bh1701

A couple of tips from me - I use ScaleFinishes paints for most of my car models now. I like that it comes pre-thinned for use in an airbrush, so no need to try to figure out much thinning agent to add! (There are other paints that come pre-thinned that are likely just as good. But, I stay with what has worked for me!) ScaleFinishes has paints that duplicate the actual colors on many different cars and model years. I use a single action airbrush. I tried a double action one and never was able to master the intricacies of using it. Go ahead and get an airbrush. Once you get the hang of it, you'll wonder why you didn't do this sooner! Bart

Very nicely done! Bart

Gang, I need your ideas! I will be building a model of the Lockheed Jetstart VC140B - painted in the presidential aircraft colors. I have a Roden 1/44th scale model of this plane. The actual plane has several areas that have ae bright shiny chrome finish. Any ideas on how I could replicate this finish on the model? A couple of pictures of the plane are attached below. Some of my thoughts were: Using BareMetal foil I'd mark the shape of the chromed areas with Tamiya Masking Tape and then apply the foil. I figure the masking tape under the foil would give me a path to follow with my Xacto knife. Using the FusionFirm Silver that has been discussed in other posts I bought some of this and it is very shiny! However, I am worried about the issues when it gets touched and turns dull. Being on a number of areas on the plane, I would worry that these areas might be touched at some time during assembly or after. Using Tamiya's TS-83 Metallic Silver They recommend applying it over a gloss black layer, and also say NOT to put clear over it. This makes me worry that it is just like many other good chrome finishes that suffer when it is cleared or is subject to dulling when touched. What other ideas might you have for me? Thanks, Bart

I can identify with your pain! I also had some issues with mine, as well. I did persevere and more or less won the battle. The biggest challenge was getting the front of the interior and cowl to fit snugly to the body. I followed the instructions and glued the cowl piece (where the windshield wipers are) to the dashboard. When I tried to glue the interior in, I could not get the cowl piece to fit flush with the underside of the hood. There was quite a gap visible! This also impacted how the wheels aligned to the wheel wells. I made some adjustments and finally got it to fit pretty much as it should. After watching a couple of "build" videos, I learned that it was better to glue to cowl separately to the underside of the body first, and then the interior will fit perfectly when you glue it in. There is a raised line under the hood that the cowl fits up against. If you follow the instructions and glue the cowl to the dashboard, there isn't anything to indicate exactly where it fits - so you are basically making a guess on where to glue it. I obviously guessed wrong. I also glued the rear hatch into place. I had one corner that did not want to sit flush with the body. It was also going to be very hard to open the hatch since it fit very tightly into the body. You really can't see much of the engine when the hatch is open; you can see the same amount of engine through the window in the hatch. I did buy another kit that I will build some day - using the knowledge I gained from this first build. Bart

Great looking build! Love the color! Bart

The conversion to the hardtop came out well. Great looking model! Bart

Thanks, Warren! Your model looks great! Wish I had thought of using monofilament thread. If I ever do some more kits that need rigging, I will give that a try. The monofilament thread also would not have the "fuzzies" that thread often develops. Another reason to use it. Bart

Very nice! My brother has a restored 64 XKE roadster. Got to drive it while I was visiting him last month. Bart

I usually build cars and starships, so I decided to try something different. These are the Revell 1/72nd scale Sopwith Camel and Fokker Triplane kits. I had built these as a kid and thought I'd try them again. These are tiny models - measuring about 3" long and 5" wide. Nice kits with a lot of tiny, delicate parts! For the rigging on the Sopwith Camel, instead of string I used the thinnest plastic rod I could find. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to do the string on something so small and figured the rod might be a little easier to position and glue into place. It's a bit oversized, but I think it still looks OK. The Fokker didn't have much rigging done - I only used string and used it on the elevators and rudder. Thanks for checking these out! Bart

Looks great! I have one of these in my restoration pile, too! It's still in really good shape, so taking it apart, stripping paint, and rebuilding it is all that is needed. Bart

Thanks! It is an expensive paint - I looked at Hobbytown USA's website and it around $19 ( but it is Out of Stock!) I will consider using this for my plane, but I'll also ask the experts here for other ideas once I receive the kit. Bart

Looks great! What did you use to get that shiny silver finish on it? Going to be tackling a plane model soon that will need some shiny silver in certain areas. Mostly build car models, so planes are a little new for me. Thanks, Bart

Very clever! Looks great. Bart

Great looking build! Bart

That is an excellent and very clean build! I also like the photo with the mirrors! Bart

Excellent build! Bart

Very well done! Would never have known it was 1/32nd scale. Bart

Very nice! Bart

Very nice! The exterior color and the vinyl roof are well done. Bart

Thanks, Rusty! When I looked at photos of the various color combinations, the gray/white combo really caught my eye. I thought it looked pretty sharp, and the gray was not a color I had used on any other models - an important consideration for me as I don't like to have too many models on my shelves that are the same color as others. Bart

David, Thanks! Actually doing the lettering with a toothpick is actually pretty quick to do, but it does definitely require steady hands and a light touch. The window trim and side trim is all done with a brush. I like using acrylic craft paint for these areas since you can use a sharp toothpick to remove any stray paint that gets where it doesn't belong. I often don't even mask off these areas - a steady hand and a toothpick to remove unwanted paint usually works for me. The acrylic metallic silver may not be as shiny as BMF, but the ease of applying the paint is the determining factor for me. Bart

Here is my latest completion - an AMT 1/25th scale 1957 Ford Fairlane 500. For an older kit, it went together very easily without any issues. The exterior colors are Tamiya Base White and ScaleFinishes Platinum Gray. The chrome trim is all hand painted - using Metallic Silver Craft paint for the window trim and the side trim. The script was hand painted using a very sharp toothpick dipped into paint from a Molotow-style chrome pen. The dashboard gauges and details are from BestModelCarParts. The kit featured doors that opened and closed, but I glued them in the closed position. I've never felt that the opening doors look that great and often don't close flush with the body. I have used magnets before to hold the doors closed on other kits and have had mixed results when doing that. Thanks for checking this out! Bart

Looks great! Bart

Len, Can you post some pics of the item(s) you airbrushed? I've got a bumper that need to be done and am wondering if airbrushing the bumper would work. Did you use a gloss black paint as an undercoat? Thanks, Bart

Looks great. All of additions you made look fantastic! Glad you found a pristine kit - nothing about that box would suggest otherwise! 🙂 Bart