Michael jones

Maybe someone can translate to see if it is true that the Skyline 2000 GTR is coming out from Hasegawa: https://carsmeet.jp/2022/04/01/219224/?fbclid=IwAR0u4OWydnOJKvRVy_YF4c_ZiBTKsGyT3I6Ur5F4YRoeYuGdV4CRxiZu89Q

Very easy to fix by spraying the black over again in those areas carefully. The clear was applied too heavy so it melted the below paint.

This happens usually because the part is left to dry in the sun with the tape left in place. The tape etches into the paint. This question often comes up on facebook and is not usually, if ever - residue. Ever since I stopped this practice, the problem totally disappeared for me. Mike

I'm guessing this is chrome vinyl. I have some at home that looks something like this.

Just FYI do not use polishing compounds before applying the clear coat. That will surely cause fisheyes.

Looks really cool!

Amazing how you turned a rough body into a piece of art with a glass like finish!

The OP never actually stated about having problems. He was asking about decanting and leaving it to sit. Anyway you keep doing what you do, and I will keep having great success with my method. Regards

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From my experience no need to do any of the things listed above, just spray from the can straight into the side of the airbrush cup and straight onto your model. Done it hundreds of times! Especially good with tamiya spray cans as makes no mess at all(of course I have not tried every brand of spray can!). No need for extra bottles or straws. Just do it carefully and all will be grand. No need to wait for off gassing either, as that is how it always comes out of the can anyway if sprayed directly onto your model, so no different through an airbrush. The best place to store paint is in the original spray can.

I for one don't think plastic dye leeches out into the paint. From my observations it is simply that if you use all lacquer primer and paint over red plastic, you can reactivate the paint below causing the red to show. This can even happen when applying the clear coat (and even 2k!) I have seen this on other coloured plastic before as well - not just red! That is why bin zinsser is very effective at stopping this happening.

Just wondering what exact formula are you refering too? E7 clear is there own brand product and works good. You seem to forget almost everything is made in china or other countries in the region now......

If you spray the paint a bit too wet, it can reactivate the paint/primer below causing this issue. Zinsser bin works great through an airbrush but terrible from the can. It works well because it is shellac based so not so affected by lacquer thinners inside the base coat/ clear coat.

Use tamiya tape or washi tape. Cut a fresh edge with a sharp knife and burnish down. Then spray a light coat or two of the base colour or clear coat of the same type of paint to seal the edge. Then spray your second colour over that.

One that works quite well for stripping paint from plastic is mr levelling thinner. Brush it on or dunk it for smaller parts. If you have just painted the part and you don't like it, this stuff will take it off very fast. No ill affects to the plastic so far (mostly Tamiya/Aoshima/Fujimi plastic but also some Mistercraft too...

I used Indycals decal set for this car. It came with decals for the louvers. Thanks very much.

Will we ever see the Revell Datsun 510 racer again? Thanks

Finished Alfa 158. Basic kit but tricky to make nice. I also added spokes to the wheels. Tamiya LP Italian Red and 2k clear.

The Dan Gurney Lotus Racer will be interesting. If anyone knows which kit this is, please share. thanks

I have been watching this person's youtube channel for a while. He is very interesting to watch. You can learn a lot very fast from these kind of videos. Mike

Mr levelling thinner takes off paint immediately of any kind. Just brush it on...

I dont think you need to spend a decade or more building cars to make a very nice model with shiny paint. I think you can learn the most important things quite quickly if you spend time reading/ watching youtube. There are some key elements that really make a big difference.... Mr levelling thinner really helps reduce orange peel for example. People who use 2k clear, more often than not, get amazing results. I know I was amazed from the first time I used it. You don't need an expensive airbrush to get good results.... Of course practice does make a difference, but if you are using the wrong materials, you can practice all you like and fail badly. A lot of the failed attempts I see on here and other places, are all things people have done multiple times before, people can learn a lot from other peoples mistakes. A bit like how many people spray Tamiya lacquer over decals then wonder why they melt. Or lacquer over enamel is another example. Lessons learnt by others can really help you not make the same mistake. Mike

Tamiya tape or equivalent washi tape works great, but also bare metal foil is really great the few times I have used it.

I have had good luck with nail polish, but also had one model which faded a bit. The blue colour turned purple over time on the light facing side. I also used nail polish clear on that particular model so probably didn't have the UV resistance like other models covered with 2k clear. Never left in the sun (always in covered).

There has been some news on facebook that Tamiya are producing the Team Suzuki ECSTAR GSX-RR '20 motogp bike in 1/12 (December release). We will see if that is true... Mike