Michael jones

Gidday, its the Tamiya kit. I just removed the bumpers, added some Asuka wheels and some other minor details. I think there is a Gunze Sangyo Alfa kit which has the wide fenders etc. Would be a good kit to build I reckon.

The paint is Tamiya racing blue TS51 with 2k clear over the top thinned with mr levelling thinner. No polishing compounds used apart from a couple of areas of minor scratches caused during the foiling process.

Done

Good choices are what makes or breaks a company. Especially when choosing cars to model. That Lancia Delta S4 mentioned above, has a worldwide following with iconic Martini sponsorship. A very smart choice.

A bit more progress... edit - I just noticed a little dot of molotow chrome on the oil filter, gone soon

Gidday, Its a 2 part automotive clear. Much easier to get a super shiny finish, but not good for your health unless you use the correct PPE

thanks guys for all the comments

Started.. 2k clear came out great, no polishing required mr levelling thinner used - about 20% with the 2k.

Tamiya 1/20 Lotus 78 - done

How long till that Starion comes out I wonder? I guess either way the Volvo, Audi and Lancia are still in my to do pile...

You hit the nail on the head there K3. I think the truth is Aoshima (road cars)/ Beemax (racing/rally cars) have really taken the market over in Japan. Tamiya seem to have found themselves in an awkward position with odd choices. Of course the American market is pretty much spoken for by Revell/AMT/Round 2 etc. I think if Tamiya want to get back in the market, they should do more Japanese cars. For example the Tamiya Mazda RX7 Efini, must have sold a phenomenal number of units. Same for the Nissan GTR R32 and R34. These are the cars young people relate too. They don't have a huge amount of patience for large decalling/ complicated builds. The Ford GT was already covered by Revell and is not Japanese so probably won't sell that well. The Toyoto Lemans winner may sell well, however will be a complicated kitset for inexperienced builders (and probably me too).

No problem at all. Just keep reusing the same fluid

I have tried Easy Off which smelled awful and is probably very bad for you. It was very slow to work and didn't work well either. I tried brake fluid which worked amazing. Even takes off 2k clear covered paint. Highly recommended.

The interior looks really cool. Overall awesome.

Thanks for all the comments guys.

Yep TS52 paint

The wheels are from a company in Japan called Asuka Models. The paint is Tamiya TS52 over Tamiya white primer. The NZ touch is the NZ performance car magazine in the passenger seat. A very popular magazine in NZ .

Fujimi Nissan Skyline R31 GTS-R - Done. Interior fit caused some headaches, but I think it looks cool. Added a little New Zealand touch as well. Mike

Hi guys, after reading about it on the internet on several different forums, I thought I would try tamiya extra thin cement on some clear parts. It works!! No fogging and strong. So I guess there is no need to use other types of "clear glue" when it works well. There must be quite a difference between the regular orange top tamiya cement and the tamiya extra thin cement. The only thing I will say, is if the windscreen is not a good fit for the surround, a thicker glue may work better.

I have used window tint film on this AE86. It was some stuff I bought from Aliexpress. Came rolled up and crinkled. Went down with a few small bubbles. I tried my best to get rid of them. The stuff is quite sticky which is great. I think the best idea is to go to a window tinting business and ask for some off cuts. At least they will be flatter then... This idea came from the Nascar modellers who do this all the time.

Probably also depends on air temps/ airbrush pressure/ nozzle size as well. Location New Zealand BTW not Australia

Tamiya or Mr Surfacer are very reliable great primers but yes expensive. I tried Plasticote T235, and found it needs thinning if applied via airbrush or you get spider webs, but is ok straight from the can. I think a good compromise for cost is to use the Tamiya or Mr Surfacer primers for body panels, but use the Plasticote for interiors and other underbody parts where the finish is not so important.

Same here, 2k is the only clear I have used now for a few years. Brilliant stuff. You can get cheap automotive stuff as well. The model stuff is much more expensive.

I wonder if the Lancia LC2 is the protar kit? Hope not, but still want it anyway, along with the escort and of course the Tamiya Toyota Lemans racer

Maybe its closer to 1/23 scale . I think I am addicted to Beemax. I have the Volvo and Audi to build, plus of course the Lancia when I can afford it... Also waiting for the Starion and Starlet too.