Michael jones

Thanks for the info, sounds exactly the same as decaldoc decals (which I would avoid). Its interesting that you used the Indian based company which was part owned by an Australian person until recently I believe (now the Aussie guy owns digidecals I think). I have found spotmodel decal service to have extremely opaque whites, but you need to use tamiya decal adhesive to make them stick well and softeners do not work. I can show you some photos of this, but don't want to hijack your thread. Regards Mike

Came out great! who printed your decals? they look very nice.

I have about 6 or 7 of those cheap 0.5mm nozzle dual action gravity fed airbrushes from aliexpress. They work great, however sometimes you need to drill out the nozzle cap slightly to let the correct amount of air flow through. That is the only issue I have found with them. I have an airbrush for whites only, colours only, blacks only, clears only etc etc. This is a major advantage. I also buy the replacement nozzles just in case there is ever a problem. Some of these airbrushes have done years of work and still go great.

Hi guys, See the linked forum thread for some interesting info/pictures regarding the above cars that may be released this year. https://forum.f1m.com/viewtopic.php?t=33843&start=10 Mike

You can draw it yourself in blender with some time and learning. Start small and go from there.

Awesome work! BTW I have designed and printed a couple of sheets at spotmodel. The colours are very bright and vibrant which I love. The downside is you cant use decal softeners and they dont stick very well sometimes. I used some future to make them stick better. Did you have any secrets that I may not know about for them? I may try another company next time.

Yep 1/24 thanks!

Ferrari 375 3d printed. The only part not printed is the windscreen. Wheels are modified from the Maserati Birdcage 3d files that Bill Cunningham designed(Thanks Bill!). Some cockpit parts are self designed. The tyres are printed in flexable resin and dyed black.

Awesome work! From my fairly short experience, if you don't have many "flat areas" on your body, printing flat is fine. This is especially true on those older sports cars that are curvy. Going by those print lines on the angled body, that is because it wasn't supported enough and moved slightly during printing. That is hard to understand considering you have a lot of supports already, but if you did add a few on the outside of the body, it would cure this problem (or maybe more on the inside). There is some evidence of this on the flat printed body if I am not mistaken as well. I actually learnt this when printing your Maserati files. Those Maserati wire wheels are amazing btw, Thanks for that!

For the original poster, I'm sure the suction would be massively reduced because of the filter. I don't use a filter, and have a brushless bathroom fan setup. The suction is good. After using this set up for years (maybe 6 or 7 years with all kinds of paint including lacquers and 2k clear), I feel a filter is not required.

I only buy white LED's and paint them whatever colour I want. Works well, and no need for resistors or anything when connected in parallel.

It goes both ways sadly. American kits cost a lot to import from the USA to New Zealand/Australia. But from japan, is ok for us.

I had something like this once, and just put a drop of 2k clear into the "hole" and let it cure. Then sanded it flat. Worked pretty well. If your compressor uses oil, this might be the reason why.

I always prime the bodies with Tamiya primer, but other parts - only depending on the colour of the plastic and where it is on the model.

I just hope the Tamiya stuff is actually aluminum, unlike the Hasegawa chrome vinyl which is quite hard to cut nicely.

Thats exactly what I do. One for colours, one for white, one for clears, one for black and one for metallic paints. This stops ugly black spots on a white paint job or shimmering flat colours. I buy them from Aliexpress for cheap.

Man, that looks amazing. Well done!

As these kits are taken from molds used for diecast cars, I am unsure if they will be changing the body shape at all. I know that the DDA Torana LJ has a rear spoiler a little too tall and the A9X is a little to low at the back as well (neither of these cars have been released yet as kits). I hope I am wrong! This Falcon looks cool to me anyway, and I have one coming to build.

Hi guys, As stated above, DDA has brought out some Ford Falcon kits. There are a few different versions of this kitset including stock and modded for the XY an XW Falcon. See online for more info. https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/blogs/from-the-desk-sms/first-look-at-the-new-1-24-xy-falcon-kit-from-dda

I print "regular" spoked wheels flat to the build plate on supports. That has worked great so far. I'm sure they can be printed at any angle with the correct amount of supports regardless but would take longer. For wire wheels like the Maserati birdcage wire wheels, I printed them vertical, 90 degrees to the build plate on supports. This is to stop the "wires" buckling during the print which did happen when I tried to print them flat. I learned from some other peoples experience on facebook. I'm still new to the 3d printing game, but these ways have worked well for me. Mike

I have been working on some flares and body kit items for this Starlet body by Andrey-Bezrodny. First time using blender. Working well. Work in progress.

My response was in regards to the refill bottle, which is the way to go. The pens are useless

My response was in regards to the refill bottle, which is the way to go. The pens are useless.

A year? you mean at least 5 years....

Awesome video mate, thanks so much for your help! I have designed some wheels/parts but never added thickness to a .obj car body file. Your video is very clear and easy to follow. Thanks! Mike