stitchdup

I just use what looks right. usually its 1.5- 2.5mm size i use but i have used other sizes. I prefer evergreen over plastruct for doing tuck n roll but thats probably just because i find it easier to work with. this is a bench seat for a custom ford pick up based on a amt 50 ford bench. its taken 3 full packs to do the bench and i'm at a pack and a half on the door panels but they are only half done and might take another pack. I put a angle on the rear edge of the strips as otherwise the join between top and bottom cushions looks off. I started with the base on these seats but thats only because the back is split and it makes it easier to line up the back. I also start in the centre so it builds up evenly, and i leave them a touch longer to help with sticking the edges down and trim after its all set. on this seat i'm adding t'n'r around the edges too but you could use tiny rod for piping (which i'm doing too but havent dont yet) I also give it a good 240 sand after as the real thing is rarely half round, and my first primer is filler primer but thats just for the inevitable gaps between the strips and only needs a light dusting.

look for nail striping tape on amazon. its 1mm tape for doing pinstripes on nails and a pack of 32 rolls is less than 5 bucks. most are metallic but a bit of searching will find non metallics but they might cost extra. they can be used over or under paint and are almost as thin as bmf

I think they are similar but not the same truck. the sale truck has some different trim around the lower rear of the cab and at the top rear edge of the door. the truck of the month has extra pin striping on the decals and both have their plates in different locations while leaving no holes in the other location.

cool,

I would use an acrylic automotive filler primer to begin with and keep the tamiya primer for the later steps. the filler primer reduces the layer lines much better than the tamiya primer. you'll probably have 4 or 5 rounds of filler primer and sanding before you get to the tamiya primer. i like to mask off the detailed areas before using the filler primer to save finer details but on the body trim you dont really need to. I start my sanding with 400 grit and work up to 1000 grit. if any actual filler is needed for support holes or that now is the time to do the filler too. once you have the body prepped to where you're happy with it you can start your normal paint routine. note- i use duplicolour with tamiya and it needs a couple of days between paint types and you might need duplicolour clear too as i've never used tamiya clear over duplicolour for the tyres get some tamiya rubber black, its fantastic. on the bumpers i use c1 powders over plastikote aero aluminium. just rub some of the powders onto the dry paint and they take on a darker chrome finish. I've tried foil in the past but i just couldn't get it to look good on the curvey bumpers

i haven't used those particular items but the products i have used have done the job well enough. Sometimes their wheels and tyres feel small but they measure out correctly

its not the lights that are the problem. the problem is theres not a maximum height for the lights so we have a mixture of different sized vehicles with lights at differing heights so smaller cars get blinded by trucks and suvs. If there was a height limit most of the issues would be drasticly reduced. yes your led lights might make your driving safer at night but isn't that negated when your lights make other peoples driving worse?

and if you want to go full detail almost everything is available in 3d too

thats the same problem i get with tamiya. it used to be good but now something in the glue is reacting with the paint. i'm using frog low tack cut into strips now and its like tamiya used to be. you'd think it would at least work with their own paints

only 2000 pics? the laptop i'm using just now has 188 gig of pics or 182,428 pics and i have 2 terrabyte hard drives of pics as well. most are sorted by brand but ones i have a kit of get their own folder. its a leftover from sitting on a boat for 12 hours, lol.

in my area the ford transit was king and there were very few other brands around except a few renaults the council ran. within the last 15 years the vw transporter (t5 and up) have taken overbecause the vw can still be sold after 3 years while the fords are near scrap. the fords got smaller too which didn't help. strangely the fiesta based little transit has lighter doors than the car version, yet the car doors dont damage the hinges while the vans do exactly as you describe. seems an odd thing to copy on both size vans when its casting them thousands of sales

the fiero would have sold well in europe. It could have taken sales from the mazda identity crisi (mx5, eunos, miata etc)

start every day with a hop, skip and a jump and most people will assume you're unwell

I changed my mind on the wheels so i've gone for something a lot wilder and in a 22" flavour. the interior i also very close to fitting now just needing some material removed beside the rear seats. Next will be filling the boot with stereo and air then i can start on the chassis mods

once you alter it you can never get it back, and you have 6 more. I rebuilt some of my old builds and i wish i didn't now as i have nothing to compare new builds with

I'm kinda lucky in that I can put something away and come back to it months or years later and within a couple of mins be back where i was on it. This only works for practical and craft stuff though, books i have to start again.

No its not in the wrong section, the racecar stuff is going bye bye, this is going to be a tuner show car and not my usual stanced tuner. I'm not really into the modern rally cars so my plan when i bought this kit was always max power style show car. What this means is wild bodykit, too big wheels and lots of stereo equipment that can be read on the richter scale. I'm planning to do all this but with some modern parts like air suspension and more recent wheels as a set of 17s just isn't big enough for this. Luckily thanks to 3d printing getting an interior was as simple as taking one from Andrey bezrodney's audi s5 kit which is a little big but i'll be using the skoda panels as a guide to cut it down to size and their thick enough that i can just file the back side to get them fitting. Lucky for me the vw group cars have similar enough interiors to do this with. I'm leaning towards bright paint, possibly from hok, but it depends what colour i do the interior with orange currently top of the pile which might mean black paint instead. The wheels will be at least 20s with decently chunky tyres for a more aggresive look and this is the sorta style i'm going for. In my mind its the tuner equivalent of a show rod some pics failed to load i'm using stretced sprue to fill the numerous holes in the interior pan. its also a short shot but its an easy enough fix, just takes time

yes but they are done as part of the grille. i dont know if the blackbox kit is the same

I sat down to build a tamiya escort cosworth only to find someone had already decaled it and surperglued the glass in. and for some reason i cant understand they cut holes for the bumper and hood spotlights. the kit is completely ruined so now i'm sat with a uscp engine kit i cant use. £125 altogether wasted because ebay sellers cant tell the truth. i looked for another kit and i just cant justify it cos they start at £130 now. i should have checked the kit when it arrived

i had a thought on the scale. most of the bruder farm toys are about 1/20 and they are quite popular with kids

I'd stick with the shorties. You can see the engine then

porsche junior, deutz d30, and the fendt are the only ones i mind on. this one was announced a year or more back though, and heller have been doing tractors too. theres also a load from miniart if you want a more challenging kit tha the grey fergies

theres a nice looking one for printing. the designer is digitalsurface

on this side of the pond trimmers are for beards, i had wild visions in my head of why it would need an engine, lol