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Everything posted by stitchdup
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I changed my mind on the wheels so i've gone for something a lot wilder and in a 22" flavour. the interior i also very close to fitting now just needing some material removed beside the rear seats. Next will be filling the boot with stereo and air then i can start on the chassis mods
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Do you make notes/memory aids as you build?
stitchdup replied to Mattblack's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I'm kinda lucky in that I can put something away and come back to it months or years later and within a couple of mins be back where i was on it. This only works for practical and craft stuff though, books i have to start again. -
No its not in the wrong section, the racecar stuff is going bye bye, this is going to be a tuner show car and not my usual stanced tuner. I'm not really into the modern rally cars so my plan when i bought this kit was always max power style show car. What this means is wild bodykit, too big wheels and lots of stereo equipment that can be read on the richter scale. I'm planning to do all this but with some modern parts like air suspension and more recent wheels as a set of 17s just isn't big enough for this. Luckily thanks to 3d printing getting an interior was as simple as taking one from Andrey bezrodney's audi s5 kit which is a little big but i'll be using the skoda panels as a guide to cut it down to size and their thick enough that i can just file the back side to get them fitting. Lucky for me the vw group cars have similar enough interiors to do this with. I'm leaning towards bright paint, possibly from hok, but it depends what colour i do the interior with orange currently top of the pile which might mean black paint instead. The wheels will be at least 20s with decently chunky tyres for a more aggresive look and this is the sorta style i'm going for. In my mind its the tuner equivalent of a show rod some pics failed to load i'm using stretced sprue to fill the numerous holes in the interior pan. its also a short shot but its an easy enough fix, just takes time
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Ford Bronco full 3d print
stitchdup replied to stitchdup's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
yes but they are done as part of the grille. i dont know if the blackbox kit is the same -
I sat down to build a tamiya escort cosworth only to find someone had already decaled it and surperglued the glass in. and for some reason i cant understand they cut holes for the bumper and hood spotlights. the kit is completely ruined so now i'm sat with a uscp engine kit i cant use. £125 altogether wasted because ebay sellers cant tell the truth. i looked for another kit and i just cant justify it cos they start at £130 now. i should have checked the kit when it arrived
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1/20th Revell Fendt 728 Vario Gen7
stitchdup replied to Luc Janssens's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
i had a thought on the scale. most of the bruder farm toys are about 1/20 and they are quite popular with kids -
I'd stick with the shorties. You can see the engine then
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1/20th Revell Fendt 728 Vario Gen7
stitchdup replied to Luc Janssens's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
porsche junior, deutz d30, and the fendt are the only ones i mind on. this one was announced a year or more back though, and heller have been doing tractors too. theres also a load from miniart if you want a more challenging kit tha the grey fergies -
1/20th Revell Fendt 728 Vario Gen7
stitchdup replied to Luc Janssens's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
theres a nice looking one for printing. the designer is digitalsurface -
on this side of the pond trimmers are for beards, i had wild visions in my head of why it would need an engine, lol
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I bought the files from nitrolab3d on cults but the parts are also available from blackbox to fit the revell kit. I didn't have the revell kit so i got the 1/24 kit. It all printed great though i reprinted a few parts to lose some support marks. The fit on everything is great but i didn't push the dash in far enough so now the cage wont fit so i left it loose. The doors would work but again due to the dash they wouldn't stay shut so i glued the locks to keep them in place. The kit also has all the holes there if you want to detail it up with brake pipes but i didn't do that. The only thing i found irritating is the chassis is all one piece which made painting the shocks awkward and there is no rad. I built it without fixing these things but now i've built it I want to do a detailed version some time. Paint is duplicolour and tamiya
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1/20th Revell Fendt 728 Vario Gen7
stitchdup replied to Luc Janssens's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
if its 1/20 i'll no be buying one -
What did you see on the road today?
stitchdup replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
they didn't last long in my area. rust made them snap in front of the back seat as karmann decided that the best place for the drain holes for the roof was under carpet instead of in the wheel arch. they rusted along the joins until all that was holding them together was the sills and quarters. its a shame cos they were good cars and can make reat resto mods due to the massive ford scene in europe and how simple it is to put modern engines in them. i remember a white on white one that just looked like the coolest car to ten year old me but miami vice was on tv then so that might have been an influence too -
Do you also have 1:1 project cars?
stitchdup replied to ctruss53's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
i'd look for dirty or corroded contacts or even a loose wire. if it worked once its probably nothing too serious -
sausage is square in scotland
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1/20th Revell Fendt 728 Vario Gen7
stitchdup replied to Luc Janssens's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
the tractor clarkson should have bought -
I used to help my friend in his auto electric shop. he mainly rebuilt them as being an island means delivery takes a while. we had one guy that had a mildly tuned mk1 mr2. the alternator was tight up behind the drivers seat and bigger than anu of the gaps around it so swapping it meant dismantling the turbo technics kit and engine mounts to make space. we suggested relocating it somewhere with less heat soak but he was adamant that wouldn't work. we pointed out the only other option was to make an inspection panel behind the back seat as 95% of his bill was the dismantling and reassembly. the next time he turned up there was 2 very roughly cut holes behind the driver seat as he cut the first one near the floor when the alternator was by his shoulder, lol. I chucked his mess of a panel away and used one from a bus to neaten it up but it saved him 12 hours of wasted time. i still think moving the alternator to the other side would have been better but it is what it is
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What Did You Get Today? (Not Model Related)
stitchdup replied to LOBBS's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
I never thought i'd be buying a tapestry but here we are. this hung in either my great aunt or grannies house and when i found it in a junk shop i just had to buy it as they both had dementia so this is something of theirs that doesn't have sad memories assosiated with it. either way it was done by granny as she gave these as gifts. when i picked it up today my sisters words cant be posted but i'm sure you can guess them, lol. -
Flocking/ embossing powder not covering
stitchdup replied to Hondamatic's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
dont use alcohol, it will mess up the paint -
and Norn but everybody forgets about it. for example a fluffy baabaa isn't a sheep like you'd think but in fact a rabbit. a lot of its close to english but j and k are interchangable when its spoken. in a lot of ways its very close to jamaican but really its old norse mixed with norman english with a bit of irish gaelic. I can hold a conversation in norn but i can only understand about half of it. My grandparents era was when english got more widely spoken on the north isles and foula still speaks it first but its in the middle of nowhere off shetland
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72 Jeepster. Anyone know anything about this coming out.
stitchdup replied to lvfd221's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
the pics not showing -
The tamiya bug would be my first choice as its by far the best bug kit, i'd put the 1/24 revell kit next as i've seen some great builds out of it, third i would put the polar light snap kit in the harley quinn boxing as it builds up really well and has 3 sets of wheels but any of the polar lights build nice stock bugs. I would avoid the 1/25 revell bugs as they are old tools that need a lot of flash clean up before you can find the actual parts. The tamiya can be made to have working suspension too with a bit of drilling and its easy to use under something else. The revell kit has the rear inner arches molded to the floorpan which limits it being used under something else. While the polar lights bugs are snap kits they have an engine that can be datailed up and once its together nobodies gonna be able to tell
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do you mean foil or bumpers etc? With foil you can do it before or after clear so its personal preference. i prefer to foil before clear myself but others like doing it after. I prefer doing it before clear as its easier to fix any knife slips. the bumpers are best added later as they dont need clear and if your polishing the clear they just get in the way.