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Everything posted by stitchdup
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Who doesn't love a mock-up? Let's see yours!
stitchdup replied to Belairconvertable's topic in WIP: Model Cars
hoping to finish this over the next couple of days. everything is printed from files by nitrolab3d or the parts are available from blackbox to fit the revell kit. this is 1/24 scale -
Cool, I've always prefered the evos to the scoobies. they just look tougher
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Motobitz.uk closing
stitchdup replied to carsntrucks4you's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
all the stuff i've had from them was cast resin. -
I like that more than i probably should. It could make for a fun ride with a japanese v6 of some sort. maybe toyota using one of the conversion kit for the mr2 so you can swap the whole suspension too and open up a world of aftermarket tuning parts but even the stock 280hp would be fun. It would live up to its french nickname then, lol
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What is this and what kit is it from?
stitchdup replied to Keef's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
the rounded things on the bottom sprue are for spreading putty and getting it smoothed on concave curves like you see on older kustoms. if you are molding in fenders they work great -
a tub big enough to put the kit inside (sometimes they get bashed in transit so why risk losing your work) and an organiser box for small parts and completed assemblies. a set of washable sanding sticks are handy too. I used to prime everything before taking to work and only did brush painted stuff there. i wouldn't take photo etch as its just too easy to lose. i'd just get cheap brushes for traveling with, theres no guarentee you'll get them cleaned and you can get packs of 50 small nail art brushes for ten bucks on amazon (look for white and purple handles). a second scriber is useful but depending on your knife you might get scriber and saw blades for it which saves carrying a tool. a photo film container is handy for blades too and masking tape. really the best way to decide what you need is to sit down with a kit and see what it needs. while we have lots of tools, i'd bet most of us use the same few most of the time and it might surprise you how few we actually lose. women have shoes, we have tools, lol
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thats what i did when i worked on the boat. i recommend a small cutting mat as part of the travel set. i ended up with 2 of most things but thats not a bad thing. really all i was lacking was light.
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Hornby Porsche 996 GT3R
stitchdup replied to Smilesperhour's topic in WIP: Other Racing: Road Racing, Land Speed Racers
the headlights are canted inwards at the top is the most obvious but the front bumper looks too tall or narrow too as the 1/1 wheels have a lower profile tyre/bigger rim yet they both match in where they line up so the model has to be wrong. its almost like the hood is too tall or round in the centre too but that could just be the angle of the pic. do you have another brand kit you could compare it with? it would help see where it off at. it would be a lot of fiddly work to fix the lights as it might mean altering the whole front end to line them up as pretty much everything from the screen down would need slight alterations to keep it all lined up. i can measure up a tamiya 996 the morn if thats a help? -
They do exist.......Real Coca Cola car
stitchdup replied to Rocketman455's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
so racecars? -
Does this resemble anyone's work area?
stitchdup replied to 64SS350's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
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theres files for them on cults. they vary from free up to 100 bucks. i dont know how the quality of them is as its just things that have popped up in searches
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3D Printing Storefront Directory
stitchdup replied to Mr. Metallic's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
for the bigger scale stuff you're really better off with your own printer. you can probably pick up a used one for about the same as you'll pay for 2 sets of wheels. I've done printing for folk but i'm in scotland so postage would rule me out as that could be $40 on its own. -
but you might also get to see a volcano erupt! and it wont affect the whole coast, at worst you miss a couple of fjords and at best you see a volcano erupt from somewhere safe
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no, unless your cruise ship goes on land. the ship might keep you inside if theres lots of ash/dust but they would sail away from that pretty fast. if you have to fly to get to the ship, that might be an issue as jet engines wont work well in ash
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Revell 50 ford - radiator is in the bed to make room for a supercharged hemi johan 66 plymouth fury 1968 dodge charger clearly scale pro charged hemi, scratched interior, aoshima rims, mild smoothing 1969 chevy service truck ls engine, independent suspension 1974 datsun skyline its more calibra touring car than datsun 1971 cuda and theres plenty more in progress
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What did you see on the road today?
stitchdup replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
they should build the 3s they had at goodwood instead. it actually looks like a 5. this looks like a fiat 500 that went for backstreet botox injections -
Front fender printer line
stitchdup replied to hedotwo's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
those are a different type of printer that uses reels of plastic and a heated moving nozzle sorta like a milling machine in reverse. the resin printers are just a tank for the resin, a plate that raises and lowers that the print holds on to and a light under the tank that cures specific areas of the tank bottom onto the plate. the only moving part is the plate which needs levelled regularly and the temprature needs to be warm enough. -
Front fender printer line
stitchdup replied to hedotwo's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
its an easy fix. the printer isn't using stiff enough supports or enough of them. i'll hazzard a guess the bodies will have a slight droop forward of the lines as well. if you give the bodies slight left or right tilt along with the front to back, along with extra supports you can avoid most of it. for example, i give the body a 30-45 degree front to back angle along with 4 or 5 degrees left or right. since doing this my prints have been loads better -
it will but thats what kills the smells. once its been soaked you could soak them again with normal cleaners but vingar should evaporate pretty quick. its the base for most good glass cleaners so one of them might also work. I used vinegar a lot when i was working
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have you triied soaking the vinyl parts in white vinegar? it should help reduce the smell but it might need a week or two soaking