Michael jones

Thanks for the nice comments.

Thanks, the engine came with the car strangely. Its a curbside kit, but with engine. I did add some engine bay parts though..

Fluro yellow paint (not showing properly in pics), 2k clear, carbon fibre roof decal, lowered, Pegasus wheels.

Finished a couple of months ago, cut out bonnet, nail polish paint, with 2k clear. Asuka wheels/tyres. Lowered etc

It looks beautiful Peteski. It looks like you have got the technique down for the clear coat. A little side story - my models sat in a show for 2 days recently and were covered in dust by the end anyway. Even the judges would not be able to tell if the tiny dust particles were part of the model or not . Worse on white or light coloured cars. Normally my cars sit in a cabinet where they are only seen by me or my family. I do agree there are times where you must sand a specific spot to fix dust etc. But if you have to do the whole car, you probably need to change your technique and allow the paint to flow more whether by retarding the paint or by spraying closer/moving slower/more paint.

To be honest the above paint finishes are not perfect and do have dust etc in the paint. However for the amount of effort involved and lack of any risky sanding, they strike a good balance. Especially with 2k clear, you generally can just follow the instructions and as long as you get it wet enough on the final coat, you will get this kind of finish consistently.

I don't bother with sanding. The most important thing is to apply the base coat/clear in the best way possible to reduce orange peel. With lacquer this would be done with Mr Levelling thinner and also applying very wet without runs (very hard to do well) after some mist coats to tack it up. The photos below are 2k clear with no sanding - which is probably the easiest to get this kind of finish. So I guess my answer would be concentrate more on getting a good finish from the airbrush rather than the finishing products.

Often the BMF is too wide on models around the windows and does need a black background that looks like rubber as posted above. I just wonder if there is some narrow metal strips that could be used to make the metal window seals which could be glued on top of some semi gloss black painted window surrounds. That would look more real I believe, but curves might be a problem. Especially seems true with 50's/60's European sports/ GT cars.

Are you removing the paint or the paint and the primer? If it is the paint and primer try Tamiya primer, its expensive but very good stuff.

Future doesn't work on molotow chrome. Turns it to silver. Use E7 paints chrome sealer for that.

Yep - see review here:

Hi guys, I tested the E7 paints shine chrome on a couple of parts. I think it came out looking like a good match for stainless steel. I also cleared the parts with their chrome sealer with no dulling evident. The photo of the chassis, shows the shine chrome on the left and aluminium foil on the right.

Gidday, I left the sealer overnight to dry before I touched it. Yes the spoon was airbrushed, and the spoon had been painted chrome a long time ago so unsure how long you have to wait till sealer application. Mike

Yep the chrome does not rub off with the sealer laid down :). To be honest it looks much better than in the photo.

Hi guys, I thought I would share with you, the E7 paints chrome sealer which I have brush painted over Molotow Chrome. See photos below. If you look closely, you can just faintly see a horizontal line (just above my hand) in the photo. The lower half is clear coated with E7 chrome sealer and the top half is not clear coated. I would say it has retained 90% of the reflection. It actually got clearer as it dried. Started out a little milky. The stuff is relatively cheap to buy on ebay, around $8US for 20ml. Regards Mike

Which brake fluid did you use? Dot 4 Brake fluid has always worked for me (dot 3 is the most commonly used stuff for paint stripping so should work too). It even removes 2k clear after a little scrubbing.

Happened on my one, before I even removed it from the box. I hope you tested the engine cowl fitment before you did all that engine work, as it is really hard to make the cowl fit nicely, especially once paint is on, it gets even worse. A really bad design.

To me the pens are a waste of money. The refill is by far the best option. I use a small paint brush to apply, after putting a drop or two in a cup. Also if you do air brush it, thin it down a lot - sorry cant remember the exact ratio I used, but something like 2 or 3 (thinner)/1 (molotow). The paint doesn't go silver in the refill like it does in the pen. Maybe this has got something to do with air getting in the pens or maybe they are clogging up.

Call me crazy, but I don't really see any point of using Tamiya Acrylics for airbrushing. They need lacquer thinner or alcohol thinner to spray nicely, so may as well just use lacquer paint. Certainly not a true acrylic and very bad for your health just like lacquers.

Probably depends on the licensing details. I think Fujimi still have the licensing, as they have re-released the 250 GTO. Last year I was in Tokyo and saw the Hasegawa 250TR on the shelf in Yodabashi Camera. I should have bought it, but bought other kits that I wanted more. Luggage space was an issue :(. I also wonder where the tooling for the gunze 250GT has gone to? I have this model in my stash to start soonish.

Mr Mark Softer may help - the stuff is very strong, however if the decals are dry it might be hard to right them from here. I think its probably not so much the paint finish that is the problem here, but more the decal not conforming very well to the curved surfaces and the decals too thick too.

Gidday, its the Tamiya kit. I just removed the bumpers, added some Asuka wheels and some other minor details. I think there is a Gunze Sangyo Alfa kit which has the wide fenders etc. Would be a good kit to build I reckon.

The paint is Tamiya racing blue TS51 with 2k clear over the top thinned with mr levelling thinner. No polishing compounds used apart from a couple of areas of minor scratches caused during the foiling process.

Done

Good choices are what makes or breaks a company. Especially when choosing cars to model. That Lancia Delta S4 mentioned above, has a worldwide following with iconic Martini sponsorship. A very smart choice.