink i'll be in with a italeri ford escort mk2. it will have a heavy engine set back to improve the handling which should fit within the rules as german touring cars did it around that time. i've got a ford v6 around here somewhere but i'll have to check if its a cologne or essex engine.

the old tool is 1/25 while this is 1/24