yh70

nice build

Welcome aboard Olivier.

just let your chrome paint dry good then clear coat in lite coats..but always test first since you never used this before & make sure you shake can well.

No primer is needed..spray light coats, let dry a few days then you can clear coat with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JCN91I?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Boil you some water then set the part in it for 30 seconds. take it out and see how flexible it is. if it feels flexible enough set some heavy weight on it and let it cool on its on..if its not re pete for one minuet that should do the trick. but do test it as i dont know hot thick your part is, so the time may vary. i have straighten parts doing this before..as far as a heat gun thats a BIG NO trust me you dont want to even go their i ruined some parts using one..as far as glue get you some CA (super glue) medium or thick or some good liquid like Plastruct Plastic Weld..

looking great so far...

go to YouTube you will find videos that will help you. just do a search on... how to fade paint a model car body...or... fade paint a model car body...

a cement mixer or a mobile crane would go really well with it since you have two steering axle's, but if it were mine i would go with the mixer...

you did a outstanding job..love the colors..i had did a dump truck with the same hood my way and added external air breathers.

thank you

been working with resin for many years and dont use nothing like that or any type of vacuum system. all i ever use is a regular old dust mask..

yes he does. and i talked to him to make sure its was the up to date one as he had moved..also he is not a full time caster so be ready to wait a couple months ..but still again you members that dont run Face Book are missing out of so so much of new parts and 3D kits. yall would be like kids in a candy store..lol..

but they not gonna set up a email address for the 1-2% that's on these Forums when their main business comes from Facebook.. ether you join or you miss out. and for all you that dont like FB yall missing out on a whole lot..

i can understand that Peter. we learn from our mistakes..

you go ahead and keep on believing that a primer is not needed to get a better bite or better paint job..lol.. if i could see one of your builds up close i bet i can see ever factory flaw in the plastic. you do know they prime real cars metal, fiberglass, plastic or what ever they made out of today.. priming a model is not only for the paint to have a better surface to stick to, the primer will show ever flaw in the plastic. we fix them, we sand, we prime again to make sure then we water sand and paint..

why not spend a few bucks $ and buy you some Bare Metal Foil if you want it that thin ..

the reason why was no primer..always prime so you have a base for the paint to stick to..

masking tape rubbed down well over decal if not been clear coat over, or use micro set. use a stiff brush and keep wetting the decal. after a while it will soften and you can start removing it..

yes he is..you can message him on his face book page..Plaskit Resin Resin

Awesome Build

funny he never show his finished windshield or side-glass.. these guys make these video's but never show finished product...dont make no since at all..

i have not used that brand, but have used the testors with no problem and many more brands and find them to be all about the same..did you clear coat the decal after the ink dried ? if you did not then that was the problem..all ink jet decal paper has to be clear coated after printed.

this is what i use. or you can also use Elmer's glue all.(used it for years)...if you get any on the clear part, a wet brush in warm water will take it right off..

yes

i dont know what the black fork boots look like, but if you could replace them they sell yellow rubber and vinyl..just do a Google search. i dont think prime and paint black rubber will work. i have never heard anyone doing it with any success