stitchdup

it kinda looks like moisture or dust under the decal.

you are very close to a period of moderation, dial it back. and if your going to use urban dictionary terms, "nuff said" means I've said enough, not you've said enough, its like mic drop

pics please, I'm thinking one roof for length but i didn't think about width as the imai are pretty fat in the body

I've got a skips drive in version. Its an interesting kit, especially the 6 3/4 cylinder engine and single chopped screen pillar. I think the only good parts in my entire kit are the chassis and interior. The rest is a distorted mess, though the wagon part of the roof might be good and i have a damaged 58 caddy.... hmmn, thinking now

it was written by a girl i was at school with and filmed locally too. Its won some awards recently too but I guess i should really watch it but its not really my kinda film, i like comedies and action more

Have you tried asking smp? http://smp24modelcars.blog.fc2.com/

OOB is how i want my funeral to be

One of my great grandads glass float paintings was used as a prop in a movie. The movie is called outrun and the sailing ship on glass was painted by him and can now be seen around the world

I used up the sum of my knowledge on nitrogen. I could say they use it in the nissan gt-r r35racecar tyres as its a stable gas that doesn't go up and down in pressure like air does but that doesn't really help the answer. At a guess I'd say it doesn't need to be pressurised as it will still freeze on contact with the air but the chassis should be sealed and not have open bolt holes. My basis for that little bit of knowledge is from seeing it used to remove sound deadening on car tv shows when it wasn't pressurised and still froze so it should be the same with the chassis

the nitrogen freezes and shows the cracks as lines of frost

If you use firefox you have more options. I run ublock origin, ad block plus and facebook container and I never get ads on any sites. The facebook container makes sites with facebook buttons load faster as it cuts out the tracking.

Close, its a scottish teabag press, for when you really want your moneys worth

if its been sat for a while it wont hurt to use an abrasive cleaner and a toothbrush but it is more for cleaning than keying as primer seems to let dust bite into it. the filler primer does need sanded. it dries with a heavier texture so it can be sanded back and i always use a guide coat with it.

i had the same issue with mine. a couple strips o hard plastic soon fixed it

didn't nunu or belkits announce one

OK Karen

i find some of the montana paints dont like clearcoat, but they are thin to lay out and a little goes a long way as they cover fast. a second coat probably wont be needed with them but since they lay out so thin you'll need to treat every paintjob as if you were doing black

ah man, I was going purple on my one, time for a rethink, lol. That looks great

theres another place in Holland thats name is escaping me just now, but they had a lot of older stock. if you do a search then look for them on ebay, you might be lucky. I've ordered from them but it was a few years ago. If I remember right they sold mostly truck stuff and the site was colourful. sorry i cant be more help

Myself and Ace-Garageguy were discssing this very car (the beast) a couple of months back. It turns out it wasn't a proper merlin engine but a meteor from a tank. It was the press that called it a merlin because it sounded way cooler for a guy that rides a horse to court when Rolls Royce sued him. It also used a GM autobox which i found funny. Also Mr Dodd only built the body, someone else did the chassis and engine (possibly the builder of the box) and a second with 2 engines was well under way, though i couldn't find more pics of it. The whole story of the car could make a decent comedy movie

Have you tried spot models in spain? They're usually good for decals

The flat plate is printed first in resin printing, it varies with other types, wax prints like resin but i think thats it. it attaches to a plate that rises out of the resin. think of it like printing thousands of photos in a stack. the spider web is the supports to hold the parts in place and the printer has the choice to add them r have the program do it. if you dip the item in hot water the supports remove much cleaner

Its not going to matter where the kits are produced. the raw plastic is all made in china. we let them do this because we dont want big stinking plastics factories near our towns because of forever chemicals and what they do to our health and kids. Erin Brockovitch 2 could be made sooner than you think

those kits are selling really well in europe. they sell out pretty quick, except the icm model t's but i think they were released too soon after each other.

it looks like your dash might not quite level and holding the cowl area from dropping in place. i dont have that kit so i cant be sure. if that is the problem it might also be making the stance look off so i would try adjusting the dash if you can. have a look at some other builds ups and you can compare them, it sometimes helps