bh1701

I agree! I had considered trying to fill in all of the depressions, but thought it was going to be too much work. Since it's a Coupe and has full window glass all around, I figured the seats wouldn't be that prominent when viewing the model. Bart

Here is my model of a Mini Cooper. I think it represent the car from the early 2000's. It is built from Revell's 1/25th scale kit. The kits made and designed by their location in Germany are a joy to work on. Parts go together well and the finished model is very solid. Paints are Tamiya's Bright Red and Pure White. The design on the interior seats is a little odd; I couldn't find any examples of real cars with that pattern on the seats. I painted them according to the instructions. Emblems, license plates, and dashboard gauges are from the decal sheet that comes with the kit. Thanks for checking this out! Bart

Thanks, Devin! I got both of these models on eBay. You might want to look there. I just did a search for "Revell Sopwith Camel" and found quite a few listings at pretty decent prices. Bart

For this one, I used the Fusion Firm Chrome Paint that has been discussed lately on the forum. Shake the bottle really well! I will get a little bit on the end of a sharpened toothpick. If I think there is too much on it, I will tap it lightly on a piece of paper or plastic sheet to remove some of the paint. Very carefully and slowly, apply the chrome to the script. Sometimes I will use the pointed tip to apply the chrome, or I may use the edge of the toothpick to go over the script. For the "C" in Cutlass, I probably used the tip; for the remaining letters I probably used the edge of the toothpick and also the tip sometimes (Whatever seems to work best is the way I approach this). You may need to do this multiple times to get the right amount of paint on the letters. A lot of patience, good vision (or a good magnifier), and steady hands are needed. One good thing I discovered is that I was able to remove any chrome that strayed off the letters. The body was Scale Finishes paint ( a lacquer) and I figured out that lighter fluid would remove the chrome without affecting the lacquer paint. I'd apply little bit of lighter fluid to a sharpened toothpick or modeling swab and would use that to remove chrome where needed. I used this method to remove some chrome that had gotten inside of the C. I have done the BMF under paint method on some models. It's a bit of work to remove the paint from the script, and I can often see the edge of the foil that is outside of the script. It looks really nice if done properly, but I think my painting method works well, too. Here are some other examples done with this technique. All are 1/25 scale models. Hope this helps! Bart

Your Nova looks great! My first car was this 66 Mustang! And, of course, I built a model of it (along with a model of a 75 Mustang II I owned)!

Looks great. Your photos are amazing!

Thanks! Yes, this is the AMT (Round 2 models) kit that was re-released a little while ago. Bart

Success! My post was accepted this time. I just rewrote the text and the title and it was accepted. Thanks for all of the quick replies! Bart

This is my 1964 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible. Painted with ScaleFinishes Pacific Mist. Chrome trim was done using BMF and Fusion Firm chrome paint. The vent windows, Cutlass and Oldsmobile script, and wheel well trim was painted on with Fusion Firm; the remaining chrome was done with BMF. I used black embossing powder for the carpet, and the dash gauges used an image I printed from the internet. Thanks for checking this out! Bart

Thanks - sounds like my problem. I will look at what I am posting to see if I find any forbidden words, or will rewrite my text. Bart

So, everything seems to work fine in this section of the site. But in the Under Glass > Model Cars section, I still get the error shown above. I have restarted my PC, and have logged out of the site. Still no success posting to that section of the site. Anybody have any ideas on what's causing this and how to resolve it? Bart

Testing to see if I can add a photo here. Bart

Just tried again in the Under Glass > Model Cars section. Still get taken to a screen that says " Oops! That page can’t be found. It looks like nothing was found at this location. Maybe try a search? I tried dragging a photo into the post (instead of selecting them), and still did not work. Bart

So, I was able to create this post - so it seems to work at least in this section of the site. The post I am trying to create is in the Under Glass section. I create the title, body text, and add some photos. When I hit SUBMIT there, I get the message. I am going to try again now. Bart

I have tried to create a new post several times. When I hit SUBMIT, I get taken to an error screen saying that the content couldn't be found. Is there a current issue affecting the submission of new posts? Bart

A great looking model!

