stitchdup

ditomaso/nahunel customs did fatman steering wheels for me and is happy to do custom work for folk. those wheels look like something they would add to their designs as they do a lot of rod n custom parts. i think it took a week from me asking to get the files

if you find the parts are too bent send me a pm. i have a few leftover parts kits for the r8

theres 3d printed options. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dodge-power-wagon-w100-1962 https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dodge-w200-power-wagon-crew-cab-1962 https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dodge-d100-1967 https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dodge-d100-1967-andrey_bezrodny if you look in the aftermarket section, theres a member printing these and i'm sure they could mix and match the files to get the version you need

theres a couple wagons on cults. could be worth asking the designers to do a hardtop

Are they metallic/pearl and did you clear them?

I saw a history documentary on the history channel once

you could try warming it with a hair dryer and carefully picking at it

Well I set this aside and ordered another, but I inadvertantly left it in a window that gets sun most of the day and it straightened out by itself. Not sure if this normally happens or if it just did it cos i ordered another, lol

lets see some pics of the coe in the background please

https://cults3d.com/en/search?q=jeep+cherokee

yes, its not much but i can feel it on my finger tips

calm down guys,

It suits me for the printing i do but its not fast. I'm using black resin just now and a set of small wheels took 12 hours. It was only a 32mm total height. if i get another i'll try something else next time but i only have the m3 to make bodies easier to print. a lot of the time i just use the mono though i'm tempted to set it up for doing light lenses and small clear. the biggest drawback with anycubic machines is they need a warmer area to work than others and the fep on the m3 is difficult to tension. i've taken to pressing it after install to put a little give in it which seemed to help. but i learned most of the little i know on here and spent a fortune on trial and error.

take care painting these. my buick and pontiac from the same series both went textured when i tried tamiya primer on them

i like seeing purist cars cut and modded. this is a real one

the auto fill on the anycubic m3 max is trash. I'm on my third unit and they never work for long

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/talbot-sunbeam-lotus-1979-printable-car

You should be ok with auto primers on their own. just work slowly and let it build up slow and even. i use only auto primers as hobby sprays are hard to get local. i like the acrylic auto paints as they can be used with tamiya most of the time. I'd use a scrap kit to practise on until you are happy with the results. if it goes bad you can strip it with 99% ipa alcohol fairly quickly

I'd stick them under diecast

NO POLITICS

awesome, you made it look far better than the description

if you search for talbot horizon you might get more options. thats what it was called in europe and i'm sure i've seen bodies for them. the farmer next me when i was a kid owned one

have a look at the seatbelts in your car. a different style but the basics are the same and its much easier than trying to explain it.

you can get slower setting liquid for it. I have 2, 5 and 10 minute setting times for the ones i use. the ten minute stuff can be worked while still soft using stainless tools and as luck would have it they are on amazon for not much money

if you cant find that part, replicas and miniatures do a couple of nice versions