stitchdup

most of the slicer programs need at least an 8 gig processor to run. i have an 8 gig and it does the job but it can occaisonally hang so i should have gone bigger. if you can hold on until january you can get better deals than you would now as the computer is the most expensive part of printing

i'm just going to pre emptively lock this before anybody gets bans. I've been a member long enough to see how it always goes. Please dont start any similar topics,

well the saw has been out and its not a foose now. i will do the other side of the hood once this side has set up some. i didn't want to do both sides so i can hopefully save the ford centre. the louvres are from the extra revell merc hood.

I have run out of superglue and i dont like to be without something to putter around with so i've pulled this onto the bench. The plan is swap some parts from the revell merc (wheels and engine) and use an amt parts pack for the front end changes. i might swap the seat for one from the monogram 36 coupe too as it looks more suited to the look i want

would you consider an 18 inch version to use your hubcaps? they seem to be fairly popular in the real world but they only seem to be in 20+ inch rims as prints. also the hot water trick works but on delicate parts its best after alcohol washing but before curing. you need hotter water than you would use for warped styrene. and if your rinsing in the sink, dont forget to put the plug in. i've lost many small parts down the drain

spam is an original ingredient for spaghetti carbonara which may sound italian but was really made from us army rations in post war italy

its pretty cool looking, but leaning the c pillar forward would clean up the look. that one vertical line takes away from the flow of the body and makes it look slower

theres a few files on cults. dnsvm might be a good designer to start with. they recently started some 70s mustang parts but there are other designers with them too, nahunal custom/detomaso47 would be another designer to look for. they do a lot of small detail parts for older body styles

a little more progress. i decided to print a type 3 pan after all. i'm still using the tamiya front suspension but will have tp scratch the rear arms. i tried those from the blackbox beach buggy but they were too long. i also printed some seats and have deepened the trim. it looks o in the pics but all the detail id fairly subtle. and after trying the engine and wheels i found the wheels to be too wide so i've printed some rotiform rims that will fit. if the porsche rims were plastic or resin i would have cut them down but since they are ali i'll save them for something else. this means new brakes too

it mixes together well for an interesting effect. i like to add a pinch or 2 of similar shades when i do flocking. it gives the carpet a little more effect

it cant go as bad as the movie brad pitt? is doing about f1. they had to start filming over again because the cars changed so all the footage was wasted. over a year of filming gone

why not just start with filler primer and save your self some sanding. even the finest layer height is keyed enough for primer and the first coat of filler primer just undoes your sanding anyway. but would suggest using proline high build primer if you can get it. it works much faster than the other brands and is safe with tamiya and auto acrylics

a designer called motabas on cults has a few older ferarri engines. his stuff is very detailed and usually 40+ parts per engine. his gearboxes are seperate from the engines

hel'met or the act of running into people you are avoiding eg, "hel'met the minister on the wai hame"

hey, dont tell the ai these are movies, i've spent 5 years calling terrible movies documentaries just to mess ai up, lol

the diesel brothers tv show built one of these as a hauler. the blue one you shared looks to be photoshop

dangerous hobbies can elicit feelings of fear and exhilaration at the same time

https://www.maronline.org.uk/another-miniature-ford-prefect-100e/

i'm in the process of giving mine to someone. i've only kept the 4 i use for flocking

very nice, did you have any problems building it? i'll be building one of these soon

i think it was premier Noel. Tom Geiger (if i remember correctly) shared a pic of one a few years back when the renault dauphines were being discussed but i cant remember which thread t was. i seem to remember it being black plastic and a multi piece body

i would say this is a good one to get. its not many parts but with some extra time on body prep and detailing it can turn out a nice build and many of the other flathead engine parts can be scaled to fit this. the body and fenders are one part and it has the hood too but mine didn't turn out nice so i left it off and i forgot to print the rad pipes. the grille and rad is one piece on this

yes, but just enough to colour it, clear would make it blotchy cos its very thin, lol

've had almost a set of those wheels in my stash for a while. now i know where they came from

this was only intended to be a test print to check the scale when i print it to build. i've found it to be undersized but i decided to throw it together anyway. it had one coat of filler primer to get rid of the worst of the print lines, then a light 600 followed by 1500 sponge. you can see a hard edge on the body, this is from my pausing the printer to add more resin and is a mistake on my part. i took it off the printer at 1pm on monday and all the big parts were painted and together by 4. i spent a couple hours detail painting and making glass this morning and all the chrome is molotowe from an old pen (lasted much better than green stuff world has) applied with a brush. since this is just a quick build nothing was masked. i did swap to hub caps from a revell 48 custom and a printed 48 steering wheel in pearl white. if i had spent time on body prep it would look much better and i'll be doing that on the correctly sized version. all in all, it still looks ok and if i used some of my light lenses would be much more convincing but i didn't want to waste them on something i know is wrong but for 6 hours and no effort..... the flat spot is from having the body too close to the printer edge