stitchdup

I was having problems with my sight recently which was making modelling fairly difficult. It was particulary bad doing foil and i was seeing 5 or 6 of the line i was trying to cut. Today i tried some 1.5 magnification reading glasses and the foil was a cinch. Unfortunately my prep before hand looks bad so the chrome look like it was fitted with a hammer but i dont actually mind that as i can just print another when it starts to bother me and i'll be able to see what i'm doing second time around.

well you say that but there is an efficient network of electric vehicles that can pull a lot more than 9 cars and its been used by every auto manufacturer for over 100 years.

Does anyone have tips for printing clear parts. I will only be printing lights and small parts and not full screens. I can get them to print but its very hit and miss on the sucess rate. The problem I'm having is getting the parts to stay on the supports. I can get them to stay if i increase the support attachment to 1mm but that ruins the edges of the print. I'm using anycubic waterwashable clear resin with a 1.5 sec exposure time in a warm room. I dont mind them turning out slightly yellow'd as some time in the sun seems to fix it and print lines i get rid of by brushing on more clear resin before curing but i'd like to have a higher sucess rate. at the moment if i was printing light lenses i'd have to print 10 to get 2 decent enough to use.

When i did my mk3 golf ride quality had nothing to do with it. My biggest concern was where the wheel arch sat when the car was aired out. To get the rear wheels to look like they fitted standard arches took me and a friend months of work. We started with the stock rear axle and tried our hardest to get the 9s to fit but in the end we had to swap to a mk1 golf axle. This meant my friend spent most evening for 2 month layed on his back welding in the rear floor from the mk1 to the mk3. When that was done we had to use various parts from other vws to make more space. the brakes were from a lupo 3l as they were narrower than the others we tried. Then we found the wheels didn't sit in the centre of the arch when dropped (it happens on every low vw hatchback) so we had to get some custom drop plates made that moved the axle back on full drop. All this work so the wheel arch sat between the tyre and rim on full drop and yes it involved camber and stretched tyres. After all this the front was a piece of cake and just needed the offset changed on the wheels when they got banded. It was all about the look when it was parked and my reason for that was why should i care how it looked moving, i only saw it parked. It drove decently but it wasn't a car i would drive fast, not because it was unsafe but because i wanted it to be seen. If I had raised the floor a couple inches i could probably have driven it on good roads at full drop but as it was i drove it 50mm from the ground. My oilpan needed a bash guard and i went through bushings something rotten on the front but it looked cool to me so it was worth it. to look at the car you'd think it was just a lowered stocker but it was much more than that and i sorta enjoyed nobody really knowing how much work it was. I appreciate the look isn't for everyone but i wanted to explain some how i did it. but my cars were always the lowest. I got given an old peugeot 405 wagon that was pretty worn out so me and my mate used a citroen bx suspension for a dirt cheap hydraulic system. it was up to the job, lol

boeing, our thoughts and prayers hold the plane together

its interesting how you guys say gone away while on this side of the pond we say gone off. we would describe dairy as having gone away but not glues or paints

use the pound/dollar/euro shop cheap stuff. it doesn't last any longer but you get 5 in a pack so it matters less if it goes bad cos you have another. if its gorilla brand its garbage before you even open it

those wheels were in the tamiya race kit if i recall correctly

the mica is just a much finer metallic

i use a lot more supports than that. usually light or medium supports with it layed back more. the back surface i would have at least 4 rows of support and posssibly more. imagine its a piece of that paper with squares on it. i would have it at 7 or 8 mm and everywhere a line crosses would be a support

just tell them its on an irs pan. they dont camber when slammed

if you are getting paint mixed for you and need it more in scale ask them to leave out the metallic and to use half the amount of mica instead. It wont be perfect but it will be closed

man you got a steal on that, they are usually around 75/80 quid

i have them tilted back on th rear edge of the hood. I also add a couple milimetres to the back edge so if the edge doesn't turn out right i can file it back to where it need to be. I also leave it on the supports until after curing but i do this with most large thin items. a panel i would have supported upright. I tend to do my supports so they dont land on areas with trim or detail and with the front facing of the print items mostly clear of supports

I dont know if its the same in america but in the uk we have whats called a poor mans patent. what this involves is getting all your info about your item gathered together and then you put it in a an envelope and post it to yourself in registered mail that must be signed for. You save this envelope and never open it until you need to prove something is your own designs. the reason for doing it this way is the post office then have a record of when you sent it to yourself, and the post office in most countries is owned by the government so it becomes an official government document of proof. obviously if you open the letter your proof fails unless it only opened in court. my mum did this when she made greetings cards and her designs got nicked

photoshop but the why is because people want their boring sedans to look like touring cars because touring cars just look cool.

unavoidable situation got usall to where we are today

you can get holders that have a rotating base. or you can use rotating cake stands.old record turntable

I've been using jayo standard grey resin recently. its half the price of anycubics resin and the results are much nicer. Its seems to clean better afterwards too. i was finding the anycubic would sorta clump on small parts. The bottles are awful though

liver achie is not a flamboyant pianist but it is a terrible dinner

I worked in a petrol station for a few months when i was younger. I've watched people fill up the oil right to the top then get confused why the dipstick doesn't work any more (clue, more than one dipstick in this story) I watched someone get irate that i kept stopping the fuel feed when they were flling up their transit pick up. The transit pick up had a cut down van front for the cab but it still had the fuel flap but only a hole ahint it cos its pretty obvious the large pipe with the yellow cap saying fuel on it coming out of the tank is the filler but no, this guy insisted he was right, poured loads of gas on his feet, paid and ran out of gas before making it to the road but somehow the pump was faulty. Or the college janitor that knew better than me, the lowly temp cleaner, and used boiling water and industrial bleach to unblock a toilet, and when that didn't work added industrial drain unblocker (used for fatbergs) that caused the toilet contents to fountian straight up in face followed by a cloud of pretty nasty chemical gas that caused the college to have to shut down for a week and get specialist cleaners called in at over a 150k. he's now the building manager?

I would cut out the area of the panel, slightly smaller than the outside trim edge, then add the trim to the body with a small inner edge. I would cut a flat piece of sheet to fit the hole you cut and put any needed curvature in before gluing it to the inner edge of the trim you added. Next I would mark out the 3 trim pieces on the inside on the thinnest sheet i had, leaving connections between them at each end and glue only the parts you need down. Once the glue has dried you can carefully trim away the 4 connections and you will be left with 3 perfectly inline trim pieces on a finished panel ready for paint and foil. If you wanted to add the lights also, I would cut them out before paint and foil and add some small pite of sheet to the back. Then its just making some lenses after its foiled and painted.

not quite, they were mazda 626 floorpans and running gear but the body was american. mazda didn't have a suitable sports car chassis apart from the rotary rx7 incidentaly the mk2 version was sold in europe too while the first only got sold in america, canada and germany. it was part of the world car program that included the contour/mondeo and fiesta. eventually it led to the second trully world car from ford (the t was first)

I want to see a car show with these guys. I'm bored of the full custom everything so lets get the frank spencers of modified cars on tv