stitchdup

theres a nice looking one for printing. the designer is digitalsurface

on this side of the pond trimmers are for beards, i had wild visions in my head of why it would need an engine, lol

I bought the files from nitrolab3d on cults but the parts are also available from blackbox to fit the revell kit. I didn't have the revell kit so i got the 1/24 kit. It all printed great though i reprinted a few parts to lose some support marks. The fit on everything is great but i didn't push the dash in far enough so now the cage wont fit so i left it loose. The doors would work but again due to the dash they wouldn't stay shut so i glued the locks to keep them in place. The kit also has all the holes there if you want to detail it up with brake pipes but i didn't do that. The only thing i found irritating is the chassis is all one piece which made painting the shocks awkward and there is no rad. I built it without fixing these things but now i've built it I want to do a detailed version some time. Paint is duplicolour and tamiya

if its 1/20 i'll no be buying one

they didn't last long in my area. rust made them snap in front of the back seat as karmann decided that the best place for the drain holes for the roof was under carpet instead of in the wheel arch. they rusted along the joins until all that was holding them together was the sills and quarters. its a shame cos they were good cars and can make reat resto mods due to the massive ford scene in europe and how simple it is to put modern engines in them. i remember a white on white one that just looked like the coolest car to ten year old me but miami vice was on tv then so that might have been an influence too

i'd look for dirty or corroded contacts or even a loose wire. if it worked once its probably nothing too serious

sausage is square in scotland

the tractor clarkson should have bought

I used to help my friend in his auto electric shop. he mainly rebuilt them as being an island means delivery takes a while. we had one guy that had a mildly tuned mk1 mr2. the alternator was tight up behind the drivers seat and bigger than anu of the gaps around it so swapping it meant dismantling the turbo technics kit and engine mounts to make space. we suggested relocating it somewhere with less heat soak but he was adamant that wouldn't work. we pointed out the only other option was to make an inspection panel behind the back seat as 95% of his bill was the dismantling and reassembly. the next time he turned up there was 2 very roughly cut holes behind the driver seat as he cut the first one near the floor when the alternator was by his shoulder, lol. I chucked his mess of a panel away and used one from a bus to neaten it up but it saved him 12 hours of wasted time. i still think moving the alternator to the other side would have been better but it is what it is

I never thought i'd be buying a tapestry but here we are. this hung in either my great aunt or grannies house and when i found it in a junk shop i just had to buy it as they both had dementia so this is something of theirs that doesn't have sad memories assosiated with it. either way it was done by granny as she gave these as gifts. when i picked it up today my sisters words cant be posted but i'm sure you can guess them, lol.

Thats the good revell bug

dont use alcohol, it will mess up the paint

and Norn but everybody forgets about it. for example a fluffy baabaa isn't a sheep like you'd think but in fact a rabbit. a lot of its close to english but j and k are interchangable when its spoken. in a lot of ways its very close to jamaican but really its old norse mixed with norman english with a bit of irish gaelic. I can hold a conversation in norn but i can only understand about half of it. My grandparents era was when english got more widely spoken on the north isles and foula still speaks it first but its in the middle of nowhere off shetland

the pics not showing

The tamiya bug would be my first choice as its by far the best bug kit, i'd put the 1/24 revell kit next as i've seen some great builds out of it, third i would put the polar light snap kit in the harley quinn boxing as it builds up really well and has 3 sets of wheels but any of the polar lights build nice stock bugs. I would avoid the 1/25 revell bugs as they are old tools that need a lot of flash clean up before you can find the actual parts. The tamiya can be made to have working suspension too with a bit of drilling and its easy to use under something else. The revell kit has the rear inner arches molded to the floorpan which limits it being used under something else. While the polar lights bugs are snap kits they have an engine that can be datailed up and once its together nobodies gonna be able to tell

do you mean foil or bumpers etc? With foil you can do it before or after clear so its personal preference. i prefer to foil before clear myself but others like doing it after. I prefer doing it before clear as its easier to fix any knife slips. the bumpers are best added later as they dont need clear and if your polishing the clear they just get in the way.

just use a large pointed stick. jam it deep and give it a wiggle and you can just drop the bulb in

My mate printed up a jig for the aoshima trailer for me on his pla printer and its not that far from resin quality now. his machine was new this year and while there are still layer lines its nothing like his old machine. its not 0.03 resin smooth but it is about 0.05 quality. His machine seems mush less tempremental than the old one too

The methos Bainford desribes also works using enamel paints if they are gloss or satin. I find acrylic and matt enamels dont give any working time

the diesels have 2 batteries

its a 12 hour job to replace the bulbs in a renault laguna. the front bumper and a load of bottles, pipes and cables have to come off just to get to the headlight bolts and they put the computer behind the front offside bumper grille to be sure all the dirt hits it. just swapping one of the hard plastic air intake pipes for a removable hose would make it a 10 minute job

the mini might be too wide for the renault, i'd look for something with an inline engine just to make it easier on yourself. even just the mini engine is wider than the renault hood and thats without the gearbox, rad or suspension. you might find it better to just flip the renault pan front to back and adapt the front suspension to the engine end

feather boas are a safe snake for infants

i advise getting the biggest machine that you can. you'll eventually want to print your own bodies too

or theres always "honey i sold em and bought a hyabusa and helmet laws suck"