stitchdup

what does it say under the tamiya logo?

does it actually build as the box art? the built up lacks the body kit

is the plastic white? if it is i'd paint the guage face whatever black you like then i'd glue a small disc of 400 grit to the to of a pencil, and use that to remove the black from the numbers and needle. then just a red pen on the needle and your finished. it might only take a couple of rotations of the pencil to remove the paint, anything courser than 400 will remove detail fast.

I used to get annoyed at myself if i didn't complete my builds but now i like having various styles and eras of builds in various states of completion. Some days i feel like working on engines and some days it might be bodywork so having a variety to pick from works for me. I just tend go with what i feel like at the time but i do work on most of my builds through the year and fill paint/glue drying time bt doing a little more on something else. I must have 10 fairly involved build with various degrees of customising in progress at a time. I guess i treat model somewhat like i did real cars, never finished and always an ongoing project cos thats the fun bit isn't it? looking at what we've built is nice but the fun is in the building and pushing ourselves to do a little better each time,

are you building box stock or custom? if its custom you might be as well making up new sides and grafting the vents into that

All of them. Just like every kit is practise for the next one for builders, its also practise for the makers and leads to more advancements from other brands. Without smp or frog or premier kits we might never have got tamiya or mongram

looking at the last pic it looks like the body needs to come back some to me. the tapered sides look to fit against the chassis end to hide that cross brace area so i'd try moving the fenders back to suit that before any grinding. I'm not familiar with the kit though

gonna have to watch this

I like to go to where theres been a car crash and gather the coloured light clear parts. They are great for making lights and file to shape easily.

i'd spray the whole wheel in the colour of the recess, then use a small brush and a metalkote type colour to do the polished areas. you will definately need to prime and will prob have to do a second or third prime depending one how the wheel was angled during the print

thats a massive light almost sitting on top of the roof but it looks to be half floating

I like the old monogram kits. Its probably because i didn't know of them until i returned to building and also because they have more of the cars i like such as a 36 3 window and the 2 37s and in the same scale as my other stuff. Besides that when a 1/24 karmann ghia is near the same size as a 1/25 62 chevy it just looks odd in the display to me. I do like the amt and revell 1/25 kits but i am much more likely to trade them than my 1/24 stuff. I also like the lindberg 40 ford even though it gets put down loads, its an easy kit to chop up and the thicker plastic is much more forgiving than the revell kit to work with. But there is an exception if its an unusual vw kit, then scale or brand loses all importance

you need to use very hot water and cool it in very cold waterimmediately when straightening printed resin and try not to do it all at once. it works better to do a little at a time and repeat, or you could just print another which i've taken to doing.

I got fed up with ca always going off before i could use it so now i just buy the multipacks of 1 gram tubes online or from the pound shop so instead of getting a 5g bottle for a fiver, i instead get 10 or 12g for a quid. I like them because i can have an idea of how much 'll use on a build, and i use it for mockups too by dabbing a cocktail stick in it and doing tiny dots of glue, but just enough for a temp hold so i can easily pop the parts off again. When i use it with prints i'll put a piece of masking tape on both sides as ca can often grip really really well on printed resin and will break parts if you try to dismantle after gluing I would avoid gorrila glue, its got very powerful fumes and will destroy clearcoat even if its not been used on that model. I built a hok lime gold bug for an online comp and it was sat next where i was working on a transporter using gorrila glue. there was around 6 inches between the parts i was gluing and it still made the clear look like i'd covered it in superglue and baking soda. the paint was wrecked down to the primer. If you do decide to use it, dont use it after paint

the c2 corvette racecar has a nice looking v8. I cant remember who made the kit though but there are builds of it on the forum

some of his bodies do actually have the inner arts of the light behind the solid lenses. I opened up the lights on one but it was just playing to see what could be done with it and i never did lenses for it but the inners were there. I think some of their newer bodies might have seperate lenses now

I've only got pics of the audi a5. the bodykit came from elsewhere. this was printed at 0.03 layer height

I've used it to colour chrome and i imagine glass would be much the same. If its a one piece glass it can be difficult to get the cover even if spraying the inside of the glass.

or hunting parts for the 4 pots

it looks like the 55 grille surround with a couple of bars added in place of the grille

sweet

you can get the gmc files from andrey bexrodney. he does a load of versions of this era gm trucks

I think if members here were using ai to improve their builds other members would soon call them out about if they try to be cheat us. it would be in the same class as scamming imo as its a lie. is it worth losing the respect of your peers for 5 mins of kudos? I dont think it is.

he's not the first. theres a 59 chevy with 3d flames but i think this guy is trying to copy the kuhl racing cars with the engraved paintjobs

check for a build thread? ai would probably be more obvious in those. it would be where we can see if its real or not. also ai colouring and shading is much brighter than real pics are. its always seems to try and make pics look like they are hd