Michael jones

The problem with the Hasegawa mirror finish, is that it is very stretch and therefore hard to cut....You have to apply a lot more pressure than BMF so therefore is going to damage the paint work if you get it wrong. Looks much better than BMF for reflectiveness however. It probably works great if precut to the correct shape and size. The thickness isn't really an issue...

His channel is great, does not cover everything, but in general an excellent source of colour paint choices over different base coats. This guy is a legend!

2k clear all the way, but I know Mr Color UV cut is very popular in Asia.

Hopefully a falcon and a torana xu1 coming later.

Hi guys, work in progress nissan silvia s14. Engine added (was curbside). Still clear coat + a lot more work to do.

Gidday Steve, Mr levelling thinner works fast as a paint stripper for Tamiya paint/primer. I use this on small parts all the time with perfect results. But to keep things cheap dot3 or 4 will do the job....

Its a shame the tyres are too high profile and the wheels are so far inside the guards (narrow track I mean). This looks stupid to my eyes!

I do own the LP smoke but haven't tried it yet. I believe the result would be the same - just down to how dark you want it.

Yeah see attached photo. It has LED lights on in the photo BTW. If you want it a brighter red, just lightly tint the clear plastic with smoke on the inside. I used the spray can lacquer smoke btw. All paint on the inside as far as I recall. Mike

Painted on inside - Tamiya smoke then Tamiya LP clear red which is much more "red" than Tamiya acrylic clear red. Chrome backing on body if i remember correctly.

Maybe someone can translate to see if it is true that the Skyline 2000 GTR is coming out from Hasegawa: https://carsmeet.jp/2022/04/01/219224/?fbclid=IwAR0u4OWydnOJKvRVy_YF4c_ZiBTKsGyT3I6Ur5F4YRoeYuGdV4CRxiZu89Q

Very easy to fix by spraying the black over again in those areas carefully. The clear was applied too heavy so it melted the below paint.

This happens usually because the part is left to dry in the sun with the tape left in place. The tape etches into the paint. This question often comes up on facebook and is not usually, if ever - residue. Ever since I stopped this practice, the problem totally disappeared for me. Mike

I'm guessing this is chrome vinyl. I have some at home that looks something like this.

Just FYI do not use polishing compounds before applying the clear coat. That will surely cause fisheyes.

Looks really cool!

Amazing how you turned a rough body into a piece of art with a glass like finish!

The OP never actually stated about having problems. He was asking about decanting and leaving it to sit. Anyway you keep doing what you do, and I will keep having great success with my method. Regards

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From my experience no need to do any of the things listed above, just spray from the can straight into the side of the airbrush cup and straight onto your model. Done it hundreds of times! Especially good with tamiya spray cans as makes no mess at all(of course I have not tried every brand of spray can!). No need for extra bottles or straws. Just do it carefully and all will be grand. No need to wait for off gassing either, as that is how it always comes out of the can anyway if sprayed directly onto your model, so no different through an airbrush. The best place to store paint is in the original spray can.

I for one don't think plastic dye leeches out into the paint. From my observations it is simply that if you use all lacquer primer and paint over red plastic, you can reactivate the paint below causing the red to show. This can even happen when applying the clear coat (and even 2k!) I have seen this on other coloured plastic before as well - not just red! That is why bin zinsser is very effective at stopping this happening.

Just wondering what exact formula are you refering too? E7 clear is there own brand product and works good. You seem to forget almost everything is made in china or other countries in the region now......

If you spray the paint a bit too wet, it can reactivate the paint/primer below causing this issue. Zinsser bin works great through an airbrush but terrible from the can. It works well because it is shellac based so not so affected by lacquer thinners inside the base coat/ clear coat.

Use tamiya tape or washi tape. Cut a fresh edge with a sharp knife and burnish down. Then spray a light coat or two of the base colour or clear coat of the same type of paint to seal the edge. Then spray your second colour over that.

One that works quite well for stripping paint from plastic is mr levelling thinner. Brush it on or dunk it for smaller parts. If you have just painted the part and you don't like it, this stuff will take it off very fast. No ill affects to the plastic so far (mostly Tamiya/Aoshima/Fujimi plastic but also some Mistercraft too...