stitchdup

method actors tend to use that as an excuse for just being rude

you can make mesh grille for head lights pretty easily with these grilles. All you need is 2 bits of tube, with the smaller one being slightly smaller than you need and the second slightly larger. (if it was 3 bits of tube that fit tightly together, you would be removing the centre piece) next cut a hexagon or similar to overlap the outer tube. place this over the samllest tube then take the remaining larger piece and force the smaller tube and grille piece inside. If you need a domed grille now is the time to give it that dome by using the end of a brush or similar to make the dome from the inside of the tube. If you now cut a thin ring of the larger tube you can glue this to the edge of the grille and you now have mesh grilles for round headlights similar to whats on the blower bentley kits.

popped into the local motor factors today to get some alligator clips as i just dont have enough hands. thought i'd get some primers/undercoats while i was there as i only have filler primer left. the blues were all reduced to 2.50 so i grabbed a few since they were cheap but the pic isnt showing the pearls. all are from the duplicolour high impact colours and have some nice flops to them.

very cool,

something with an old skool sci fi vibe could be cool in that

Theres a 3d printed engine in 1/10 that will scale nicely to 1/8. its a very nice piece and the moss gearbox is available too. the engine also has a triple carbs upgrade available. I've printed it all in 1/24 and it turned out nice. the only part not included with the engine is the belts but some insulting tape will soon fix that https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/jaguar-xke-e-type-engine

I've used the zero paints compound and the one you get with the micromesh kits. theres really not much between them. the micromesh stuff is in a tiny bottle so i would say the zero compound is better value as it comes in a decent size tin. I have the tamiya stuff ordered locally but there seems to a shortage of it just now as the tamiya distributor cant get any. you also have the option of using some of the finer grades of faraclear compound if theres a body shop nearby. its pretty much whats in all the model compounds but you get a large tin for the price of 3 hobby compounds and they are the same stuff. the g3 is too course for our stuff but the higher grades are ok

i think it depends on the year of the car. just from looking at pics it seems later versions got the black floors while the earlier ones had body coloured. your best bet is to find sales place that specialises in the 500. i was actually watching a tv show where they were doing a resto on one last night and it had a black floor, but only up to the sill tops and rear seat bottom edge.

they did it in europe too. in the uk we got renault trucks badged as dodges, you got our hillman avenger badged as the plymouth cricket. but isn't that the chrysler strategy, sell old european chassis with mopar badges? have you seen the mopar we get? its based on the mk1 new fiat 500 and isn't pretty, lol

i tend to give everything a coat of matt clear before i do any weathering. i find it seems to work better on a matt surface for weathering as subtlety is the key. adding a little at a time and slowly building it up works best too as it easy to over do it. as for products i have various, from crushed up chalks and charcoals through tamiya weathering products and i like them. the tamiya weathering pencils are very subtle but build up well, if slowly, the ak enamels weathering liquids are nice to work with a a little goes a long way but they can turn some clears white if they sit for long. ak also do some faded paints. if you have a dollar shop have a look at the eye shadows, theres some cheap ones that work for dust effects but you need to make sure they are matt as most have a slight metallic sheen. dry brushing works too but i find i have more sucess with enamels for it. you an also make rust dust if you have those soap filled wire scrubbing pads. rinse all the soap out of them and put them in white vinegar until it evaporates and leaves you a rusty lump of black wire. you can crush this into dust for weathering or use it over sticky paint in the same way you would do flocking/emossing powder. gather different colours of dirt too, it can be dried out and used as weathering powder too and theres loads of it just laying around the ground for free.

the first 6 inches aren't too bad but from there its like the designer just gave up

pun questionably a difficult word upon on which to begin the independent clause

Its curbside but thats ok with me. i was surprised to see as i was led to believe it was one time release and wouldn't be out again so i had to grab it when i saw it.

prudence always seemed a strange name especially if you met my aunt prudence who was notorious for her follies

i figured i should see if i could build a front end before i did much more. it would be a waste of time to do everything else only to find i couldn't do it. after looking at what i had in my parts box i pulled out a monogram cord built up. If i swap the front fenders from side to side it will give me most of the look i'm going for and conveniently the centre section had a paerfect curve for the bottom of the grille, and the surround from the 40 ford rear window supplied the upper part. Now I know the hard part is done i need to build up a chassis. its most likelly coming from the packard speedster as its got the length but its possibly going to be a little narrow. Its still going to be a curbside but it also needs to be low so there might be some zeeing in the future along with a touch of widening. both of these tasks will be easiest done if the chassis is assembled. once the chassis is built the wheel position will be set so i can proceed with the fenders then. I'll be using more chopped up 40 parts to fill in the inside edge and build out the rear edge of the outside. The temptation to build a coupe is growing and i changed the rear of 40 just in case i go that way

"officials not be eaten on firdays" said a god

with old tools or similar you might find they have a decent value just as scrap. the metal used in older equipment was a much better quality than we get now so it has value. old wiring can be worth a fair bit too. as for keeping old seemingly useless stuff, farmers have to the worst for it. while we might see 6 ft of scrap wire they see a enough wire for a spot light on the tractor. it might never get fitted or used but it has a plan so its worth keeping. it doesn't matter that the tractor was sold 2 years before and the new tractor already has a light, it has a use so it must be kept

forever can be translated from five minutes when shopping with the other half

while walking through the local record shop today, one of these happened to fall in my basket along with a couple of paints. since i was at the counter already and my leg is sore it seemed like the best thing to do was just to buy it. it'll probably end up as a bomb lowrider

i bought a bottle of rasberry juice on the way to a job interview today. I thought the interviewer was looking at me a bit funny but i put it down to me being much older than the other applicants. I just arrived home to find my teeth are bright blue

getting uglier but once the longer chassis is under it the proportions should work better. i'm taking inspiration from a green pick up i saw on bitchin rides at a car show. The floor part is just being used to keep the body square and probably wont make the final cut. The look i'm going for is long, low and phat so ill be using a monogram packard chassis. I hope it starts to look better soon. the body height has been set by the grille.

You could try running the sharp edge of a blade along the panel line a couple of times before you use the scriber, but i suspect the paint will still chip. You might be better using a darker panel accent instead

I recently got this grille thanks to help from jollyslipper (thanks TJ) and this is just the earliest of ideas forming. The main body and chassis is a well abused monogram 39 chevy delivery thats been chopped built more often than many ancient monuments. this has previously been the delivery, then it got cut into a 4 door sedan then i cut it into this. Its also had fadeaway fenders at one point in its life. so the plan is to swap the roof from the 40 onto the 39, and be sorta in line with the mock up. the 40 body fits no bad behind the doors but i'll have to widen the front around 5 mm but i have a second 40 body to remove the centre of the front from. I can honestly say this will have a constantly evolving plan and at the moment i'm thinking curbside but we all know how those plans go, lol

cool car. it reminds me very strongly off the vauxhall vxr concept cars from the same era, but given how closely vauxhall and holden were related they probably used the same designers

probably originally owned by a us service member and sold when they went back home. theres a few bases within that registration area and you often get ag on us cars