stitchdup

It might be a rukkus. Pretty popular with the tuner guys a few years back and i think iceman had it one month

I'm not too worried about the gauges. I'm going lowrider so the most the interior will get is the dash tag smoothed and the head rests removed and maybe a bright colour. Hopefully the paint will distract from the inevitable flaws as i''ve never seen one in real life. They just aren't common in scotland

theres a kit of that in the impala ss if you want to take the easy route

To convert a gnx into a regal is it just a case of adding chrome or are there other body differences i'm not seeing? I can live with the wrong engine but theres a spare small block if that changes.

you might find the mdf wears down pretty quick. there is a surprising amount of heat generated by sawing and its enough to break down the glue in the mdf. go with the ply and it will last longer

you could use a leather punch. the one i have has 6 sizes of punch and can be used on plastic too. i find i use it quite often for making fuel caps but theres no reason it wouldn't work on decals. mine cost about 20 bucks from a hobby lobby type shop in the fabric section. its meant for belts but its a great tool for us too

do you have accessto a 3d printer? theres plenty files on cults. i have a couple of sets and they print good

hence why i started that statement with the words AT A GUESS, and began my entire post with i used up the sum of my knowledge. at least quote the whole statement. This isn't the joe rogan show

it kinda looks like moisture or dust under the decal.

you are very close to a period of moderation, dial it back. and if your going to use urban dictionary terms, "nuff said" means I've said enough, not you've said enough, its like mic drop

pics please, I'm thinking one roof for length but i didn't think about width as the imai are pretty fat in the body

I've got a skips drive in version. Its an interesting kit, especially the 6 3/4 cylinder engine and single chopped screen pillar. I think the only good parts in my entire kit are the chassis and interior. The rest is a distorted mess, though the wagon part of the roof might be good and i have a damaged 58 caddy.... hmmn, thinking now

it was written by a girl i was at school with and filmed locally too. Its won some awards recently too but I guess i should really watch it but its not really my kinda film, i like comedies and action more

Have you tried asking smp? http://smp24modelcars.blog.fc2.com/

OOB is how i want my funeral to be

One of my great grandads glass float paintings was used as a prop in a movie. The movie is called outrun and the sailing ship on glass was painted by him and can now be seen around the world

I used up the sum of my knowledge on nitrogen. I could say they use it in the nissan gt-r r35racecar tyres as its a stable gas that doesn't go up and down in pressure like air does but that doesn't really help the answer. At a guess I'd say it doesn't need to be pressurised as it will still freeze on contact with the air but the chassis should be sealed and not have open bolt holes. My basis for that little bit of knowledge is from seeing it used to remove sound deadening on car tv shows when it wasn't pressurised and still froze so it should be the same with the chassis

the nitrogen freezes and shows the cracks as lines of frost

If you use firefox you have more options. I run ublock origin, ad block plus and facebook container and I never get ads on any sites. The facebook container makes sites with facebook buttons load faster as it cuts out the tracking.

Close, its a scottish teabag press, for when you really want your moneys worth

if its been sat for a while it wont hurt to use an abrasive cleaner and a toothbrush but it is more for cleaning than keying as primer seems to let dust bite into it. the filler primer does need sanded. it dries with a heavier texture so it can be sanded back and i always use a guide coat with it.

i had the same issue with mine. a couple strips o hard plastic soon fixed it

didn't nunu or belkits announce one

OK Karen

i find some of the montana paints dont like clearcoat, but they are thin to lay out and a little goes a long way as they cover fast. a second coat probably wont be needed with them but since they lay out so thin you'll need to treat every paintjob as if you were doing black