Michael jones

Thanks for all the comments!

Fujimi Silvia done! Engine bay opened up, Tamiya engine added + 3d printed turbo etc, Zoomon seats, Leds, stainless steel exhaust muffler etc. Video of LED lights included. There are progression photos on instagram @ixlr8nz 317402488_654595179720514_839581878724840253_n.mp4

It must have been revell enamel they used in the video. Sorry about that. I saw a tin and instantly thought humbrol!

The very end of the video gives a great comparison. If you test on a scrap piece, I think you may find tamiya/humbrol/testors enamels will give similar results.

https://youtu.be/HvCLDBADzH8 I think this may have been the video I learned about enamels over molotow.

It is relating to alclad only though which will get slightly different results to molotow.

https://youtu.be/kB9wwCyG1dw Per Barbatos Rex's channel, the s-02 wins. I had forgotten about this video...

No - Tamiya enamel clear X-22....

Gidday, I wouldn't comment if I hadn't used it(on molotow). I believe I even posted results about the S-02 over molotow a couple of years ago on this forum (the picture posted above is my hand even!) The tamiya enamel is equally as good(maybe even slightly better), but may be hard for you to find as you are from the USA.... Another alternative I heard works is testors enamel clear. I guess it is very similar to tamiya enamel so might have a very similar result. - Not tried by me however, but just a thought as you probably have some or can get some easily.

Tamiya enamel clear also works very well surprisingly very similar results to S-02 chrome sealer.

Looks like you needed to use a softening solution for the decals

Dot 3 brake fluid (slow stripper) or mr levelling thinner (very fast stripper).

This is probably because the paint job was left out in the sun to dry(or warm place) causing the tape (even tamiya) to etch the paint... Some people believe its because the tape was left on too long, but this is not true. Tape can be left on for a week, no problem in a cool spot out of the sun. Also if you sprayed the paint too wet, it can do the same thing...

Have you actually tried the stuff? It is much harder to cut on the model than BMF with a scalpel (I compared it in a quick test on the same day with same blade - but not a brand new blade). it is very very flexable, means when you put a scalpel through it, it tries to pull the chrome instead of cutting it, unlike BMF which cuts very easily with a scalpel on the model. But as I said before, it looks much better than BMF and if pre cut, I can see it being a better product for that situation. Mike

The problem with the Hasegawa mirror finish, is that it is very stretch and therefore hard to cut....You have to apply a lot more pressure than BMF so therefore is going to damage the paint work if you get it wrong. Looks much better than BMF for reflectiveness however. It probably works great if precut to the correct shape and size. The thickness isn't really an issue...

His channel is great, does not cover everything, but in general an excellent source of colour paint choices over different base coats. This guy is a legend!

2k clear all the way, but I know Mr Color UV cut is very popular in Asia.

Hopefully a falcon and a torana xu1 coming later.

Hi guys, work in progress nissan silvia s14. Engine added (was curbside). Still clear coat + a lot more work to do.

Gidday Steve, Mr levelling thinner works fast as a paint stripper for Tamiya paint/primer. I use this on small parts all the time with perfect results. But to keep things cheap dot3 or 4 will do the job....

Its a shame the tyres are too high profile and the wheels are so far inside the guards (narrow track I mean). This looks stupid to my eyes!

I do own the LP smoke but haven't tried it yet. I believe the result would be the same - just down to how dark you want it.

Yeah see attached photo. It has LED lights on in the photo BTW. If you want it a brighter red, just lightly tint the clear plastic with smoke on the inside. I used the spray can lacquer smoke btw. All paint on the inside as far as I recall. Mike

Painted on inside - Tamiya smoke then Tamiya LP clear red which is much more "red" than Tamiya acrylic clear red. Chrome backing on body if i remember correctly.