stitchdup

gonna have to watch this

I like to go to where theres been a car crash and gather the coloured light clear parts. They are great for making lights and file to shape easily.

i'd spray the whole wheel in the colour of the recess, then use a small brush and a metalkote type colour to do the polished areas. you will definately need to prime and will prob have to do a second or third prime depending one how the wheel was angled during the print

thats a massive light almost sitting on top of the roof but it looks to be half floating

I like the old monogram kits. Its probably because i didn't know of them until i returned to building and also because they have more of the cars i like such as a 36 3 window and the 2 37s and in the same scale as my other stuff. Besides that when a 1/24 karmann ghia is near the same size as a 1/25 62 chevy it just looks odd in the display to me. I do like the amt and revell 1/25 kits but i am much more likely to trade them than my 1/24 stuff. I also like the lindberg 40 ford even though it gets put down loads, its an easy kit to chop up and the thicker plastic is much more forgiving than the revell kit to work with. But there is an exception if its an unusual vw kit, then scale or brand loses all importance

you need to use very hot water and cool it in very cold waterimmediately when straightening printed resin and try not to do it all at once. it works better to do a little at a time and repeat, or you could just print another which i've taken to doing.

I got fed up with ca always going off before i could use it so now i just buy the multipacks of 1 gram tubes online or from the pound shop so instead of getting a 5g bottle for a fiver, i instead get 10 or 12g for a quid. I like them because i can have an idea of how much 'll use on a build, and i use it for mockups too by dabbing a cocktail stick in it and doing tiny dots of glue, but just enough for a temp hold so i can easily pop the parts off again. When i use it with prints i'll put a piece of masking tape on both sides as ca can often grip really really well on printed resin and will break parts if you try to dismantle after gluing I would avoid gorrila glue, its got very powerful fumes and will destroy clearcoat even if its not been used on that model. I built a hok lime gold bug for an online comp and it was sat next where i was working on a transporter using gorrila glue. there was around 6 inches between the parts i was gluing and it still made the clear look like i'd covered it in superglue and baking soda. the paint was wrecked down to the primer. If you do decide to use it, dont use it after paint

the c2 corvette racecar has a nice looking v8. I cant remember who made the kit though but there are builds of it on the forum

some of his bodies do actually have the inner arts of the light behind the solid lenses. I opened up the lights on one but it was just playing to see what could be done with it and i never did lenses for it but the inners were there. I think some of their newer bodies might have seperate lenses now

I've only got pics of the audi a5. the bodykit came from elsewhere. this was printed at 0.03 layer height

I've used it to colour chrome and i imagine glass would be much the same. If its a one piece glass it can be difficult to get the cover even if spraying the inside of the glass.

or hunting parts for the 4 pots

it looks like the 55 grille surround with a couple of bars added in place of the grille

sweet

you can get the gmc files from andrey bexrodney. he does a load of versions of this era gm trucks

I think if members here were using ai to improve their builds other members would soon call them out about if they try to be cheat us. it would be in the same class as scamming imo as its a lie. is it worth losing the respect of your peers for 5 mins of kudos? I dont think it is.

he's not the first. theres a 59 chevy with 3d flames but i think this guy is trying to copy the kuhl racing cars with the engraved paintjobs

check for a build thread? ai would probably be more obvious in those. it would be where we can see if its real or not. also ai colouring and shading is much brighter than real pics are. its always seems to try and make pics look like they are hd

I think the decals might have got damp, fujimis old decals often disintegrate over time and sometimes its can take less than 2 year. I've got loads like that and they are all 8s to mid 90s japanese kits. The revell and amt decals tend to be a little thicker which might be why they last better

just to confuse the issue, fenders are called wings in the uk

have a look at any restart/homestart type stores too. I help out in one on a wed morning and they get a lot of display cabinets in like new condition that sell for pennies on the pound. the middle of lidl is good too, i got one of my cabinets there. also if you are in a housing assosiation flat they might have a store of left behind furniture though most goes to restart type shops. and shop bankruptcy sales can get cheap display units, often with lighting, if you go in on the last day and make a silly offer. jewellery shops are great for those cabinets

wow, great deals on the cyber truck, simply buy one and get a free flatpak ikea version

There is a 3 piece version in one of the coupe or van kits. I've got one molded in slime green but i dont know if its a better fit

I've printed a couple of his audis. for the cost they are decent but i wouldn't pay more for them. they all need the door shuts redone. sometimes its the only game in town for some stuff

the bird hitting the spanish fighter jet is real. the photographer got the whole chain of pics at an airshow. he was interviewed (possibly in the telegraph paper and siad it was a million to one he got it on film.