A couple of tips from me - I use ScaleFinishes paints for most of my car models now. I like that it comes pre-thinned for use in an airbrush, so no need to try to figure out much thinning agent to add! (There are other paints that come pre-thinned that are likely just as good. But, I stay with what has worked for me!) ScaleFinishes has paints that duplicate the actual colors on many different cars and model years. I use a single action airbrush. I tried a double action one and never was able to master the intricacies of using it. Go ahead and get an airbrush. Once you get the hang of it, you'll wonder why you didn't do this sooner! Bart

Very nicely done! Bart

Gang, I need your ideas! I will be building a model of the Lockheed Jetstart VC140B - painted in the presidential aircraft colors. I have a Roden 1/44th scale model of this plane. The actual plane has several areas that have ae bright shiny chrome finish. Any ideas on how I could replicate this finish on the model? A couple of pictures of the plane are attached below. Some of my thoughts were: Using BareMetal foil I'd mark the shape of the chromed areas with Tamiya Masking Tape and then apply the foil. I figure the masking tape under the foil would give me a path to follow with my Xacto knife. Using the FusionFirm Silver that has been discussed in other posts I bought some of this and it is very shiny! However, I am worried about the issues when it gets touched and turns dull. Being on a number of areas on the plane, I would worry that these areas might be touched at some time during assembly or after. Using Tamiya's TS-83 Metallic Silver They recommend applying it over a gloss black layer, and also say NOT to put clear over it. This makes me worry that it is just like many other good chrome finishes that suffer when it is cleared or is subject to dulling when touched. What other ideas might you have for me? Thanks, Bart

I can identify with your pain! I also had some issues with mine, as well. I did persevere and more or less won the battle. The biggest challenge was getting the front of the interior and cowl to fit snugly to the body. I followed the instructions and glued the cowl piece (where the windshield wipers are) to the dashboard. When I tried to glue the interior in, I could not get the cowl piece to fit flush with the underside of the hood. There was quite a gap visible! This also impacted how the wheels aligned to the wheel wells. I made some adjustments and finally got it to fit pretty much as it should. After watching a couple of "build" videos, I learned that it was better to glue to cowl separately to the underside of the body first, and then the interior will fit perfectly when you glue it in. There is a raised line under the hood that the cowl fits up against. If you follow the instructions and glue the cowl to the dashboard, there isn't anything to indicate exactly where it fits - so you are basically making a guess on where to glue it. I obviously guessed wrong. I also glued the rear hatch into place. I had one corner that did not want to sit flush with the body. It was also going to be very hard to open the hatch since it fit very tightly into the body. You really can't see much of the engine when the hatch is open; you can see the same amount of engine through the window in the hatch. I did buy another kit that I will build some day - using the knowledge I gained from this first build. Bart

Great looking build! Love the color! Bart

The conversion to the hardtop came out well. Great looking model! Bart

Thanks, Warren! Your model looks great! Wish I had thought of using monofilament thread. If I ever do some more kits that need rigging, I will give that a try. The monofilament thread also would not have the "fuzzies" that thread often develops. Another reason to use it. Bart

Very nice! My brother has a restored 64 XKE roadster. Got to drive it while I was visiting him last month. Bart

I usually build cars and starships, so I decided to try something different. These are the Revell 1/72nd scale Sopwith Camel and Fokker Triplane kits. I had built these as a kid and thought I'd try them again. These are tiny models - measuring about 3" long and 5" wide. Nice kits with a lot of tiny, delicate parts! For the rigging on the Sopwith Camel, instead of string I used the thinnest plastic rod I could find. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to do the string on something so small and figured the rod might be a little easier to position and glue into place. It's a bit oversized, but I think it still looks OK. The Fokker didn't have much rigging done - I only used string and used it on the elevators and rudder. Thanks for checking these out! Bart