stitchdup

I've only got pics of the audi a5. the bodykit came from elsewhere. this was printed at 0.03 layer height

I've used it to colour chrome and i imagine glass would be much the same. If its a one piece glass it can be difficult to get the cover even if spraying the inside of the glass.

or hunting parts for the 4 pots

it looks like the 55 grille surround with a couple of bars added in place of the grille

sweet

you can get the gmc files from andrey bexrodney. he does a load of versions of this era gm trucks

I think if members here were using ai to improve their builds other members would soon call them out about if they try to be cheat us. it would be in the same class as scamming imo as its a lie. is it worth losing the respect of your peers for 5 mins of kudos? I dont think it is.

he's not the first. theres a 59 chevy with 3d flames but i think this guy is trying to copy the kuhl racing cars with the engraved paintjobs

check for a build thread? ai would probably be more obvious in those. it would be where we can see if its real or not. also ai colouring and shading is much brighter than real pics are. its always seems to try and make pics look like they are hd

I think the decals might have got damp, fujimis old decals often disintegrate over time and sometimes its can take less than 2 year. I've got loads like that and they are all 8s to mid 90s japanese kits. The revell and amt decals tend to be a little thicker which might be why they last better

just to confuse the issue, fenders are called wings in the uk

have a look at any restart/homestart type stores too. I help out in one on a wed morning and they get a lot of display cabinets in like new condition that sell for pennies on the pound. the middle of lidl is good too, i got one of my cabinets there. also if you are in a housing assosiation flat they might have a store of left behind furniture though most goes to restart type shops. and shop bankruptcy sales can get cheap display units, often with lighting, if you go in on the last day and make a silly offer. jewellery shops are great for those cabinets

wow, great deals on the cyber truck, simply buy one and get a free flatpak ikea version

There is a 3 piece version in one of the coupe or van kits. I've got one molded in slime green but i dont know if its a better fit

I've printed a couple of his audis. for the cost they are decent but i wouldn't pay more for them. they all need the door shuts redone. sometimes its the only game in town for some stuff

the bird hitting the spanish fighter jet is real. the photographer got the whole chain of pics at an airshow. he was interviewed (possibly in the telegraph paper and siad it was a million to one he got it on film.

sacrilege, i love it

depends what it is. most of my models just get matt black undersides so if the wells are on the chassis they get black below with body colour from the top and no masking. if the wells are molded to the body they just get overspray and it pure luck if they get any paint. I concentrate on what you can see without lifting it up(i only recently started doing headliners as i reached a taller shelf so could see bare plastic, lol) and my models are just shelf builds anyway. my current golf will be getting everything painted though as its a bit more special to me.

those citadel paints dont play nice with tamiya thinners. they look good for a couple of hours but when you next open them its a rubbery mess

ridgeway might be a scottish name too, theres a couple of families called it here

Lay off the political stuff guys, nobody enjoys being moderated

the first question is what type of printer is it? chances are its going to be an fdm printer which isn't as suitable for what we do. a resin/pla printer is better for what we do. files can be found on cults3d or many other sites. size is personal preference mostly but back spacing and mounts will depend on many factors such as is it a 1 or more piece wheel? do you want it to work with kit brakes or aftermarket? are you using kit tyres or printed? some files have mounts while others are just a flat back but universal mounts are available free for the japanese kit wheels and they are easy to adapt for revell etc.

cya were the last 3 letters of one of my old vw registration plates so my sister called it the bye-bye car

I'm on an island in scotland so i started with duplicolour auto acrylics and only recently got a local source for tamiya. I'm sure other folk can recomend hobby brands better than me. your railroad paints might be a good place to start since you have experience with those brands and its very likely the same stuff in a different jar/tin. if you have any tabletop gaming type shops nearby they can be a source of paints too. but if you are unsure the left over sprues make great places to test if a paint will work for you or is compatible with your primer or other paint. I have seen some of the aussie guys using a local to you brand called sms possibly. if you look through coolhand's threads he used them on some models and it looked like good paint.