Can-Con

I've been using it for over 25 years, Len. Took me years to figure out the best way to use it, here's some tips,, I thin it with regular rubbing alcohol. Cleanup too. The cheep stuff works fine. It really needs to be thinned. It comes out of the can like porridge out of a fire hose, heavy and chunky. Multiple thin coats through an airbrush is the way to go. A coat of primer or other flat paint under it is a good idea with bare plastic. It doesn't stick well to bare plastic usually but where you're going over something already painted, it should be fine. It will block dyes from coming up through your paint and will also block hot paints from effecting the plastic under it. Good luck with it.

Looks fantastic! ??? The red paint and 5 spoke wheels really set that car off.

One of my favorite female singers. Not many could even come close to her.

Paul, I don't think there the same windshield but I'm not sure. You could try one from a similar year Thunderbird. The real cars were built on the same floor pans with slight differences like wheelbase.

Ah, OK, I get your point now. Looking at it like that it was a strange move. Sorry if I came off hostile.

So what? They were made to be used on whatever kit you like, not just Revell kits. How many people have you seen post a kit on here with parts from some other manufacturer? Why would AMT sell parts pack whitewall or white letter tires when any AMT kit you'd want to use them on come with them now already? ?

Here's a couple more pics. The old chassis was painted black and the cat was molded in black. I don't see any difference in color or shine after spraying.

Starting the rebuild of this '77 Volare Road Runner I've had for years. Getting a bit more radical with it but not too radical. Hemi from the reissued '76 Dart Sport. Intake manifold from the MPC '69 Charger Daytona and blower and hat from the Revell '68 Vette. It will be slightly tubbed.

I've only sprayed is 2 days ago but it's already pretty durable with normal handling. The Revell parts with factory chrome I'm working with right now are scuffing up more then these are. I'm thinking it should be more durable after more drying time but only time will tell.

No different then using a set of AMT parts pack tires or a set of Aoshima or Fujimi wheels on a kit made by someone else.

I've also used Alclad in the past with great results but this doesn't need a basecoat or to be airbrushed. I'm assuming this is referencing the durability questions.

It was intended for use with any van kits, not just the Revell kits which were already customs. I had the set they made for pickups back then and it featured a mid '70s Dodge pickup in the instruction illustrations, which Revell never made, only MPC.

Steve, the wheel I sprayed were molded in grey and were never plated originally. They were from an MPC dodge van with the big hotrod decals on the sides.

I'll be trying that later in the week sometime.

No, it's the newer '66 kit chassis that's correct. I had to take the fuel pump out of the tank on my '69 a couple times to clean it. The tank is definitely on the passenger side and the tire well is on the driver's side.

I used to own a '69 and can say with %100 confidence that the '66 chassis is correct. Use whatever you can from under the hood too except the engine. Buick dropped the nailhead and switched to the 430 in '67.

I doubt it would make a difference Al. This stuff it pretty opaque and goes on pretty thick and evaporates down unlike Alclad and a few others that need a basecoat and go on in mist coats. But I think I'll dig out something molded in black and shoot it later to see if there's a difference.

It's not been reissued. It was butchered into the race car in the late '60s or early '70s and that's what it has been ever since unfortunately. Only way to get a stock one is the original annual kit from whichever year you choose.

I just tried mine Joe. It's only been sprayed about 6 hours ago and I couldn't rub it off. Probably be even more durable after it's completely dry.

Got some this morning and tested it out on a couple parts I had laying around. No real prep, just made sure they were clean and dust free as possible and sprayed right from the can. This has only been drying for about 6 hours and is already pretty durable. I think it will be as safe to handle as any other model paint after it's dried longer. Here's an old resin bumper I cast years ago. ,, and sitting on a chrome tree for comparison. A Jo-Han 442 front bumper that had poor chrome. Just pulled it off the car, cleaned it up a bit with a toothbrush and a bit of water to get the dust off and sprayed strait from the can, as the rest of the stuff in these pics,, , , , and here's the kicker,, an old MPC Cragar sprayed on the right compared to a brand new wheel on the left,, So, while not 100% as shiny as kit plating, it's almost there. Some probably will prefer this over kit plating. Certainly better then most chrome sprays and super easy, just spray it on.I will be using this in the future for probably anything I need chromed.

Like I said before, Getting your information from Scalemates is like getting your daily news from the National Inquirer. It MAY be correct but then again, maybe not. But it's fun to look at all the pretty pictures. ?

Got this at my local hobby shop today. Sprayed some stuff and will post in the appropriate section later.

It can. I know from experience. I'd just set sand it smooth with fine grit paper, down to at least 3200 grit and repaint. Resin can handle hot paints no problem. BUT, if you really need to strip it, I've seen people strip Duplicolor paint off resin with lacquer thinner and cotton balls. Just wipe the paint off with damp cotton balls. I have tried it myself and it works but I didn't need to do a whole body.

I don't think Keith does custom work aside from printing his already created decals in custom colors but it wouldn't hurt to ask.